This reminds me of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme. I love vintage Miss Dior (now referred to as Miss Dior Originale), and I can be skeptical of post-oak moss driven modern perfumery, but this perfume works for me. It smells modern, it smells like something that can be bought in a mall, which it is, it smells more synthetic than natural, and it smells great: a strong, long-lasting modern patchouli.
Update: This has started smelling like tobacco to me, in a good way.
Here's another perfume about which I've come around, three years on and with many many perfumes under my belt (plus a fairly serious Fruitchouli vision quest and with a year-plus-long reappraisal of Post-Angel fruity orientals). I initially felt disappointed in Miss Dior Le Parfum for many of the same reasons I like it now. It's a relatively elegant and measured take on the same idea that powers the much more boisterous Mauboussin (which I love)--sort of like Dior took a page from Chanel's Coco Mad and Allure, trying to beat these upstart oriental fruities at their own game.
Chanel's phenomenal success with Coco Mad and Allure probably had much to do with excellent timing as well as a sensible marketing strategy--i.e., *give the new perfume a different name*--as anything else. Dior stumbled on both of these fronts, futzing around with Miss Dior flankers for so long that they almost have missed the boat, before finally betting the farm on Miss Dior Cherie (similar diminutive ring as "Coco Mademoiselle"--just saying) and doing the Dior Reformulation Shuffle with Miss Dior proper, which eventually got Miss Dior Cherie's formula--not confusing at all, is it? Especially since Miss Dior Le Parfum is not, in fact, a parfum formulation of any Miss Dior that has existed before or since . . . as far as I can tell.
I can't tell if all this renaming is a bit of clever misdirection or if it demonstrates a problem with Dior's creative direction. In my less charitable moments, I tend toward the latter. After all, Hedi Slimane's keen sensibility brought us timeless beauties like Dior Homme, but that clarity of vision hasn't translated into the perfumes that Dior markets to women, at least not in the 21st century. Perhaps the problem lies with the crazy turnover at the brand since John Galliano's departure. We haven't seen a new pillar fragrance since Dior Addict, which hit the market 16 years ago--although, if Sauvage represents the overall direction of the fragrance division, I'm inclined to see it as a blessing. (Was Sauvage supposed to reflect Raf Simon's techno/minimalist aesthetic? It sure looked like Dior doing Bleu de Chanel--Coco Mad/Miss D Cherie all over again?). (One last parenthetical remark: I guess we're safe from Dior's doing some kind of basic bitch vanilla bomb a la Guerlain and even Mugler, seeing as they already have Addict).
Reasons aside, Dior has focused its energy on reimagining and reformulating rather than breaking new ground for customers who buy feminine fragrances. Considering this is a house with a stunning fragrance legacy that includes Diorella, Dune and Poison (three dictionary definition desert-island fragrances), it has been hard to adjust my expectations. The designer game, such as it is these days, seems more about polish and refinement than about big statements. I guess the stakes are too high when LVMH pulls the strings. As a perfume that plays it so safe that it risks irrelevance, Miss Dior Le Parfum nevertheless succeeds on its own (very limited) terms. It manages to pull the DNA of Addict's vanilla into Cherie's fruity theme, and thus forms a bridge from a millennial-bait candy accord to a (relatively) more mature perfume that I guess is now as crucial to Dior's history as the greatest hits from the past.
Miss Dior Le Parfum doesn't do anything that hasn't been done before, but it's a graceful trip on the fruitchouli train, a ride that can be kind of crazy. The mandarin at the top is so sweet that it's hard to consider it a structural element like other citrus openings, but it's attractive, and it transitions smoothly to a rose/vanilla duo that reminds me of Tocade--in fact, the whole composition with its citrus-vanilla-rose feels a lot like something Maurice Roucel might have authored, only turned down a few notches and with all the quirks buffed out. More patchouli might have added some edge to the proceedings; but, at the end of the day, MDLP leaves you with a lush, glowing, floral vanilla that vastly eclipses Mon Guerlain's weirdly depressing greyish rendition. Is it worth the price Dior charges for the experience? I can think of a lot of things I'd rather do with a C-note. But I enjoy keeping a few samples around, and I might consider a cheapie damaged bottle if our summer continues in its current sweltering direction, because there's something about it that seems friendly towards a suntan, a pedicure and couple of cocktails on a restaurant patio.
My previous review from summer 2015 is below:
Alas, Miss Dior (in your 2012 incarnation), I really wanted more. I hoped for a lush, glowing orange/rose/amber along the lines of the old-formulation J'Adore. I was also most curious about how the promised vanilla and patchouli would figure in to the composition. You were so great on paper.
Whatever my expectations, in person Miss Dior comes across as a straightforward sweet fruity floral fragrance, albeit one made from pretty good materials. Its sweetness seems to come from honey rather than sugar--pleasant enough, as these things go--but after a striking honeyed orange start, the rest of this fragrance feels confused. What follows is neither a striking chord of rosy-ambery-vanillic sweetness or a clear development of these stages. I do think I smell violets, which aren't listed in Basenotes' pyramid. A little trace of very fruity patchouli is occasionally discernible, but in the end, this fragrance seems to transition from orange to vanilla without much in between. I love Creamsicles, but I leave it up to the reader to decide how much she wants to pay to wear their scent.
I'm not really sure why Dior chose to release this particular fragrance in Parfum formulation. Its heavy concentration weighs down this ebullient fragrance, and masks the rosiness at its heart. The overall effect is a little like a young girl's wearing too much makeup. That said, the opening is *very* pretty, and lasts longer than usual--the only benefit I can find to this being a Parfum rather than an EdP.
While the scent is to die for. I have to spray and spray to get the concentration on my body that I personally need with perfume. This leads me to often forget to take my time with miss Dior, and go to the more heavy scents that I own.
This is definitely an early morning scent that should be replaced with other perfume as the day goes on.
Yes, an expertly blended combination of fruity/floral notes, resins and balsams in which the note of mandarine provides a really dynamic and "carefree" orangy top side well connected with indolent rose, mild spices, a touch of earthiness and probably bergamot (affording complexity and refinement). Overall is assembled in to a bright hyper-feminine accord gradually encompassed by a mellow embrace of "chyprey" amber and vanillic balminess. The rosey-hesperidic accord sets down a sort of classical background connected to a glorious chypre french tradition. Rose, amber and patchouli perfectly merge in to a really elegant sweet glorious accord (never heavy or overly "loaded"). The balance is perfect since the dry down is warmer but still fruity, freshly floral and barely soapy. Miss Dior Le parfum is not a masterpiece but a modern versatile (and "polished") floral-chypre with a refined patchouli, a chic aura and a sensual amber backbone.
A delightful trail of undeniable magnetism.I simply love this perfume. MISS DIOR LE PARFUM is a distinctive and luscious without being cloying.a blend of florals for a young girl's whimsy with a sophistication that pleases the mature woman.this perfume is a great mixture of mandarin,rose and patchouli blended together to create this lovely delicious scent.it is better than MISS DIOR(NEW) and sure to get a lot of compliments with this one.sweet,rich,chic,modern, charming,evocative,feminine and sppealing.
This fresh floral scent presents a delicious mix of fresh mandarin orange over a sweet heart of rose.finally patchouli,vanilla and amber bring up a warm base as the drydown to this enticing and adorable mixture.in fact it has a rich dry down ooze femininity and draw compliments constantly.this is a strong enough sent to wear going out at night,but subtle enough to wear to work or out during the day can be used daily or for special events.a great gift for valentine day.highly recommended.
The marriage of the depth chords patchouli and vanilla to a somewhat unreal orange produces an off effect at the heart of this perfume. It's as if it were a spinning top that has entered its wobbling phase before it will roll over and lie on its side, except here it is doomed to wobble on and on.
The rest is pretty assured if not terribly original a soft luxurious blended quality, demure florals, edible sweetness the mainstays of countless recent feminines'. Once the arrhythmia at its heart calms down, one is left with a pretty nondescript mushed up sweetness.