For me there is nothing divisive about Kouros, it is a fantastic fragrance pure and simple. A masterpiece by Pierre Bourdon that since it was released 40 years ago has been steadfastly popular, masculine and beautifully blended. I can only speak about the older formulation however, as my bottle is circa 2006. My bottle has lasted me so long because Kouros is a strong performing fragrance and it is a bold fragrance for certain occasions and moods. I first smelt Kouros on a sample card attached to a magazine advertisement back in the late 1980s. I was an adolescent at the time and Kouros captivated me. I thought it was strong, masculine, sophisticated and sexy. 30 odd years later and I still love it.
While many people notice the civet, which can be off putting for some, there is actually a lot going on in Kouros. In the opening the oakmoss is strong along with some citrus and aldehydes. Of course there is that powerful musk that starts to kick in from the opening, along with the tonka bean. The sharp opening settles down and the scent becomes more powdery and the floral notes come to the fore, tampered by leather and a hint of cinnamon. All of it is perfectly blended in a way that you would expect from a perfumer who had mastered his craft.
I find Kouros to be a strong and confidence inspiring fragrance. I would not wear it to the office or close work occasions. It is suitable for a date night, parties or just weekends when you want something confident, bold and complex. The oakmoss in the opening may make this fragrance take on a dated vibe, but the dry-down of this scent can compete with the best contemporaries. Kouros lasts all day on my skin, again I'm reviewing an older formulation, and the projection is excellent. One of the favourites in my collection.
Kouros by Yves Saint Lautent is heavy, animalistic and has features of chypre perfumes. It is essentially timeless and expresses masculinity in the terms of Ancient Greece.
Kouros is loaded with animalistic notes (musk, civet, leather, honey) that make up this carnal leading accord. In this leading accord, aromatic herbs and aldehydes with flowers are immersed.
Aldehydes are in the foreground. Metallic, watery, sharp, clearly in the style of years gone by. This is Kouros' hallmark, its impossible to forge staple. The green, covered by moss layer gives the blend a primordial masculine character. The green accords present in the mixture are cold and surrounded by gray sage. The base, on the other hand, gains a little bit of resinous, warm amber tones.
Just an absolute beast ass kicker of a fragrance, very strong very masculine, beats the piss out of anything made today ! But it is definitely not for everyone so look at the note break down compare to fragrances you like/own/currently wear before you buy it or get a sample for e legitimate test run. Kouros is in my top 3 fragrances for life ! An amazingly close dead on 99.9% clone of kouros for only 9$ is The Man Silver by Milton Lloyd. Get it on eBay or amazon or Milton Lloyd website it's so cheap and of such high quality lasts for 24 hours on me
I'm not too big into classic men's fragrances in general. Often things with oakmoss or some other classic notes tend to come off very soapy to me. But, I also haven't really tried too many, so I figure I should.
Still, it comes as no surprise to me that Kouros isn't for me. The strong civet note and the soapiness of the oakmoss combine to create a kind of urinal cake smell when up close. And really that proximity is the issue. It's not something where you can put your wrist up to your nose and take a sniff (something I love to do with my favorite fragrances). It's definitely better from far away, which is just not my style.
I've tried both a vintage version (from the 90s) and the current version (as of 2019).
The vintage is indeed "dirtier." Kind of nauseating actually. I wanted to experience the legendary "gladiator jock strap" odor of this thing and... well... be careful what you wish for. It's just not very pleasant. I don't get any urine or fecal smells. It's just kind of ew.
The current reformulation is actually somewhat better to my nose. It has a more incense quality. Still keeping the animalic notes but masking them a bit with spice. Only in the drydown will you experience what the original was and by then it's a skin scent where it belongs.
Both have excellent longevity.
I was looking for something that was bold and outrageous and unapologetically masculine, but the original is just kind of gross. It doesn't smell so much like a sweaty guy as it does a dead animal dipped in potpourri.
If you want to try this, go ahead. But don't get upset if you can't find the vintage stuff, and certainly don't spend big bucks for it. It's not actually wearable in public whereas the new stuff is. Barely.
I tried the eau de toilette of this. Don't get me wrong, I love sweet fragrances for men, but THIS. It smells DISGUSTING. Don't be fooled by all the positive reviews, most of them are talking about the vintage version (that I've never tried and probably will never try but I assume it smelled better than the current version). This strongly smells like those flowers that reek of piss. I'm not kidding you. PISS. It makes me want to throw up. This cologne is masculine in all the wrong ways. It's an abomination. I don't even know how they managed to create something that smells so foul, sweet and macho at the same time. DON'T buy this before testing is. Or even better; don't buy this at all.
I get a soapy rich base laced with anise and a pinch of honey to that anise.White flowers lurking in the mix.This is very musky...in fact the most I've detected in any fragrance.
This is a fragrance I find disgusting because I just find a jokingly toilet reference behind this scent's design, the bottle, and the musk.
The musk comes off as having some kind of fecal similarity that's gone in about 30 minutes but it's unsettling and just gross. The other notes shape this kind of dimension that you're in a white marble decorated bathroom in a restaurant or hotel. Some kind of anise infused custom soap and a vase of flowers on the white marble sink. Turning around behind you is a toilet that contains fecal matter that hasn't been flushed.
I have no idea why someone would want to smell like they spent the night sleeping on a public restroom floor...disgusting.
Kouros was a ancient hero who was said to have climbed a mountain and found the doorway to Mount Olympus the home of the Gods. The God's were impressed with this manly hero and the way he carried himself in their presence. Zeus the Father of the Gods gave Kouros the divine ambrosia to take back to Earth.
This ambrosia was said to give immortality if drunk and if worn as a fragrance make women and men fall down in awe before you. Kouros as the hero he was shared this ambrosia elixir of the Gods with mighty Kings and princes of the world.
Many hundreds of years later another hero by the name of Odysseus found the ambrosia at the tree of life at the end of the world. He wanted to share this divine elixir with normal men and not just Kings and great Princes. So he copied the fragrance with the best ingredients he could find. He called it Kouros in honor of the great hero from hundreds of years ago who did climb a mountain and enter the realm of the God's.
Thousands of years later a young perfumery called Yves Saint Laurent was said to have found the ancient parchment in a old Greek temple hand written by Odysseus himself. He took this formula and worked day and night and then in 1981 he released it to the world and like Odysseus he called it Kouros in honor of one of the greatest heroes known to mankind.
For many years real men have enjoyed this juice, it may have changed over the years but it's Spirit lived on.
Unfortunately when Yves Saint Laurent died and the company was taken over by L Oreal the scent was butchered. Some say in the old Greek temples they can hear the Gods cry and lamenting the greatest gift they gave man is no more.
It smells like a construction worker who accidentally sprayed a fake sweet perfume on his dirty clothes. It is the first scent where in a matter of seconds after the first sniff i almost puked. The biggest mistake was that i also sprayed it on my wirst. I felt like a skunk in a perfume store.
Had a sample of this a few years ago, didn't really like it but didn't think it was horrible. Got another sample and actually kind of liked it. Not sure why people say it's so horrible. Never tried it in the 80's so I have no idea what the original smelled like. It's a classic and worth experiencing.
9 Mar 2019. changed from neutral to thumbs up. Come on it's Kouros, it is what it is and I think I've been converted.
It is almost impossible for me to dislike Kouros as it's in my dna. I have been wearing this stuff since I was 14 years old. I had a little break in my mid 20's but can't really remember any other time when I didn't have a bottle.
Powerful, manly, animalistic................But at the same time very fresh!!
I can see how the younger generation might not like it. It is so far removed from what they are used to. It bleeds testosterone.
I still think it's great even in it's current formulation and one could argue that it has benefited from being turned down a few notches.
There is a dirty vibe for sure but it is always overpowered by the clean notes.
One of the greatest fragrances ever created by my favorite perfumer Pierre Bourdon.
Jesus Maria and Joseph! Still got power, still animalistic, still wearing Kouros for almost 20 years. Reformulated but still has basics though. I bought yesterday 2 bottles just for pleasure. Thank You Bourdon Pierre!
Kouros is such a watershed fragrance, it's on the lips of almost everyone I come across that knows more than two cents worth about masculine fragrance. It's right up there in mythic must-haves alongside Azzaro Pour Homme (1978), Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955), Eau Sauvage (1966), and the like. Kouros constantly makes top personal lists all over, and is still a best seller for the Yves Saint Laurent label nearly 4 decades on (but not so much in the trend-obsessed US). I must say that so much heaping praise does tend to make me shy away a bit from a scent, not because I hate mainstream popularity, but just because some products (not just fragrance) take on a cult-like sense of value that can sometimes mean folks convince themselves it's good since everyone around them says so; I'm glad to report that is definitely not the case here, as Kouros is indeed a legend. Yves Saint Laurent had always been known for making provocative fashions, and it's no surprise that the scents he oversaw were equally so. His first Yves Saint Laurent Pour homme (1970) is a scent many older guys still swear by, and holds nearly as much mythos as this, but with Kouros, it seems he made his real mark with emerging "cologne guys" of the 1970's and early 1980's. The advertisements for this were equally as prolific as the scent itself would become over time, and it all factors in to why I avoided this one for so long. I literally just saw it everywhere (although to be fair, it hasn't turned up in a major department store since the mid 2000's). My formal introduction to it was a full unused and vintage 1.6 oz spray of it found for just $3 at a rummage shop that sells off belongings from estate odd lots, so perhaps even better for me as I can objectively experience it in it's originally intended state, and not anything reformulated. Kouros is part of what I call "the class of 81'", which includes other ultra-male scents like Chanel Antaeus (1981), Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui (1981), and Bijan for Men (1981). There were many other releases from this year, but these four represent the four corners of what most future 80's powerhouse would be based around.
A lot of talk here is had of this scent feeling like urine cakes, cat spraying, and other unsavory things in the opening, but as a staunch fan of stuff like Moustache by Rochas (1949) myself, that didn't really scare me one bit. Horrifying top notes are usually a prelude to something very special in the dry-down of older-style masculines, with a bit of territorial marking at first before the masculine reassurance and comfort shows up, or so I've noticed with older scents. It's almost a rite of passage to survive such openings in order to smell the true quality of what you just doused on yourself, and Kouros is no exception. This very urine-inflected opening lasts all of maybe a minute or two on the skin, perhaps five on clothing, before revealing it's true nature. The opening is the result of very bitter artemisia and old-school bergamot absolute mixing with spicy coriander and civet, with a barbershop clary sage to smooth it out. The very simple and elegant jasmine, clove, geranium, and iris come out to play the longest in the heart, and the opening probably responsible for this "cat pee" inference is just there to convey the "alpha male" masculinity that was gaining popularity at the onset of the 1980's. The base is much more of a traditional fougère foundation, since Kouros is classified as a fougère when all is said and done. Patchouli, amber, olibanum, honey, leather, and musk make for a very heady oriental feel that is locked into competition with the dry vetiver, hay-like coumarin, and green bite of oakmoss which keeps Kouros barely tailored enough to keep it's bulging, vein-riddled muscularity from bursting the seams and coming for you to do who-knows-what. Wear time is appreciable, as this is a real powerhouse to be sure, and one which others are often measured against, but it still have enough civility to be used casually or for the gym, if not really in a work environment in the 21st century. The intent of Kouros from esteemed perfumer Pierre Bourdon seemed to be as an uncompromisingly masculine fougère without the use of heavy musks or tons of patchouli/sandalwood/tonka mish-mashes like the old guard a la Brut (1964) from a few decades back.
Yves Saint Laurent was undoubtedly out to summarize "male" in the most concise (and likely homoerotic) way possible with this one, as it smells almost like what a fragrance made to capture the more pleasant aspects of a man's natural skin scent would be, or approximate it without actual sweat being added. It's one of the few scents with that "sweaty" aspect that I actually enjoy, as most others try to scream "active lifestyle" and dress that perspiration tang they synthesize with a bunch of aquatic notes into something that's just above armpit-covered-in-speed-stick aroma. I don't care what your sexual orientation or preferences are here, if you at all enjoy the smell of a guy (or being a guy) in his natural hygienic state, you would undoubtedly love this fragrance as it cleans up and adds to it without completely covering it up. If you're more of a "mask it" kind of person rather than somebody who likes body chemistry, you'll want to skip ahead to Rive Gauche Pour Homme (2003), since that is also a fougère but takes a traditional wet shaving route with its construction (and is the equal opposite of Kouros). This stuff pulls no punches in it's delivery of "Epitomizing the ultimate in man" as the old adverts used to say, and it's really as simple as that. Now I understand what everyone is on about with this stuff. I must say Kouros isn't an everyday wear or something to hit the clubs with (at least anymore), but in controlled application, it's a great day scent in spring or fall, and can't do you wrong in environments where smelling like you count your conquests won't be held against you. Does it live up to the hype? Well no, but nothing ever does. Newer batches contain far less animalics and oakmoss as to be expected, but the scent of Kouros is still quite recognizable from them, even if more of the spicy floral heart or fougère base is evident in place of that heavy masculine smack to the face. A classic all should try, but definitely not one all will like, and being able to test this in person has proven increasingly difficult outside Europe where it still flies off shelves, so ordering samples may be how it's done now. Thumbs up!