Leave it to Pierre Guillaume to invest a resins-focused oriental with a cool, aerodynamism. Iris Oriental zips out the sprayer, sleek and ready to go and the myrrh-like core of it (with overtones of dark woods) instead of radiating warmth has a more temperate pulse. Even the dabs of honey don't slow this thing down. But eventually, there is only so much masking of the nature of this beast, and its footfall begins to get a bit heavier, the wood notes become a bit more evident, and the mercury begins to rise. There seems to be a large dose of cardamom providing the sole spice note and very little by way of iris.
I find the promise made by Iris Oriental's opening act isn't kept when it turns into a more familiar resinous-woody occupying this family's middle ground.
An iris fragrance with refined gourmand edges of vanilla, honey and there's an initial fleeting impression of chocolate. Though cardamom is listed, it's not discernible as such, nor is any other spice. There is a distinct woodiness that comes to the fore once the fragrance settles on skin. This iris-woody accord forms the central structure, with the sweeter elements as accents. Towards the dry down there is a shift towards a dry vanilla underpinning.
This is a respectable and solid offering, but personally it is a bit too undefined in its overall scent profile. A stronger emphasis on either the iris, or the woods - or even the gourmand elements would have been preferable. Also, anyone seeking an iris fragrance might be disappointed as it is not too iris prominent. Sillage is adequate, and longevity is acceptable at around 6-7 hours.
You get a lot of spices and a bit of honey. Don't expect iris. It's mostly cardamom.
It's not bad, but the name is misleading. I'd say it projects as masculine.
It's very similar to Indochine from the same company.
More oriental than iris, Iris Oriental wraps a rooty, ammoniac iris up in a thick blanket of resins, woods, spices, and a syrupy, souk-like amber, making for an iris that, although built for comfort and not speed, is far from sophomoric.
The treatment of iris here is quite novel. It is only really evident as a note in and of itself in the first hour or so, when it displays a high-toned, almost acid yellow fruity brightness that sings in the same register as bergamot. So when the slightly metallic iris root note begins to bleed into the lower layers of honey, amber, smoky resins, and woods, it's hardly any wonder that my mind flicks sideways to Shalimar. In fact, I credit Iris Oriental for making me understand, finally, just how important the iris note is in Shalimar. But Iris Oriental is not derivative or copycat; it references some of the building blocks of Shalimar but is its own creature. So much so that if you weren't a devotee of Shalimar like me, the connections might not even enter your head.
In maintaining such a careful balance between dry woods, spicy cardamom, smoky resins, wet honey, and powdery-fruity iris, Iris Oriental tends towards fuzzy abstraction instead of clarity. On cloudy, windy days when the grey threatens to swallow me up, Iris Oriental is a soft, honeyed thing made of spun sugar and gold to wear upon my person, like a protective amulet.
With iris fragrances sprouting like toadstools these days, I'm happy to report that Iris Taizo is not your standard issue orris root concoction. Whereas the majority of recent iris compositions range from rooty and earthy to demurely powdery, Iris Taizo goes in an entirely different direction. In fact, I'm not sure if it qualifies as an iris scent at all. I detect plenty of iris root alright, but the iris isn't really the featured attraction in this scent. Instead, Iris Taizo reads as a clean, fruity leather scent along the lines of Serge Lutens's Daim Blond or Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman.
While the iris root doesn't dominate the composition, it does steer the leathery base toward suede gloves, rather than equestrian tack or bikers' jackets. With an intense sweet-tart apricot and floral accord that's reminiscent of osmanthus at its heart, and a warm labdanum in the base, Iris Taizo is a dignified, comfortable, and eminently civilized fragrance. In mood and general structure, it reminds me of it's near-contemporary, Dior Homme. And while it will raise a few hackles if I say so, I see Iris Taizo as what the wildly overrated Dior Homme might have been were it a better scent; i.e. stripped of its ghastly, cheap Jolly Rancher candy note and given a more elegant and interesting drydown.
Sillage and projection are both moderate, so that Iris Taizo registers easily, but never becomes intrusive in enclosed spaces. Longevity is also more than adequate at six hours or more, during which the extended drydown is a treat. Though it's a bit sweet, I consider Iris Taizo to be gender neutral, and any man who's comfortable with Dior Homme should be able to wear this with ease.
Now called Iris Oriental - this is a lovely spicey, powdery iris scent. Sweet woody and loses some of the iris on my skin later as it dries down. It's good but not an iris I would buy for an iris craving. Unisex.