Christian Dior (1980)

Average Rating:  70 User Reviews

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Jules by Christian Dior

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About Jules by Christian Dior

People & Companies

Christian Dior
Fragrance House
Jean Martel

Contains notes of Black Pepper and Russian Leather. This hard to find woody scent by Dior was launched in 1980, and re-orchestrated in 2016.

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Where to buy Jules

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Reviews of Jules by Christian Dior

There are 70 reviews of Jules by Christian Dior.

Well, I have to admit that I managed to buy a very old bottle of Jules.

The two - the new one and the old one are not alike. They both are excellent, but they go in different directions.

The old one is heavy on castoreum and flowers!!(especially carnation, cyclamen and jasmine) and eventually dries down into leather-fir resin combo. From start to finish you can easily detect oakmoss.

The new one is a pretty bold leather right off the bat with an animalic twist (something a'la Leather Oud, but nowhere as animalic as that one). That changes into hefty leather with clear influence of fir resin and cyclamen (there is also jasmine hanging around).. The drydown, especially the base is a "woody leather with fir".

I like both.

Now that I have been wearing Jules for a few months, I will update my review.

To start with, I still agree with 11Mic22hael33 (see below) that the pyramid for the original version of Jules helps to better communicate the experience of wearing the fragrance than the more abstracted one used above. Jules opens with a heady bloom of sensations, at once bright, rich, herbal and animalic. Bergamot and galbanum are the dominant top notes, but a culinary basil and bitter, vegetal artemisia are very present and, just as they do in Caron’s famous Yatagan, they create at times a vegetal, almost-celery-like accord that comes and goes within the dominant impression of conifer resins and a smooth leather accord. A semi-sweet floralcy also announces itself primarily as cyclamen, and what feel like aldehydes wrap the whole in a glossy package, per Aramis, Kouros or similar.

While cyclamen flowers do not deliver a strong fragrance in nature, aromachemicals derived from cyclamen have been compared to rhubarb (stemmy, wet, translucent, tart-sweet...not accents that are particularly present in Jules), but also *linden blossoms*… Well, when I read the reference to linden in a description of the use of cyclamen as a perfumer's material, everything fell into place. My childhood home had a massive linden tree in the front boulevard, and I smelled those sticky, green, honey-scented blossoms for decades of my youth. The odour of linden blossoms dominates the heart of Jules, merging with a profound galbanum note and stirred up headily with animalic notes of civet (tomcat meets boxwood hedge) and what must be castoreum (an unguent, almost boozy, warm-father-in-a-leather-jacket hug.) This is a closely blended composition in which various notes create a condensed if not quite homogenous call-and-response of overlapping accords: the sweetly mentholated aspects of fir resin blend smoothly with the sweatiness of lavender leaves, while earthy cumin works with civetone to suggest a hint of body odour that, when combined with a jasmine/hedione note in the heart, produce a curious moment of dissonance somewhere between a curry-like savour, an bitter freshness resembling Dutch black liquorice, and the blatant sensuality of browning indolic white flowers in glass vase of murky water....I know I'm not exactly selling it (!), but it's a challenging, involving combination.

The base is mossy, very musky, and leathery, producing a very alluring sillage – rich and comforting with a hint of what many will recognize as a ‘shaving foam’ accord wafting out of an open shirt after a workday’s wearing, as experienced in the unabashedly masculine base of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. All is coloured by a touch of the humid (sometimes 'gloomy' or grim) rusticity character of 1970's aromatic compositions like Quorum, Aramis Devin, Paco, etc. Holding it all together is a classic 'fern'/fougère accord of citrus acidity (mostly as technical support), lavender (floral/herbal/spicy), geranium (green stem-like), tonka beans (hay) and moss (airy, ashen...mossy). The colour of the juice, like sunflower yellow darkening to dim chartreuse, perfectly captures its sappy-dirty essence.

Like other complex aromatic fougères of the 70’s-80’s (Hermès' Equipage, Azzaro Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Caron’s Yatagan and Le Troisièmme Homme…), Jules throws together a long list of ingredients crafted in such a way as to create accords that smell the way a vinyl record sounds – smooth, warm and a little luminous, as it segues seamlessly from track to track in a sustained theme that delivers a unified impression even when some of the tracks are more demanding than others. I need to underscore that I have not tried the original, so I'm working from impressions while also considering its context and parallel scents of the period. I sometimes question certain choices in Jules (that celery touch, or the caraway or cumin's animalic qualities) but the authorship of this reconstruction feels assured. Nothing here feels out of place or conspicuously synthetic, and Jules is an excellent, well-paced performer that has gained considerable potency as my bottle has aged.

I feel I should stop a moment to quickly address the obvious revelation that Jules is a bit of a dinosaur… and yet it doesn't feel appropriate for a not-quite-dinosaur-ish man like me. It smells of its era but is too lucid in its presentation of quality, well-defined notes and complex accords to be reduced to a generalized placeholder for 'earthy/soapy old school woody masculine' of the 1970's variety; its unconventional beauty pushes beyond the boundaries of the 'expensive-smelling genre placeholder', which was basically my bottom-line expectation when I went looking for this.

Someone has carefully brought this composition into the 21st century. Its herbal-floral heart is dense, simultaneously lactonic-soapy and earthy-musky but not without some animalic tenderness, with a bewitching mix of syrupy, unguent, mossy and leathery textures that, though recognizably connected to the era when Jules was first produced, has the character, conceptual clarity and refinement of a classic Dior composition, albeit not one of a 'bestseller' (if it were a book by F. Scott Fitzgerald, for instance it would the overly long and flawed and frankly more grown-up Tender is the Night rather than bright star of The Great Gatsby) It took me a long time to come to terms with Jules because I have spent so much time prior with some of its hardy, historical company (Yatagan and especially Paco are old favourites of mine)…But Jules really deserves attention based on its own merits. I don't wear it that often, but it's perfect for days when I want to experience the character, complexity, finesse and power (spray lightly!) of a truly 'characterful' composition.

If you've ever crushed the needles of fir trees, the opening will remind you of the scent that emanates as the oils and juices are released. Coniferous yet very yellow-green (the galbanum is a perfect pairing to accomplish this).

I also detect waxy, earthy flowers (the combination of hedione with cyclamen aldehyde perhaps) as it dries.

I can't speak for the original, but this version is mesmerizing to my nose. I am not sure if anyone would agree, but this would appeal to the naturalist fraghead (like me).

Jules is one of the most amazing fragrances on this planet. The new formulation smells almost identical to the original, only the new version has a stronger Civet note, stronger Carnation, and less Rose. AMAZING JOB with the reformulation! Dior never disappoints. Very high quality and luxurious juice. Don't let the prices on ebay and other sites scare you away from this timeless masterpiece. I just bought a bottle right off the Dior website, dior.com for $90!!! If you are a serious enthusiast, I highly recommend you get a bottle!

2010 model.

Krizia Uomo on top, with Gucci Nobile in the middle, their offspring is the base.

Nice scent, but thin and doesn't last a full workday.

The groomsmen are in black tie, with the family patriarch leading the way in the finest attire. The partiarch himself, sports a sharp black vintage tuxedo with flower on his chest. He says: a man who doesn't spent time with his family can never be a real man. As Godfather Don Corleone, play's the ruthless yet sympathetic head of the corleone family.

The vintage jules (1980) was a masterpiece and this one has DNA of that one. A jewel in a bottle, the sophisticated image of a man incrusted in this emerald bottle that prints the picture of masculinity and maturity, the fragrance is simply awesome and full of body. The kind of fragrances that have survived the test of time and still they represent the strenght of a man that's not afraid to wear his fragrances, he knows he's a winner.

An smokey, green, bitter, clean fragrance. It opens with a sharply herbal and green that's the main character of the fragrance. It's certainly distinctive, thought extremely familiar at the same time. Many focets of the galbanum combine with the spicy floral (hedione) in the heart. The fragrance softness in the dry down by fir and smooth leather. Ideal for a man that masculine but a classy gent. Is kind but not a pushover. Confident but never cocky. Pure class in a bottle.

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