For all the praise I've seen for Andy Tauer I'm really disappointed with L'Air du Désert Marocain. First scent I try from Tauer btw.
It's very alcoholic in the opening but not in a boozy way, it's alcoholic in a very appalling, synthetic way like you've just taken the cap off of a highlighter or permanent marker, I kid you not. By now I gather that it's actually the boat load of cumin that's in here. In other words this is not well balanced at all. It's way too cumin heavy. This is like replacing all the juniper in Bond No.9 - Cooper Square with solely cumin.
Having read and heard a lot of good things about our programmer-turned-perfumer friend and seeing the interesting note pyramid I really thought he would have come up with something that can compete with a good Creed or so but that's not the case. I can hardly make out any other notes except petitgrain and ambroxan. So I also don't get any ambergris in this nor would it have saved it.
Love for the true art of perfumery, and respect towards other lovers and connoisseurs of the art make it natural to seek and try compositions, causing such turbulence as "L'Air du Désert Marocain".
My first attempt with this perfume was unsuccessful. I wanted to understand why people are excited about it. Naturally, I wanted to feel what Andy Tauer describes as Lying on the bed, watching the moon rising over the sandy hills of the Saharan desert, he dreamt the fragrance of a Moroccan night.. My second attempt with the perfume was unsuccessful. And so were all the rest. Again, I am faced with the subjectivity in the perception and imagination of perfumes and all things ether.
Once we have agreed that this perfume is special, let's dive little deeper into it and try and see what happens when I try to communicate with its essence.
There are many things wrong with this composition. Initially, the opening is strong, complex and unique, and makes a mark deeper than the subjective perception. So far so good. However, this quickly starts to qualify as a loud, metallic, dirty, surficial and nauseating scent. Not the qualities I look for in a perfume. Even less so, when I contemplate the Moon in a desert in Marocco, inhaling the mystical Air that has distilled the essence of the conception of Moon, Night and Desert. Turning this air into a liquid would yield the desired perfume.
Air is lightness.
Moon is innocence.
Night is silence.
Desert is austerity and infinity.
Marocco is the alchemy of cultures European and Arabic.
Alchemy is depth and continuous transformation.
I find none of these qualities in "L'Air du Désert Marocain.
The qualities ascribed to the perfume by Andy Tauer are powerful, sensual and pure. I agree that purity and an elegant metaphysical sensuality should/could hold a place in such a perfume. I don't see what being powerful has to do with it though.
As mentioned, however, I appreciate the uniqueness of "L'Air du Désert Marocain". It triggers me as scientific phenomenon, an experiment in perfumery, which deserves attention and recognition in its own right. There should be no room for arrogant neglect here. That is why, I cannot give it a negative rating. As for the experiences I look for in perfume, "L'Air du Désert Marocain" passes by me big time.
There's nothing I can say that hasn't been said here already. A fragrance everyone should try once. I got my hands on half a bottle from lot 017 which I'm very happy with. I'm told the quality of the ingredients in earlier lots is better. Whether that's the case or not, it's lovely. The only problem with LDDM is I'll find it hard to make it last as I want to wear it everyday!
I do not detect any of the notes listed in the pyramid. None. To me, this is Moroccan incense, a bit of oud, coffee beans, amber, and cardamom. Maybe there is something seriously wrong with my sense of smell. This disconnect is not unusual. It's why I stopped writing reviews. I like what I like but I no longer trust my own analysis of a scent.
However, I love this one. Especially on my t-shirt the next day. It's been my signature scent for two years. To paraphrase the Duke, if it smells good, it IS good.
Beautiful Barbie car, vanilla toothpaste. Chewy sugar cookie dough. I detected lily pollen at one point. Love it right away but thought it was not projecting at first. Smoke started about half an hour in for me when I discovered that I was sniffing too close. It's as if I pulled apart an Oreo and spread the white cream on my neck. My hands smell very young, like one of those baby teething cookies. A wet drooled on one. 9:30am to 3:30pm and I'm still getting little whiffs though they are a slightly less exciting powder now. I love the scent, but I never got the cumin at all and there is no cedar wood to speak of. I have night blooming jasmine right outside my bedroom window and this doesn't smell similar. Maybe this is supposed to be more of the purple jasmine shrub not the white jasmine creepers?
There used to be a mall shop that sold native american jewelry and they also sold these candles in blue wine glasses. They only came in one scent. They called it ...something rain. Wish I could remember because it was very similar to a bright but rounded out ylang ylang and I'm remembering it so clearly. I wouldn't expect most people would get the complexity in this scent. You really have to sit in it over time to get more than two notes. Because it's so playful and young in my mind, it can't feel expensive.
This scent pushes my body odor towards brown sugar over time when applied directly to da zones. I thought people were crazy saying they feel the sting of the desert air when inhaling because the scent seems so soft and well tempered but then I got it. To me, this is more of a headache stab than a spicy sting but I see what they are saying now. Wouldn't use the word "spicy" though; It's pretty cushy.
There is also a pinch of dirty grit in the dry down like dark soil with worms. Really had to look for it though. I think it's coming partially from me personally (brown sugar dirt) which makes me think I should try the flanker. My skin loves the formulation but it's not the right style for the Daily I'm seeking and I'm on a budget. I'd want my linens to smell like this forever but not really my body. Better for Women.
Another overly, insanely hyped fragrance that does not deliver. Its main problem: the rose note. Not all roses are created equal, and this rose is a medicinal, eucalyptic-licorice rose that is neither friendly not airy. It maybe your type of rose, though, so it's worth trying for sure.
Like all the other Tauers I've tried so far, this is well composed and thoughtful. It is pleasing from beginning to end, although I really wish the rose note can be improved, which is unlikely given all the strange, inexplicable hype around this fragrance.
The distant dry down brings down the volume of the rose note and amplifies a note that smells like vanilla to me. Still welcome, still not mind blowing.