Iris de Nuit 
Heeley (2000)

Like many Heeley's, I find the cleanliness and precision attractive. There is a concentration on a structure that presents an uncluttered
Floral beauty. Iris is centre certainly, however it does melange gently into the other notes in such a way that hints at a transparency and yet a dream-like fuzz.
Drydown offers a soft powdered soap.
Very nice however I prefer touch of Castoreum and Cinnamon Violets of Cuir Pleine Fleur.

Blue Nude by Pablo Picasso 1902

The iris top note is very nice, on the bright sight, with an earthy component that is not compromising the elegance that characterises this iris. It blends quite well with the synthetic ambery vine in the drydown, that also includes a pleasant violet note together with a somewhat nonspecific woodsy base note.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst I am not mad about the second have of the development of this creation, this iris, whilst not competing with the great classics, is one of the very well executed contemporary iris creations. 3.25/5.

If there is anything to come out of this iris quest I've been on lately, it's that I really love Iris de Nuit. Pairing a fresh, carroty iris to a greenish violet, this fragrance manages to evoke both a rain-soaked English garden and the clean lines of the Chrysler building.

It's also one of those rare fragrances that clearly emits a color like other fragrances emit a sound or an image. If you're someone who experiences scents in a synesthetic way, then you must try this fragrance and tell me if you agree.

There is a wistful tone to this fragrance that reminds me somewhat of Après L'Ondee with its similarly doleful air. But although it shares some of its faintly anisic, herbal qualities, Iris de Nuit feels very much of this century – modern, streamlined, bound to this earth - not cut adrift in a permanent fugue state.

Iris de Nuit is a clean, transparent fragrance, but the ambrette seed adds a vegetal, muskiness that blurs the sharp edges of the violets and iris until it takes on a slightly “fur”-like texture. Angelica root imparts the green, mouth-sucking astringency of green rhubarb stalks, less of a smell than a crisp, herbal “taste” I can read with the back of my tongue. In the base, there is a slight herbal saltiness from ambergris and a haunting woodiness.

But the details hardly matter – you can't dissect such haunting loveliness. Every note in this fragrance knits in so tightly with the others that one gets just an overall impression of a series of overlapping tints and tones – duck-egg blue fading into violet and then night blue, like being inside a cubist's art installation or just standing on a dusty road somewhere watching darkness fall.

This is probably the cleanest iris scent I've tried so far, in a month-long search for an iris frag purchase. It started off with a whiff of rubber and salt, which says ambergris to me, and then it swung towards a fresh, clean but sophisticated iris and violet accord (violet definitely playing second fiddle here--just adding a sense of freshness) with a tickly little herbal edge. I think I'm getting some waxy orris butter as it comes together, but that may be a Jedi mind trick. The parts are definitely more than the whole.

This is definitely a dandy's iris (male or female)--neither powdery nor prim. With its cooling effect, this wears more like a splash. It has nice sillage compared to some of the other "straight" irises I've tried. We'll see how long it lasts.