Miss Habanita / Miss Molinard
Molinard (1994)

A sweet aroma of peach,citron and raisin.in today's perfume market,the pairing of this much fruit is rare but it was very common in the 80's and 90's this is the same type of sweet fruity that you get from such fragrances as Chloe Narcisse, and Oscar de La Renta Volupte. this is like a Sophia Grojsman fragrance! this is the upperclass lady scent,and it smells absolutely ridiculous on those who can't at least play the role.Miss Habanita is a feminine fragrance which smells unmistakably classy and elegant but festive.Miss Habanita is a classy lady in a red dress,sipping peach champagne at a Christmas party.

It opens with a nectarines peach and raisin thought juicy and boozy.they're abated by a desiccated feel.the woods provide such wonder that it keeps the fruits from being an edible accord.the vanilla gives it a creaminess,a sweetness.here the fruit is not the sugary gourmand fruit in today's perfumes.this is real concentrated fruit juice and more like actual champagne or wine,a fruit cocktail.totally it's dry like the 70s chypres and i remember those perfumes provide no consolation for women in their astringent and humid accords.but don't get me wrong,those were magnificent structures.it is perfect for chic luncheons,cocktail parties,galleries and informal dinners.

After trying it on paper, wearing Miss H was a big surprise.
On paper, a note of milky peach - backed by a ylang-ylang bouquet - is very prominent.
It doesn't tie in with the chypre base, and weird notes like cardboard and oily biscuit find their way through.

But on skin, an acid fruitiness tarts up the peach and the base notes coalesce into a roasted spicy-woodiness, which may not have been the intenion - this is a dark and part-used sample, and clearly a vintage specimen. But the effect is still as welcome as it's unexpected.

I have to say I find the milky peach a bit sickly, and it strikes me as a blatant hook. But when Miss Habanita is worn - and the peach note blends with the mix - it becomes a bit more palatable.
The drydown is peachy iris with moss and biscuity musk, the interesting burnt notes having faded away.

As a peachy chypre this is not very original (see Mitsouko 1919) but it goes it's own way, and makes a decent job of it (sickly peach or no).

3*-

Vintage carded sample

Oh,I really like this! Opens with a warm burst of caramel, something spicy, woody? Not overly sweet.

Is this what they call a flanker?

I can't wait to test it on paper and fabric and discover it's other magical properties. Very nice winter fragrance all in all.