Ma Griffe (original) 
Carven (1946)

Average Rating:  45 User Reviews

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Ma Griffe (original) by Carven

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About Ma Griffe (original) by Carven

People & Companies

Fragrance House
Jean Carles
Jacques Bocquet
Packaging / Bottle Design

Ma Griffe (original) is a women's perfume launched in 1946 by Carven

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

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Reviews of Ma Griffe (original) by Carven

There are 45 reviews of Ma Griffe (original) by Carven.

Nothing surpasses the EDT original formula, in my opinion. Crisp, green, elegant, unique, slightly floral, slightly powdery. The reformulation is good, but not AS good as this original. An immediate lift when sprayed on, and appropriate at all times. I do not detect cinnamon in this, but if it is there, it seems to be in a very small quantity. Overall,2 thumbs up. I have to say, I LOVE the house of Carven

One look in her face sufficed to bind your heart to her forever". She is a real french woman with graceful beauty and charm of manner. She is a lady that changes between a hot and cold feeling she is classy, refined, a surface. Of calm precedes her. She is a goddess, she doesn't follow the rules, she's makes them and her beauty is like a paintings. This lady is Juliette Récamier.

A green floral with chypre ingredients. It's an independent, courageous and forever stylish fragrance. The scent opens with a burst of intoxicating green notes that is so fresh and clean. Gently wrapped in the comfort of a fragrance oozing the tenderness of iris, the delicate sweetness of orrisas that mixes with the rose and ylang ylang for a scent that is sophisticated and elegant. The lily of the valley here is just a reminder of how enchanting a green scent can be, with it's alluring spring call. The base is deeper and warmer with oakmoss at max, with clean vetiver and musk. A timeless, dependable classic.

Despite its hard tonality, this aldehydic-smooth green chypre has buoyancy in the head and a charming muguet heart.
Appearing just as Europe was getting back on its feet after World War Two, Ma Griffe was (surprisingly to our noses) the first teenscent, one of many new shapes that filled the air with optimism and hope.

The original formula used prefabricated bases and without them, modern versions of the juice are like green blobs lacking in finesse. Get the vintage if you can - but don't expect to wear it much, it's from another era and smells like it.
But if you do want to try it, any concentration works better on bare skin - like an old fashioned dabbing perfume.

I found this for twenty euro in a car boot sale in Paris. The price on the package is still in francs so that puts it at a pre-2000 vintage. It's a splash bottle. It makes me feel like a classy lady. It makes me feel like red lipstick and clicky heels and a fur collar. Elegance, maturity, sensuality. It wears close to the skin. It's soft enough to wear for dinner out, enticing enough to wear to bed. It's silk.

A spicy, floral, dry and fragrant chypre with a subtle leather accord.

One of the great scents created in the 20th century.

The name translates to "My Mark" or "My Stamp." It is young, crisp and fresh.

Turin gave it 3 stars, named it a "green chypre," and saluted its "Miss Moneypenny spinsterish loveliness."

Barbara Herman found it "more wearable than either Cabochard or Bandit."

It was once dubbed "the prostitute's perfume." The combination of cinnamon and galbanum gives it a bright, crisp green note.

Top notes: Galbanum, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Citronnel
Heart notes: Gardenia, Jasmine, Ylang, Rose, Orris, Muguet
Base notes: Cinnamon, Tonka, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Styrax, Oakmoss, Musk, Benzoin, Labdanum

Wonderful for women of any age, who are young at heart.

Pursuing vintage perfume has its difficulties. Date? Formulation? Provenance? Concentration? At the heart of the matter is a question that can be asked of every perfume, whether vintage or current. It's a variation on the 'does one ever swim in the same river twice' chestnut: does one ever smell the same perfume twice?  Is my new bottle of Mitsouko the same perfume as my last bottle? Is Mitsouko Mitsouko? It's a high-school philosophy survey course sort of dilemma.

The problem with vintage perfume has to do with expectation. What do you expect from your ebay perfume purchase?  If it is a greater authenticity than a contemporary bottle offers you, be prepared to smell the disappointment.

Ma Griffe is my instructor on the topic. I've smelled 3 vintage versions made in the 1970s to 1990s and they all smell largely the same to me. Powdery and buttery, green but vague. Weak, indistinct, uninteresting.

This is the powerhouse green locomotive from 1947?  The legend that paved the way for the commanding green chypres of the mid-late 20th century? Of course it isn't. I'll never really know what the old girl smelled like in her heyday. I wasn't there in 1947, and to smell a bottle of Ma Griffe in 2014 that might have been produced in the 1970s can't compare. If you're chasing the authentic experience, like a junkie chasing that first high, it'll feel like a hint of a memory. Like a dream at the tip of your mind's tongue.

So what to do?  Consensus is that the current Ma Griffe is rubbish and vintage is unreliable at best. Buying vintage doesn't usually give you the option of sampling or testing a perfume in advance of purchase. It's a stab in the dark.

So Ma Griffe is dead to me. It is the plight of perfumery and the perfume lover that over the course of time even iconic, seminal fragrances will go away. We blame IFRA compliance for reformulation, but forget to consider that the loss of past perfumes is inherent in the form. I enjoy the discussion of perfumery and the language that it prompts us to create. As for Ma Griffe, I'll have to be content with viewing from the sidelines of the debate. I'll never smell the perfume.

Still, it's worth it to have the discussion, don't you think?

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