Mimosa
Molinard (1994)

Molinard – Mimosa (1934)

This review is for the original Mimosa release in 1934, sixty years prior to the 1994 re-formulation, and from the Ebay releases on the side of this page, it would seem it has been re-formulated yet another time after the original release.

Mimosa has always been an elusive scent for me. Over the years I have tried dozens of lotions, scents, soaps, etc., all claiming to represent the mimosa flower, and no two have smelled alike. I am reviewing pure parfum from the original 1934 release.

Obviously, a feminine floral, this brings to mind, although it does not imitate at all, Guerlain's famous Apres L'Ondee, which uses similar notes (violet, heliotrope, orris) to create the aura of a garden after a spring rain.

It is certainly captivating, sweet, yet restrained. The anise and violet notes create a beautiful tapestry to support the mimosa, which I can now happily say DOES resemble one of my many product explorations, the Claus Porto Mimosa Soap I love.

The structure of the original parfum is fascinating. Recommended for all lovers of mimosa, violet and orris in perfumery. This 1934 original is still available from private collectors on the Internet (how I obtained my decant), and well worth seeking out.

Suggested note tree, as a definitive one does not exist:

Galbanum, Ylang, Violet, Tarragon, Anise
Mimosa, Heliotrope, Orris, Violet Leaf
Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk

Form the start the mimosa, a somewhat fragile floral, is present, and very well executed. In the drydown more floral notes appear, mainly iris, but also iris and a touch of ylang ylang, the latter providing the mix with some very restrained unobtrusive gentle sweetness.

The base gains a bit more depth, with tonka and white musk mainly involved, with just a bare hint of bright powderiness towards the end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity is five hours on my skin.

A lovely, light, initially slightly fragile gentle floral for spring. 3.25/5.