An fresh/floral/spicy blast hits me: The is bergamot-cum-orange brightness contrasting with spicy pepper and ginger-infused cardamom. These two camps balance each other out quite nicely, although after some time the spicy side is moving a bit into the foreground. The jasmine promised in the name arrives too, although initially weaker before gradually assuming a more substantial role.
The drydown continues with the jasmine theme. It is restrainedly sweet, but remains a bit anaemic on me and is certainty not a particular dominant part of this mix. A pinch of neroli adds a bit of warmth, as does, to a larger extent, a smooth ylang-ylang that is sweet in a controlled way and neither especially rich nor creamy.
A touch of herbs - a nigh perfunctory duo of sage and wigs of thyme - lead is the he vanilla dominated base, which is givens a darker side by some cardamom, whilst an ambery but dull leather tries somewhat unsuccessfully to impress. This all is underlined by a generic woodsiness.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
This autumn scent packs together a large array of ingredients, but none of them really impresses truly. The jasmine is never developing its full potential, being often drowned in other notes. A similar fate awaits many other components of this blend, whilst some - the leather, the herbs and the amber - are simply too generic to make a mark. A complex concoction whose result is complex and not uninteresting, but a bit haphazardly assembled overall. 2.75/5
I'd actually give this a 3.5 overall. A lovely jasmine that goes on just a little too sweet for true love. After about 30 minutes to an hour, there is a sillage of light, lovely, slightly citrus flowers (maybe the neroli listed). Eventually it fades away to nothing. I like it but can't justify the cost, especially since I don't really love it. I happily used my sample, and I'd probably re-purchase another sample if it crossed my path, but don't need to go out searching for it.
Tom Fords Jasmin Rouge is the perfect example of how to do a fleshy white floral without going into the indole territory (which tends to smell like excrement of various kinds on me.) Ive heard that Muglers Alien is the scent that many women choose to wear clubbing. Jasmin Rouge is the scent they would choose to wear once that phase in their life has passed, theyve married a rich man and now attend classy dinner parties on the weekends. Theres a hint at that sexy carnal smell but its now smoothed down and refined, much like the woman I envision to wear this scent.
Theres of course the obvious jasmine note front and center in this fragrance but I feel that it must be paired with some other white floral note that gives it a delicate side I rarely see in jasmine fragrances, especially when the note is allowed so much of the spotlight without much to challenge it. Maybe its lily? Or a neutered tuberose/gardenia, but definitely not enough to overpower the integrity of the jasmine. Theres also a creamy note like vanilla but again not enough to drench the florals in a vat of sugary sweetness. I would imagine the ratio of florals to the vanilla or sweet note to be at least 3:1.
I dont get the thing from this fragrance that would make me think that this invokes anything related to rouge besides maybe finding this scent to be appropriate for a red carpet walk. I think that it could be worn anytime of the year, if applied sparingly in the heat and more generously in the cooler temperatures. I also could imagine this being the signature scent of someone who loves white floral perfumes.
Its not the most unique scent, but its one of the better done renditions of this combination of aromas and one of my favorite creamy white floral + vanilla scents that Ive smelled. This is what I hoped that Guerlains Terracotta would smell like on me, but that one gave me the indolic jasmine for a bit longer than I could comfortably stand. This one gives me wearable beauty from the very start, and Im in love from the moment it hits my skin until the end of the day when its barely detectable.
Speaking of, longevity and sillage are good by Tom Ford standards, but not his best, especially considering that it is a private blend and you are paying more for it than his mainstream releases. But youre paying for the obvious quality of ingredients here with an acceptable amount of mileage and for that reason I would say it is worth it. After retesting my sample, this goes to the very top of my list for Tom Ford perfume purchases. Yes, I have an entire list just for Tom Ford fragrances ... what can I say, I'm obsessed!
For me it opened with a bitter citrus rind and the bugspray / green waxy side of jasmine. But it quickly softened and sweetened with neroli and ylang. The midnotes definitely play up the sweet, warm bubblegummy aspect of jasmine with the banana-y ylang and the mexican vanilla. I was hoping for more spices like in Shanghai Lily. Maybe it's just my skin.
Unfortunately, without the animalic lust of jasmine or the interest of spices, this perfume has no teeth. It feels like an exercise in making a jasmine perfume that explores it's components - but jasmine never actually shows up to the party itself.
I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that it's hard to judge a perfume until I've actually tried to wear it. There's something about a perfume's texture, especially, that doesn't reveal itself until you put it on skin. Jasmine Rouge is a great example of this, because on the smelling strip I didn't get much from it--decent jasmine, I thought, and started to put it away. Then I casually applied some on one wrist just in case. What I smelled made me reopen my browser and start looking.
This stuff looks kind of crazy on paper, with a long list of exotic spices that would lead the reviewer to expect some sort of Orientalist fantasy carpet. But Jasmin Rouge has a touch of the gourmand supporting its jasmine, with those spices acting as mouthwatering garnishes to its underpinnings of (yes, that is really Mexican) vanilla.
When worn, the quality of ingredients in this perfume show in the way it envelops you in a cool, soft cloud of these usually loud materials--a comforting texture like freshly fluffed feather pillows. The real beauty of this fragrance lies there, in the sensation of wearing something both texturally alien and familiar.