I loved the opening and first half hour, aldehydes combined with rose, saffron and light incense, airy and shimmering, soon a fruity light apricot appears and then it kind of all collapsed into a synthetic mush, supposedly there's real ambergris and moss in the base but it smells like pure ambrox to me and no moss per say. In the beforetimes of IFRA I have a feeling it could have been amazing.
Fuitchouli gets the Desert d'Orient treatment was my takeaway, disapointed
Its got a lot of rose up top, obviously. Its really zingy, slightly medicinal, metallic, and green. I get a fleeting greenness that kinda feels like the prickly stem of the rose. The incense is there, though blended in, and overshadowed early. It is a dark rose fragrance, though not black. It is not gothic. It is more of a deep red and dark green kaleidoscope. It is very piquant in the opening, but mellows out.
Too much aldehydic rose for me to enjoy this, and I love rose but just not this apparently. I'm not a huge fan of the Guerlain scents that I've tried, but I thought maybe I would enjoy this because it's quite different from the other ones I've smelled. Unfortunately, no. I think I just don't like the Guerlain DNA. Luckily I only have a sample. I don't hate it, so I'll use this until I finish it, and then I'll move along to bigger and better rosy/musky things.
A bright, light and fresh opening blast geeets me. It is composed of a somewhat bland rose with generalised lashings of aldehydes poured over it. After a bit of time, a saffron is added on, which is not a dark, spicy intense saffron; it is much lighter than the saffron in, for instance, Comptoir Sud, Pacifique Sultan Safran.
The drydown adds in a soft andsomewhat darker patchouli, with a glowing and gentle vetiver impression also present; the latter does not display and earthiness or harshness at all. Most importantly, through this period a smooth and soft frankincense arises, which brings additional depth to the whole mix.
Then suddenly something unexpected happens: the top notes together with the heart notes coalesce into one unity of olfactory brilliance, when the aldehydic rose with the patchouli, the vetiver and the frankincense unite in wonderful harmony to a glowing to a perfectly blended alliance, a sweet spot of balance and intensity that represents a special moments in the development of this creation, a bit like an olfactory equivalent to the et homo factus est in the Credo of Beethoven's Missa Solemnis. This lasts for about an hour; but what a delicious hour that is!
Form the these heights the base drags us back into the realm of niceness, if not mundanity. An temps to create a laboratory ambergris together with a laboratory moss - welcome back to the less exciting parts of this creation,m; but fortunately the frankincense, now a bit attenuated, still provides interesting depth and character. A fresh and bright soapy note - neither barbershop nor particularly powdery - constitutes the final impression towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an splendid fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.
Like life, this spring creation encompasses the range from dizzying heights to mundane lows; but but the peaks of deliciousness do not last very long - six transit gloria mundi. Most of is is a bit generic. Overall it is a good scent though. 3.25/5