I've always liked Lumiere Noire. Why? It touches onto enough vintagish steps to satisfy the grumpy they don't make em in me. Those are rose and artemisia and a phat musk w a little animalics.
It has a classic feeling without feeling dated ( to be honest it must be to the blue crowd anyway).
It see it working nicely for a colder month signature for someone dabbling already in come hither vintage 80's.
Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian (2009) is one of the debut creations from the house when it was launched independently by the perfumer and his business partner Marc Chaya, and was composed before the brand was added to the LVMH portfolio some years later. MFK has never been a house beholden to mainstream market trends, but the penchant for excessively polite citrus and white floral scents the brand would seemingly develop with its Aqua line did not exist until the LVMH acquisition. The earliest creations of Francis Kurkdjian were very personal, and this was niche perfumery on its own terms before anyone realized how huge a market there was for next-level luxury like niche perfume represents. For this reason, Lumière Noire pour Homme comes across gleefully out-of-step with fashion in a similar manner to APOM pour Homme (2009), which launched alongside it as the -other- masculine choice at the time. The success of the unisex Aqua Universalis (2009) would set MFK down a citric path while the two morning/evening cologne entries would get re-invisioned several times as eau de parfums of characters now identifiable with the brand, but this was entirely unlike them. Lumière Noire pour Homme is a rose/patchouli oriental chypre, but is fundamentally unlike the classic rose patchouli combo seen throughout perfume history, and this is due to a healthy injection of artemisia in the heart. Lumière Noire pour Homme is also the rare example of an animalic fragrance from a perfumer known for his clean, rounded blending, making it one for the old-schoolers to check out.
The opening of Lumière Noire pour Homme is a big blast of artemisia and rose, with the quantity of artemisia being on par with something like the powerhouse Quorum by Antonio Puig (1982). Those who know this plant will recall that it is a distant relative to wormwood, which makes for a peculiar medicinal herbal vibe people raised on mostly synthetic perfume styles possibly wouldn't know. Artemisia is the main way Kurkdjian makes the rose of Lumière Noire pour Homme masculine, alongside a heart of cumin, nutmeg, and cardamom. The slightly dirty and earthy midsection sets up for the smooth patchouli, labdanum, and musk base of the scent, and although I can't quite peg what type of animalic is present due to the blending, I can feel the subtle growl all the same. No, this isn't a rose/patch civet bomb like something sold to men in the 1980's, but the subversive patchouli and musk tandem working with the immaculately clean blending of the perfumer himself is an addictive juxtaposition for those who love esoteric perfumes. I find this mixture to be very much attractive and suggest this to be worn only in the bedroom, but your opinion of where to use Lumière Noire pour Homme may differ. Sillage is intense but this is no projection beast, nor is it suitable outside unless you're using it on a cold day when the naughty parts are concealed by a brisk chill. I pretty much all but spelled out this as a romantic fragrance with unisex potential and great longevity, but depending on how you feel about rose, this may be more of a regular use perfume.
Soon after the release of Lumière Noire pour Homme and APOM pour Homme, Maison Francis Kurkdjian set down furthering the aqua range and toyed a bit more with animalics in Cologne pour le Soir (2009), and Absolu pour le Soir (2010) before mostly removing them in the final iteration of Grand Soir (2016) some years later. From there on out, the main vibe of MFK has been shiny, rounded, immaculate blending on the heavier scents (includng the oud range) and transparent, ephemeral, sparkling construction on the lighter ones. As a whole, Lumière Noire pour Homme still feels every bit synthetic due to the processed vibe Kurkdjian seems to favor, but the minimalist/futurist aesthetic no doubt carried over from Kurkdjian's time as a designer perfumer is bolstered with attention to detail, a modicum of creative freedom, and performance not typically found in a designer, making Lumière Noire pour Homme come across like what a scent produced by Calvin Klein might be if they had a niche/prestige range. For those of you not enamoured by that comparison, I understand, but this is for me a sexy marriage of opposing values I can get behind. One word of advice though: if you go seeking Lumière Noire pour Homme, you may have to deal directly with an MFK boutique or their website as they typically don't allow distribution of their older releases to retail stores which stock the brand. Thumbs up.
The men's MFK line has recently caught my attention. Lumiere Noir is not one I would normally tend to even try, but right now I am very glad that I did. Lumiere Noir has become my most worn cold weather scent so far this season.
This herbal-chypre EdT is strong yet not overpowering and the notes of artemisia (mugwort), cumin/spices, rose and patchouli blend well together to give a calming and relaxing scent that is very long lasting. Artemisia comes off as most prominent but once the scent settles down, the rose and patchouli come through every now and again, accented by the cumin. The rose is definitely not floral, but more like the rose you'd expect to find in Le Labo's Rose 31 or Penhaligon's The Duke. Overall the scent is unlike other artemisia-rich scents such as Puig's legendary Quorum and Caron's Yatagan (my least favourite).
As far as sizes go, the 70ml bottle may seem small, but only a little is required for each application which goes a long way. 2-4 sprays in the morning last well into the evening, making this a 'dumb-reach' for me. Top marks, MFK - well done!
Lumière Noire pour Home is bright floral with a burnt spice edge to open up the top notes. The combination of key ingredients yields an all new something unique that quietly distills the bright opening into a cool soft rose patchouli. The floral is hardly recognizable as rose but nonetheless provides a radiant presence that keeps a wide open attitude for the first few hours that is not soft and never sultry. I would not compare this to other rose scents as it doesn't really declare a rose essence until the spice - mugwort? - begins to wear off and a light pure rose essence with a touch of patchouli drifts outward and becomes the central character. What an extravagant and superlative blend by Mr. Francis Kurkdjian. The perfume after an hour or so is distinctive, well mannered, persistently positive with a touch of mystery and private uniqueness - Lumiere Noire.
Soapy, powdery and spicey with a good amount of cinnamon. Reminds me of Boucheron Jaipur Homme but I do like this better, much better. It's not as harsh or aggressive but this also makes it lean more feminine. The rose note is there but it's really fighting everything else going on to be smelled.
Overall, a solid fragrance that should be loved by some. Feels best for cooler weather.
This is truly awful although perhaps I am biased as it reminds me disconcertingly so of how the elderly cleaning lady smelt who used to swirl around the house noisily with the vacuum cleaner when I was a child.
Cheap perfume and bleach. Phew. She herself was a kind cheerful soul so its not by negative association. This is just dreadful but look at the ingredients. Patchouli and mugwort or whatever the spices added to the Rose...And to think you pay a premium for this.
Cheap 80s perfume and bleach. Enough said.