Aromatic/spicy orange, weird leather and soothed galbanum.
This fragrance starts out soon traditionally herbal, minty, boise/camphoraceous, aromatic/spicy and with a sheer orange/bay leaf accord. This is a typically O'Driu' approach we can partially admire in some other compositions of the brand as well (Laurhum, more complex and one of my absolute favorite, Linfedele 1004 and others). Yes the juice in the vial looks with a wonderful golden/ambery colour. The fragrance, despite its sharp, classic chypre/aromatic and almost refreshing beginning starts soon to morph in to something warmer, dustier and smoother due to a plain soft myrrh/oakmoss/galbanum/incense performance. In this phase (just a bunch of minutes from the first spray) i detect in the air something weird, a sort of cool and almost gassy "powdery rubber" (slightly boots polish type) which smells enough different from a typical leathery vibe. Anyway, i detect this feel just because i struggled to detect the listed (and to me un-traceable, at least in its classic texture) leather. The weird "leathery" feel (may be slightly influenced by the styrax) anyway recedes in a while under my profane nose and some floral notes start to emerge from the yet smoother wake while i still hardly detect a classic leathery touch for real. In this phase i mostly notice an orangy bay leaf/myrtle chord, may be mint, soft jasmine, dark galbanum, some dusty/shadowy spices and balsams indeed. The elements smells extremely balanced and in harmony as the sound from a symphonic orchestra. Along the trip the juice (rather lined out in its olfactory linearity) goes changing in consistence and so soothing down towards something darker, more rounded and smokey (i talk about toasted tobacco and faint smoke) while my humble nose is unfortunately unable to catch leather and incense (or better i detect the latter under the "shape" of dark/dusty spices). The dry down is encompassing, soothed, rather sweet and woodsy with the standout spicy orange/bay leaf/aromatic herbs background. Linfedele 1003 smells probably more modern than many others from the same brand and does remind me also slightly some Peety's nuances (just Linfedele 1003 is more in line with the previous juices of the brand, in a sharper, less "dirty burnt/sweet" and far less dense/animalic way).
Pros: Silky galbanum flavoured by citric herbs, spices and "simil leather".
Cons: Any in particular."
Dark and Grey! First of all, I would say I've never smelt something like this before! not at all! The opening is sharp and strong resinous smell with strong leather and incense and some oranges all together! This brutal combination creates a very heavy and dark smell. It's smoky and resinous and at the same time slightly sweet and fruity. It does have kind of ashy powdery smell too. I know it sounds crazy but ...... Imagine yourself in a funeral! There are lots of trees surrounding the the place that you currently are and you can smell strong woods and resins in the air. Instead of suit, you're wearing a leather jacket and an orange based fragrance but one of those heavy ones not one of the fresh summery ones. There are lots of incense burning around you. The body ashes is in the vase and after some praying a guy opens the vase and let the ashes touch the winds and dance with it! now you can smell the ashes too! It's something like that! In the mid that ashy smell become stronger and beside the other notes create a very ashy, dark and strange smell. You will have this scent for about 3-4 hours and then that ashy smell starts to decay and now you can smell again the oranges and also there are some floral notes playing a sad music! Projection is mostly average and longevity is average too. depend on your skin you may get a little more but it was average and sometimes above average on my skin. If I want to describe the smell in two words, it would be "Black and Grey" Very unique fragrance that personally I don't have balls to wear it in the public unless in a Black or Death Metal concert to smell evil!! I think it's stunning but very hard to wear.
This is an intriguing and complex scent.
The juice is a deep golden colour.
Sniffing the juice in the vial, I immediately got a powerful leather-laurel (bay leaf) combination. I tried Foustie's advice and put a bit on paper. That brought galbanum (a bitter celery-leaf note) to prominence.
On my skin, the galbanum is extremely fleeting. The scent quickly goes to leather and laurel, with a brief sulphur note which reminds me of the tops of chopped green onions. At this point, the scent is a dark green sort, quite leathery, and dry. It is cool (perhaps a bit minty) but not cold -- the leather gives it considerable warmth.
The leather recedes and combines with a dusky, round scent which is also a bit soapy. This phase is quite complex and I struggle to identify it. I feel that is benzion from the styrax with myrtle and myrrh. At times this phase seems to suggest warm rubber!
Then, some marvelous smoky incense appears. This is a new and very pleasant phase, sadly a brief one.
Next, a coumarin (hay) and tobacco note appears. It is more sweet and grassy, with a kind of reed-stalk-wood pith aspect. The interior of a newly-snapped twig comes to mind.
The scent seems quite masculine to me: it is not sweet, floral or pretty. It is powerful, weighty, leathery-green. I guess in style it is a chypre.
I like it but I am not in LOVE with it. It is an amazing scent. Perhaps it is a bit too weighty/dense for me, and a bit too sweet in the dry-down. Still, any green fan should try it.
The fragrance itself is expansively green, and cold. I think that it should be tried on paper to fully appreciate that.
The first blast is refreshing, herbal, slightly bitter, a bit like an herbal apertif. On skin it becomes a bit more balsamic quite quickly, whereas on paper it retains its icy greenness. On me, notes seem to come and go throughout the development, pine, herbs, sage and thyme in particular but there is also juniper, lavender, artemisia, oregano and others listed in the notes. Galbanum clearly plays an important part. Although it does become a bit more balsamic at times (think fir balsam, and it does have styrax listed) it remains underscored with an astringent chill. At times a cool mint comes through and it is quite dominant. Mint is not listed in the main, abbreviated, description, but it is definately there and I did find it in the long list. There are many listed notes that I don't smell, and you might.
To me, the heart of this fragrance is camphoraceous, piney, minty, herbal with a cold character.