A nice synthetic leather. Cade, frankincense, leather. I dont see them, but i feel like i detect some whispers of cypriol and vetiver. Maybe something else is giving me that impression though. Peppered jerky? Eh, i guess. Kinda feels like a thicker, updated, a little less fresh Yatagan, with its leather, castoreum, and galbanum. As that is my favorite fragrance of all time, this is obviously a thumbs up for me. Happy to know things like this exist, but I prefer the lighter density of the Caron. Price is fairly high, but quality is good. Blending is well done, and there arent many sharp corners. Performance is high, no worries there.
I feel badly for leaving bad to neutral reviews of other Mona di Orios when I actually enjoy most of the others. Cuir is the first fragrance I tried of this house and it remains for me, a benchmark leather. It's realistic, a little butch, and I detect a wonderfully toasted nuttiness rather than full-on BBQ notes.
Yes, it's quite dry and smoky. But there's also something poised about it. It's not tough like Tuscan Leather's thick butch bullhide or Knize Ten's stiff gasoline blonde side. It's not raw like Anubis' smoky tanned pelts. I could go on with the comparisons about what Cuir is not. It's because Cuir is full of contradiction. Tough yet supple. Brutal yet tender. One of those special fragrances that does not lose its intrigue with daily wear.
Very strong leather right off. Cade, too. Both notes combined resemble a tobacco accord, for me. Cuir is a cold, dark scent. It is a dark room with only a single lit candle for illumination. Bowls of smoldering ancient incense. Smoke, nearly choking anyone present. It's narcotic, like a bitter pill. Very evocative for this woman.
A smokiness continues with an addition of a deep, resinous creature. Settles as an animal itself. Overall fairly linear.
Leather, cade, smoke, tobacco, galbanum. Deep, pungent, and resinously stunning. I wish I were the exact type of female who could wear this scent with casualness and aplomb, and on some rare days I almost think I am! On other days, I think, 'Who am I kidding?' this stuff is brutal, and smells like I've been soldering in a run down machinist's shop on the smokey end of town. Either way, I find it a fascinating and risky take on the leather genre.
If I were a braver, more iconoclastic woman, or any kind of man, I'd wear the hell out of this.
This is a great scent. This is a great leather scent.
Cuir has a slight cardamom note, but is otherwise mostly a very leather fragrance with the addition of a tobacco note. The leather rich, dark, sensuous, but not overbearing. An approximation would be any old, even antique leather product such as a chair, or briefcase. There is a distinct smokiness from cade and birch initially which gradually subsides. The tobacco note is dry, ashy, - like cigarette ash, or an ashtray, and a hint at an opened pack of cigarettes. This linear leather-tobacco accord is the centrepiece of the composition. It is very original, very nice, and very compelling. I also find it evocative - when I was a child, this was the smell of many a gent, all smokers, who, wrapped in their shawls, would gather at little tea shops on winter evenings (pre global warming days when Calcutta had an authentic 'winter') to sip on steaming tea and discuss everything under the sun. Those days are gone, and that reference alone makes it rather worldly.
Sillage is somewhat subdued but still discernible and persistent, and duration is average at around 6-7 hours. Cuir has similarities with Patchouli 24 and Bois d'Ascese, but is less smoky than either and also surprisingly more natural smelling. It is not as impactful as either of those two, but a little persistence reveals that it is just as interesting and rewarding, and perhaps more memorable.
A potent leather - a new or fresh leather smell as mentioned below, also a smoky, peppery, beef jerky smell, as mentioned, which all sounds fine, but it's just a bit harsh, even a bit boozy, and intermittently synthetic: imagine an especially strong-smelling leather sofa in the home of a heavy drinker and smoker, or maybe a bar.
I find this leather scent much more interesting than TF's Tuscan Leather. It's not quite as in-your-face and butch as TL either and is much more wearable than most other leathers I've sampled. My daughter really liked it as well and thinks it smells just like beef jerky or steak.
Obviously it is constructed of quality ingredients and is one that should be experienced if you like leather scents.
Smokey and ashy burned leather and woods. I can't see myself personally wearing this, but it is one of the most realistic fragrances I've smelled in a while. Quality ingredients. If you are a true leather and woods fan, you will love this.
Won't give a thumbs up for uniqueness unless I could foresee wearing it. But this is almost the exception. Its the smell of a freshly opened bag of teriyaki beef jerky, smoky (sweet) salt, intermingled with a strange pepper/smoke angle.
Why you would want to smell like that is somewhat mystifying to me; its not really a leathery/masculine/animalic/other evocative words, its just beef jerky. Bridesmaid at a frenemies wedding?
Testing a dab-on sample from teardrop (thanks!) on OH and me, we get coal-tar soap from the off; a dried-out creosoted fence; and the dry-down of Guerlain Vetiver/herbs. Nary a bit of leather to be had.
OH had hoped for some tobacco, given other reviews of this scent, but it was not to be.
I do like coal-tar/creosote/phenols but would I want them when I was expecting leather?
Results may differ when sprayed but when dabbed there's no leather.
Mona di Orio's Cuir starts off with a very tart spiced citrus accord that gives way quickly to the kind of anise and artemisia blend perfumers like to associate with absinthe. The absinthe in turn recedes somewhat in the wake of a very bold, very smoky animalic leather that falls somewhere between an extinguished campfire and a well-worn saddle. It's not quite the barbecue of, say, Tauer's Lonestar Memories, but it is at once dark, meaty, and conspicuously charred.
A half an hour on and the citrus, absinthe and spices have disappeared without a trace, leaving a simple, monolithic presentation of the charred leather accord. Your appreciation of this scent will hence depend entirely on whether you enjoy smoke and animalic leather unencumbered by distracting ornament or detail. Your willingness to seek it out will depend on whether you judge its quality superior to other pure leather scents. I personally prefer my birch tar and castoreum garnished with contrasting or complimentary flavors, as in Montale's Oud Cuir d'Arabie, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Dirty Rose, or Durbano's Black Tourmaline.
Don't know if this was due to luck or skills (unexplicably unexpressed in most of her other scents, then...), but finally, here Mona di Orio wins. This in fact, is a totally intriguing and probably really great scent even greater than I think, as it is much complex and "vast". Basically, to give you a bold figure naming two rather known scents that just came to my mind while testing Cuir, I would place this exactly halfway between Knize Ten and Parfum d'Empire's Eau de Gloire, as it blends some distinctive elements from both of course, adding much else of its own. Roughly said, it blends the hieratic, monolithic dusty leather personality of Knize, with a really well-executed balsamic/anisic/earthy accord which is the signature of Eau de Gloire. Spicy, dry, bitter, almost roasted leather, pepper, juniper, tobacco, an amber/vanilla/resinous accord, an oakmoss/patchouli-like accord, and a sharp and clear anisic/liquorice note, which apparently is not in the composition but I still smell it clearly (don't know what it may be due to). The base notes are beautiful, dark and dusty. So multi-faceted it is almost confused, but it just stops a step before collapsing, and magically manages to keep this complex texture together. As minutes pass that anisic/earthy/mossy accord emerges even clearer, together with that splendid roasted leather and tobacco accord with a castoreum heart. Basically a modern shady fougère with just a hint of a fresh balsamic breeze. Quite complex but wearable and beautiful. Not much powerful, but the persistence is good to me. The only con: that "roasted leather feel" may get a bit annoying after a while (and also... better wear it at least 20 minutes before going out).
Burnt leatherA tough one to wear. Much more smoky and ashy than I'd expected. After about an hour the fragrance sweetens up just a touch, making it more pleasant to wear, but the wait is long and the leather is overwhelmed by the smoke. It's unique but unwearable for me. Masculine, too; I can't imagine many women being able to pull this off.Sillage is moderate, longevity about 16 hours. Unique, made of high quality ingredients, but not my style. Pros: Great longevity, richCons: Too smoky for my taste"
This is a dark, dry, bitter, smoky leather, with a distinctly meaty note of burnt pepper steak in the opening phase. lt calms down a little after an hour or so, becoming more salty & animalic, but never sweetening up at all. From here it doesn't develop any further, settling close to the skin, & still leaving traces a good sixteen hours later.
l don't mind a rough, masculine opening in a leather fragrance, but l prefer to get a little more sweetness & cuddliness in the drydown than l'm getting here, & so l haven't warmed to this one. lf, on the other hand, you prefer your leathers dry & dark, you might want to give this a try.
i get leather and a green opening that basically stays linear with no evolution. the opening stays pretty linear to the base. if you like leathey scents then this is for you. otherwise the price tag is too high imo..
I've to be honest, I expected something more challenging. This is just to say that Cuir is not as scary as it may sound. It opens with a bold smoky accord of nicotine (tobacco) and cardamom surrounded by an overall woody, sort of piney vibe. Yes, it's definitely smoky but nowhere close to the suffocating foghorn of, say, Lonestar Memories or Patchouli 24 (which I thoroughly enjoy BTW). During the inital phases, Cuir resembles more of light cigarette smoke paired with dark green notes while a sort of anisic presence, probably provided by the absynth, adds a nice twist.
It then quickly evolves into pure, warm castoreum. Once the animalic leatheraccord sets in, Cuir stays pretty linear for 4-5 hours to then completely disappear from skin. Very nice.
Downside: It didn't project how I expected. Somewhat short-lived.
If this wasn't a leather scent I'd say it was the best smoky scent there is. Heck, I'll say it anyway. It's right up there with Chaman's Party and beats all the smoky fragrances from Demeter, CB, DSH, AvaLuxe etc. Novelty smoke scents tend to emphasise warm cuddly sweetness or sometimes a slightly nauseating sharp-and-sweet combination, and even the campfire smoke of Chaman's Party is slightly "oily" and woody, but Cuir is dryly smoky, more like cigarette smoke - in fact a bit like the cigarette note in Jasmin et Cigarette. I'll have to add that I enjoy the smell of fresh cigarette smoke so if you don't you probably won't like Cuir.
With time Cuir turns less smoky and more leathery - I don't mean that different notes are emphasised, it's still basically the same fragrance, but as the acrid smoke is mellowed it gets easier to think of it as leather. The smoke is still there, but smells more smoked or cured (not infused with artificial smoke aroma!) than like inhaling fresh smoke. Considered as a leather scent, Cuir is neither raw and animalic like flayed hides nor soft and refined like suede, but dry and spicy in a way that reminds me of Etro Gomma, Knize Ten and L'Artisan L'eau du navigateur. I still enjoy this part of the fragrance, but not half as much as that initial blast of smoke.
I am also surprised by such a number of negative opinions. It is really my favorite perfume. Such a deep smoky leather, calm, confident and thought-provoking. Very masculine and not in the least aggressive. And one more positive aspect - this Cuir doesn't remind of any other fragrance, which is unusual nowadays.
Quite surprised by all the neutral and negative reviews. I wanted to try some Mona di Orio creations after her suddend departure. What a loss for the parfume world. This cuir is really a great parfume. The cardamon is really enchanting. The leather of Mona is cold and bitter but gets warmer with time. I'm sorry I haven't appreciated this great woman and nose before.