Rogue Perfumery (2020)

Average Rating:  6 User Reviews

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About Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery

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Rogue Perfumery
Fragrance House
Manuel Cross

Reviews of Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery

There are 6 reviews of Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery.

Much anticipated, having long wondered what Manny's take on an incense frag would be. The opening is very soapy/shampoo-y/clean-fresh, and I don't know where that is coming from, given the notes pyramid. Then the incense, quite dark, not ecclesiastical, almost charred at one point. Once the opening settles, and the soap dies down, the frankincense and myrrh combo is very pleasant.

However, I then get wafts of soapiness coming back again, and these continue for the duration. I have to put my nose to my arm to get the incense : this smells like one thing from afar, and another close-up. That could be quite interesting : someone thinks you smell all clean, soapy, and ordinary, and as they get closer, you smell differently and unexpectedly of incense. Neat trick. I also get sandalwood, and lily in the drydown; but not the juniper. Despite benzoin, this is not particularly sweet. Am not entirely convinced by the soap-incense combination. The far drydown of incense, slightly sweet and powdery, and when the soapy note is not present, is awesome.

Longevity is excellent on skin - I imagine it would be even better on fabric.
Nov 23, 2020

Yes, definitely a ambery incensey aromatic forest smell in the same league as Lutens Fille en Aiguilles or to a certain extent Armani Onde Mystere. Grassy resinous frankincense (coniferous resins, dry berries from the forest?), redolent floral leaves, moss and myrrh are the main actors of this "coniferous/stuffy" olfactory fatigue by Rogue. Opening features a bright accord of citrus, aromatics and frankincense supported by cool forest resins and juniper. The note of frankincense smells vaguely barber-shop, mossy-aromatic and kind of "vintage chyprey". In a while, as the composition enters in its central stage, the sweet side of the juice takes off and I get benzoin, spicy/sugary resins and dry floral patterns before the aroma starts developing towards a final drier (still sweet and resinous) woody base in which I detect burnt spices, intense floral notes (lily, jasmine as well?), dry woods, dry leaves (tobacco?) and musk. Ishtar (under my nose) is basically a modern neo-vintage aromatic mild-resinous gentleman’s fragrance with spicy/floral/resinous elements and a "stuffy" chypre undertone ready to unveil its hidden spark. Juniper, citrus and lily (especially in the top stage) support frankincense in order it to turn out bright, soapy, aromatic and lively while benzoin and myrrh afford a sort of oriental soul which (as connected with sandalwood, hesperides, stuffy moss/forest resins and dry leaves) unveil a sort of stuffy/camphoraceous/musky undertone (vaguely a la Acampora Musc). A well blended flory-oriental composition for all the lovers of "gentlemen" sweet dry-mossy olfactory creations.

Nov 14, 2020

Stardate 20200812:

Starts with sweet piney incense and cardamom. Within a few minutes it veers towards the Fille en Aiguilles territory. Ambery incensy forest smell.
The drydown is more pungent and reminds me of One Man Show sans Galbanum.
I like the way it develops and I would give it neutral to thumbs up.
Aug 12, 2020

A sparkling, nose-tingling, piney-lemony frankincense, with a pinch of cinnamon & the bitterness of myrrh. lt's kind of metallic, not soapy at all to my nose, & l'd say it leans masculine. One of the reviews makes much of the sweetness here, but l don't really get that, although the bitter sharpness recedes over the first hour, & then it's more smooth & woody. l get a whiff of lily if l put nose to skin, but otherwise this note is not obvious to me. Four hours in there's just a slight sweetness from the benzoin, & later l swear l get a note of smoky tobacco. It all lasts a good ten hours before fading out.

l agree with others here that this is a summer incense, in the same ballpark as Passage d'Enfer, but less floral. lt's not a love for me, but certainly an interesting & different take on incense.
Jul 17, 2020

Ishtar opens with sugary sweet benzoin, spiked with fresh, pine-like juniper before moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the aggressively sweet, slightly cinnamon-like benzoin remains, now joining almost makeup-like, slightly powdery frankincense and nutty/woody smelling myrrh with a musky undertone. During the late dry-down the composition eschews most of its sweetness, leaving a gentle powdery sheen with remnants of the frankincense joining an unveiled supporting slightly sweet sandalwood through the finish. Projection is good to very good, and longevity average at around 8 hours on skin.

I may as well cut right to chase, Ishtar is a disappointment. No, it is not in any way horrible smelling, but rather surprising in the wrong way. I knew going in that the perfumer was going for an incense focused perfume, but nothing prepared me for *this* kind of an incense focused perfume. For one, the benzoin in the composition is ratcheted up to a near unbearable level to the sweet-averse like this writer, and then the presentation of the frankincense is of a powdery nature that only makes the relative sweetness all the more unwelcome. After the sweetness nearly vacates when the perfume reaches its rather bland and generic powdery, woody late dry-down, one has to wonder if getting to it was worth the trouble? I say, "No." The truth is the perfume is better smelling than I make it out to be in this short blurb, but with so many spectacular offerings from the house, one can't help but be let-down by this rather mundane, sugary sweet concoction that most likely appeals more to modern styled mass market du jour perfume wearers, than the classically structured perfume aficionados most of the Rogue offerings do. The bottom line is the $125 per 60ml bottle Ishtar, like the unrelated movie of the same name despite high expectations, disappoints with a very "average" 2.5 stars out of 5 rating and an avoid recommendation, except to more modern styled sweet perfume lovers.
Apr 2, 2020

A very fresh and invigorating opening. To my nose the frankincense in the opening contains a bright citrus like feel. It is clean, airy, and inviting. The lily florals and junipers could be detected in the heart. The juniper doesn’t come off as medicinal like in some scents (An example Creed Baie de Genievre). With the juniper present, there’s a tad bit of a cinnamon like note with the faintest amount of incense present. The lily notes adds a layer of freshness. Eventually the scent transforms into something both more oriental and woodsy. The benzoin adds a sweetened vanilla like note while the myrrh and sandalwood contribute to the woodsy like base. My initial thought was that this would be something somewhat similar to another frankincense (Creed Angelique Encens) but it was not the case at all. It lacks the strong stuffy smokey incense that one may notice inside a church or cathedral. The performance starts off strong but recedes to something more moderate as time passes. Overall this is a nice addition to a great line of fragrances.
Apr 2, 2020

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