La Pausa EdP and 28 La Pausa EdT are obviously based on the same Iris accord, but the EdP is rounder and more persistent. It may be the one case where the Exclusifs EdP improved on the original EdT. But then, it depends what youre after.
28 LP is a gossamer thing, an elegant wisp that slips from your grasp just as youve wrapped your fingers around it. Then, when you think it would escape, it reveals a stealth base that sustains light but long. Its lovely but dry and spare, feminine only in the sense of some presumed distaff delicacy.
LP EdP adds longevity and performance. The peppercorns and vetiver are more pronounced, yet they have the effect of buoying the iris pallida rather than drowning it. Theres a modern WAC in there, but its neither cheap not oversaturated. Why this should be classified as feminine is a mystery to me, as its easily unisexI dare say more butch than the original iris-centric Dior Homme.
Polge the Elder did a fine job with both LPs. If you want a fragrance that lasts, the EdP is the clear winner. But it may be that the memory of the EdT will last longer still.
Iris. Powder. dusty. Old iris. New iris. Slightly earthy iris. It's iris - what more can be said. Yeah, it is pretty. After a bit, I smell something underneath. Vaguely like pear or some other fruit. It's faint. Cedar maybe? Confused...
This Chanel doesn't last long on me. It is gone too soon. Not very memorable either. Meh. I hate to have to give a neutral rating for a Chanel. I have other iris scents that give me more of a thrill.
A beautiful and luxurious iris perfume, the top notesin La Pausa come off almost identically as the Orris Abs. vials in Chanel's demonstration perfumers' organs in boutiques.
The orris here is soft, mellow and above all creamy and waxy, distinguishing it from other iris heavy fragrances like Malle's Iris Poudre which often bring out the nostalgic, powdery accents of iris. Not here. The iris is buttery and effortless, almost like freshly laundered white sheets with a hint of expensive makeup left on them from the day before.
Besides the iris, there is little else to discern to my nose, hence the similarities to this and pure Orris abs. (per Chanel). La Pausa is whimsical, nonchalant and cheery, like a happy American heiress from the 1940s who went to French finishing school.
Unfortunately, longevity is the deal-breaker for me here as La Pausa becomes a skin scent about 1.5 hours in. Not even having sillage enough to waft and catch your nose at moments, I have to put my nose against my wrist to catch anything of it.
In the drydown, the gentle scent has it's cool iris descend into an almost translucent, watery floral- the lack of anything musky or powdery to my nose is interesting. At this stage 4 hours in, the whole fragrance reminds me distinctly of Pomelo (as in the fruit), watery, chilly, slightly bitter rind and containing the faintest floral note of orange blossom.
At fist sniff it reminds me of Nu (YSL). And then after couple of minutes it - wait- did I forget to put on my perfume?
Two additional puffs on my wrist, each puff on one wrist, no rubbing them against each other of course, two puffs on the neck, again one on each side. The air around me smells opulent. My husband loves the fragrance and how it grows on my skin. After half an hour he leans over and asks me why I don't wear any perfume any more. Big thumb down I'm afraid. One of most expensive 30 minutes of my life...