Macaque
Zoologist Perfumes (2016)

One of Zoologist's better fragrances. The citrus and florals are immediate, but not obnoxious, and the drydown is quite pleasant. This isn't a particularly strong scent, and it lasts fewer than six hours; it would have rated higher for me if it had. 4/5




Reviewed: 2021 "Yuzu Edition"

Baseeta01/14/17 10:09

This is a joy ride, and I've been wearing it and wearing it and I still feel my words are inadequate, my knowledge of notes lacking. It starts out with a sharp sour apple and what I can only guess is galbanum green. This party quickly settles down into what my inexperienced nose thought was pear or banana or some other soft, lightly scented fruit, but now I'm guessing is jasmine tea mixed with green tea. Frankinsence adds smoke to this, rosewood and cedar keep it grounded, a touch of ylang ylang adds a floral, and drop of honey adds a bit of sweetness. I feel so unworthy and unqualified to write about such a well crafted scent, a scent that shows you so many faces before it settles down to something so beautiful and refined that you will sleep peacefully with your wrist pressed to your nose.

Macaque won't turn heads, but it really is quite nice. Green tea and sour apple are very clear, and are wrapped in a blanket of flowers and herbal notes. I can't say I've ever smelled galbanum before so it's hard for me to know how much it dominates those herbal notes. But there is something familiar here I can't quite put my finger on, so maybe it's that. I don't tend to like oakmoss but it works here in a small amount.

It smells altogether very familiar. There's also something cooling about the mix, when I take a close sniff, it feels like it's gently soothing and opening up my sinuses like Vick's VapoRub. Compared to Panda 2017 it's by far the better apple/tea scent. Much more natural feeling. Not a favorite but it's pleasant. Easily one of the most wearable in the collection, while still not boring.

I immediately get light florals from the initial spray. Then as I sniff closer to my skin, I get hit with a sweaty funkiness. This could be the ylang ylang, of which I am not a fan.

An hour or so later, there's a "sunny" and drier quality, while at the same time it manages soapy, grassy notes. The funk is still there, though much faded.

Overall, it's a very pleasant, light fragrance. On my skin, a single spray to each wrist is definitely enough to keep it wafting up for several hours, as I work at my computer.

Update - after about 6-7 hours I'm left with a mainly sour note, although the scent as a whole is barely there.

Zoologist – Macaque (2016)

A blast of galbanum and oud at the outset, dominating all remaining 11 ingredients in this creation. Sadly, as with all scents containing oud, (a note I loathe), it dominates throughout. I do get occasional sweet fruity green notes (the green apple no doubt), which waft above my arm. Thankfully the oud remains on my skin and not in the atmosphere above it, so if I just sit quietly, I don't have to endure it. Cedar in the olfactory shape of shaved pencil dryly drifts up on occasion.

Still, the green effect is not that unique or special here. Galbanum, when used judiciously, can be marvelous (Weil de Weil, Givenchy III), but here it seems shy and retiring. It might have garnered a neutral rating had they just left out the oud, but no matter, it's here at the center and must be dealt with.

My second sample from this house and both experiences are negative.

I was indifferent to this when I first smelled it perhaps a year or so ago, and thought I'd come around to it again today. I felt like I went on a bit of an adventure with a truly wonderful fragrance-I didn't give this one the credit it deserves.

Opens with a slightly tart apple-woody aroma, rich with white oud. It's slightly musky (lighter than many of the other offerings from this line) and green-the galbanum is with the scent during all phases, as it should be, adding lush green imagery to the scent. I can envision a Macaque sitting tranquilly among the bamboo, airy and light. As it dries down, sweetness from the honey and the tea add a nice, deep richness to the overall scent. All of Zoologist's scents are complex, and this one is no different-but for me, this is all about balance. Not too light, and not too heavy-a sort of zen mixture. The tartness and sweetness combine throughout for a wonderful combination, a true balancing act that works to Macaque's benefit.

This is very, very good. I feel like this scent may be easily overlooked in the Zoologist catalog: it doesn't make as much of a statement from the get-go as others. However, there is a wonderful story here for anyone to enjoy, that progresses and gets deeper as time goes on. Sillage is good (just past arm's length) and longevity is very good: 8 hours on my skin, which is excellent for a spring/summer scent.

Add this to your collection, you will NOT be disappointed.

9/10