Macassar Oil was a frankly gross invention. It was a mix of vegetable oils that men would plaster on their hair, thinking it was a conditioner. But it was also perfumed, and when Rowland and Sons registered Macassar Oil as a trademark in the 1870's, and then started advertising it all over England, it became probably the first mass market perfume for men.
It became so prevalent that wives and mothers would crochet antimacassars, a kind of doily that was draped over the back of setee's and armchairs to stop their men's greasy barnet staining the furniture.
There is an old looking recipe on the internet for home made Macassar oil, presumably based on the original formula. It runs like this : half a pint of bear oil [!], orange flower, jasmin, rose, carnation, bergamot, rosewood, ambergris, cloves and musk.
Macassar Rochas was also a concoction of woods, spices, florals and amber, but it didn't leave an oil slick on everything it touched. It reminds me of ashtrays, tea cosy's and ticking clocks on the mantlepiece; and those bloody doilys...
A niche version of Bogart OMS. OMS is sharper and bitter. Galbanum in OMS is the culprit. Macassar is mellower, I guess they replaced galbanum with artemisia but I do smell some galbanum in Macassar.
Macassar has better development and drydown.
The bitterness in Macassar comes from "leather" vs Galbanum of OMS.
Both were released in 1980 and had the same perfumer. I guess Roger Pellegrino was just being lazy :)
The scent pyramid that's listed here is for the second edition flacons that came in a black box, that formula smells different then the first editons and is much lighter in color, the first edition juice is dark golden brown unlike the second edition which is dark yellow. The first editons are the only way to go although there was a slight reformulation to 'brighten' the composition which took place around 1986, that color of juice is a tad lighter with less leather, far more patchouli and musk but still just as highly pleasurable to adorn but has the advantage of far better note separation.
This scent doesn't belong from 1980 at all, Macassar doesn't smell like an 80's creation, this perfume is way ahead of it's time and is über elegant with pure class. Extremely unusual smelling, intoxicating and one of a kind that kinda resembles Chanel's Coco Noir to a degree with some added tobacco but a guy's version of course, never came across anything like this before, very dark and honestly makes you feel like a million bucks. This is a top notch perfume, you can just feel it when you're wearing it from beginning to end. There's nothing off putting about Macassar, it gets better and better. The opening hour is a tad weird and 'fuzzy' but after that when the patch and jasmine kick in, wowzers, can't explain it one bit. This is the best perfume from the 80's that I've experienced, ever, madly in love with this stuff but then again, I'm a patchouli whore. I could seriously write a book about this, Macassar blows my mind and I've smelled so much in my life.
This is a patchouli and leather perfume that has been executed perfectly, masterpiece material. The combination of jasmine and patchouli run throughout which are the main players underneath of oakmoss, musk, leather, amber, sandalwood and macassarwood, it's extremely difficult to describe. There's this to die for soapiness from the jasmine that's amazing beyond words which cuts through everything and balances this perfume. There is a phenomenal amber accord from the heart notes until the long, long drydown that recreates this sightly sweet olfactory illusion but the beauty of this scent is the jasmine/patch combo, beautiful beyond words. There's this very deep something in the base that hits the nose in just the right spot that's almost animalic in feel. Dries down to a soft white musk, suede, macassar wood, jasmine and patchouli on the most beautiful base of real oakmoss and castoreum that's as smooth as velvet, it's indescribable, really. I wish that I had the know how to describe this scent properly but I do not, the complexity of Macassar stumps me.
I've read all of the reviews everywhere on this masterful blend and am quite confused. Macassar is not a beast, yes it has amazing sillage and qualifies as strong if you bathe in it but this is elegance at its best, very well mannered and projects nicely and this is coming from an individual who is very weary about their perfume being too strong. There's nothing macho hairy chested about this, nothing, it's as smooth as butter with panache and quality that's to die for. Macassar is completely wearable and silky smooth. There's no gorilla in a suit here, none, sorry. Another amazing thing is that if you can get an atomized flacon, the atomizer itself is very well controlled so you can adjust your application accordingly from a tiny spritz to a full on wide spray. Two sprays for me and it's perfect for an easy 12 hours. Another thing is that you can always feel this scent, you don't become anosmic to it due to this composition being incredibly complex so it's always changing.
Superb lasting power that survives showers, honest. I've had this concoction come back to life again under Kouros of all perfumes which smelled like Kouros with suede underneath, in fact the wood in this perfume is so creamy in the far drydown that it comes across as oud once it's hit the far drydown. I could've sworn that there was some oud in this mix secretly, the wood is too creamy in the drydown with a wee bit of funk as well and if you've experienced the far drydown of some real agarwood then you'll know exactly what I'm talking about here. You really gotta be down with patchouli and leather to like this scent or you're going to hate it. I for one understand the hype and get the astronomical asking prices which are worth every penny in my opinion. The flacons themselves, atomized or splash are unique, handsome and a pleasure to look at.
I fell so hard for this masterpiece that I've sourced every vintage flacon that I could get my hands on which cost me a small fortune in the end and I have no regrets whatsoever, except for the money I've spent.
This smells like a combination of woods and bright florals. The woods smell well done. For the florals, I'm not surprised to see geranium listed. Geranium seems to add interesting character to fragrances. I also feel like this fragrance may be using a light touch of animalic fixatives to give the fragrance depth and complexity.
Oh my God this a killer!!!!!
The opening is overwhelming, savage, gives you headaches.
You can still smell it on your skin after 24 hours and this is not a joke.
When i have received my first bottle, it came in a nylon bag because it was leaking a bit. There were 2 drops of this perfume in the bag, not more.
The smell was so intense that i had to wash the bag with water again and again before throwing it away. The next day when i opened the garbage the smell was still there!!
Anyway, after the first i would say 2-3 hours of very intensive smell, follows a long phase of pepper/leather/woody pleasure.
This is probably the most virile, intense, masculine perfume i have ever smelled till today.
From me it gets 10/10 points