Les Exceptions : Woodissime
Thierry Mugler (2016)

Woodissime is superlative and superb. It stands skyscraper-tall and like any grand old tree holds many other compelling notes in its deep, dry heart. The resin has power and sweetness but is scattered and moted like pollen so it never feels weighted down. As a result those resins are easy to appreciate despite their strength. There is some fantastical fruity note, a blend of red fruits with honey as well as a lactonic twist. The real star of this composition is a most gorgeous osmanthus note, as welcome as a well-worn suede glove. The nectar-like sweetness of all of these non-woody notes somehow does not clash with that dry, smooth, implacable woody heart.

Woodissime is a well appointed floral/resinous (really resinous in its initial and central stage) accord taking part to the new Thierry Mugler-collection Les Exceptions announced as “Daring, breathtaking, addictive, noble ... a new dimension in the fragrance universe, Designer Perfume." This fragrances is based on floral, oriental, musky and chypre accents. It seems with this collection the Mugler's aim being to reintroduce several masterpieces of traditional perfumery as conveyed into the future with significantly amplified ingredients and original notes. The Woodissime's resinous approach is by soon oudish, spicy, sweet and growling in its power. You can easily discern that typical oudish gassy-sugary spark quite "Montalesque" (a la Intense Cafè to quote one), synth and balsamic but with a "golden" ambery/floral/talky dramatic touch a la Amouage Gold woman (at least just in part). Osmanthus provides its noble sophisticated spark (one of the main Woodissime's qualities) with its touch of languid, "posh" and royal romanticism. Resins are sugary, ambery and spicy, quite sweet throughout. This resinous side is for a while almost burnt sugary and peppery (quite enjoyable, warm and sensual) while the supreme woodiness turns finally out sharper, kind of dusty, cedary, misty and vaguely pencil-shaving a la Gucci Pour Homme. This woodiness provides hints of "saltiness" counteracting and balancing the dominant sweetness. A touch of muskiness (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) completes the olfactory spectrum. This juice is profound/assertive and glamour-chic at same time with its initial and central "goldness". Dry down is more reatrained but still sugary, oudish and warm. This is a presenceful fragrance, not particularly refined or original but definitely powerful and warm (sexy and erotic on the right skin).

P.S: this Eau de parfum finally (gradually) evolves and changes, it seems like a sort of mild suedish touch keeps jumping on the stage while performing as final olfactory factor till the end of the trip. Along this "long tail stage" the sweetness recedes, woodiness is less cedary/pencil-shavings (and more in general less present, less "woody") and well connected to an elegant note of hot sensual musky suede (balanced and classic in vibe) a la Cartier La Panthére (and to a lesser extent a la Guerlain Habit Rouge Edp or Jeroboam Vespero) quite organic in its olfactive perception. I suppose hints of exotic fruitiness are masterfully included somewhere in the blend.

Pretty good. Slightly reminds me of Pardon. Pardon is much better though. Boozy, with a nice sandalwood sidekick and vetiver background make this a nice fragrance. 7/10

I'm always a sucker for a well-crafter wood scent. I was quite eager to give "Les Exceptions: Woodissime" by Thierry Mugler a sample run....

The spray-on begins with a sweet, boozy experience that reminds me of aperitifs like Gran Marnier and Disaronno (orange and almond liqueurs, respectively). It is a surprisingly simple, clean start to something I'd expected to be more woody. If there is any woody resemblance, it's in a stripped-down cedar sitting within this arguably, singularly floral quality (the osmanthus) with a moderate touch of patchouli. And being an oud note fanatic, I was sniffing and sniffing to try and detect it; I detect a smidgen of it in there, but nothing definitive. Vetiver, well...again, in very subtle amounts, if at all. Sandalwood may be the most evident wood note in this overall very simple, bare composition.

This fragrance reminds me of a close cousin to a surprisingly well-made and inexpensive scent made by TJ Maxx, called Bourbon Craft. Both are heavy on sandalwood and with an unmistakable boozy nature that renders them smooth and sensuous. Personally, I find that Bourbon Craft would be a more satisfactory experience, by no means smelling "cheap" (though it goes for US$13) yet exuding a classy character. Woodissime EdP would then seem WAY overpriced by comparison, doing just about the same thing as Bourbon Craft, albeit more subtly.

I like Woodissime, but given the inexpensive alternative that is SO similar to it, I wouldn't plunk down the serious $$$'s for it.

Incense and wood with some modern boozy-sweetness thrown in on top of old-school patchouli. In the same vein as other oud-wood-incense scents but has a smooth, refined finish. Some might say well-blended.

Projection is very good and the scent lingers all day.