Le Vertige
Coty (1906)

Coty – Le Vertige (1906)

Coty's Le Vertige was created in 1906, the work of his chief perfumer, Vincent Roubert. It began life as a “dry, floral woody oriental,” but was reformulated in 1928 to include aldehydes in the top notes. Its note tree includes the following:

Top: Lemon, Geranium Bergamot
Heart: Rose, Muguet, Orris, Frankincense, Labdanum
Base: Mexican Vanilla, Ambergris, Cedar, Oakmoss, Indian Musk, Vetiver,
Mysore Sandalwood, Patchouli

It was released originally in a Baccarat bottle and was the eighth perfume to emerge from the house of Coty since its opening in 1902. Production ceased in 1941 due to materials being unavailable in the German-occupied Paris. It did re-appear as a parfum de toilette composition in the 1960s, before disappearing completely.

I am experiencing an eau de toilette sample. To my nose it is much more of a chypre than what we would consider to be an oriental. It is very rich, very deeply concentrated, and very dry. I am reminded of Guerlain's Bouquet de Faunes and of course, Coty's own Chypre, which did not appear until eleven years later. The blending is so perfect that not a single note stands out, but the combination of vanilla, cedar and sandalwood occasionally wafts up from my wrist.

It is definitely a base note-dominated creation. The geranium and orris provide the dryness and the dark rose, the center. This is a sensuous, warm and lush scent, bringing to mind that
heady turn of the last century when French society still wore its furs to the theatre and opera. In that sense it is also very reminiscent of the house of Weil, many of whose creations were designed to be worn with furs.

Definitely a masterpiece and as well put by my gift giver, “rarer than rocking horse breath.”
A treasure to be sought out for all lovers of vintage chypres.