I'm pretty particular about iris as a note, and it has to be done just right for me to like it. This one just came across as too sweet and powdery for me. The description below of a "dry powder candy vibe" is a pretty good description of what I got.
A nice, doughy iris with a mix of violet and ambrette on top that gives it a vibe that's simultaneously icy and like an old lipstick. There's a leathery suede undertone that (with thanks to Possum Pie for pointing it out) smells kind of like glue. Or, more specifically, the paste we used to make as kids using flour and water. There's a doughiness that calls to mind Mitsouko's doughy grease-paint note as well, while a boozy coumarin adds sharpness.
I like this. While, on the surface, it feels like a simple iris perfume, there's a lot of depth here. Thumbs up!
Like many Heeley's, I find the cleanliness and precision attractive. There is a concentration on a structure that presents an uncluttered
Floral beauty. Iris is centre certainly, however it does melange gently into the other notes in such a way that hints at a transparency and yet a dream-like fuzz.
Drydown offers a soft powdered soap.
Very nice however I prefer touch of Castoreum and Cinnamon Violets of Cuir Pleine Fleur.
The iris top note is very nice, on the bright sight, with an earthy component that is not compromising the elegance that characterises this iris. It blends quite well with the synthetic ambery vine in the drydown, that also includes a pleasant violet note together with a somewhat nonspecific woodsy base note.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.
Whilst I am not mad about the second have of the development of this creation, this iris, whilst not competing with the great classics, is one of the very well executed contemporary iris creations. 3.25/5.