Inverno Russo 
Areej le Doré (2017)


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Inverno Russo by Areej le Doré

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There are 3 reviews of Inverno Russo by Areej le Doré.

This is right out of some of the Malay-Indonesian Oil Perfumes I've nosed.
The lead is with cloves, set upon Exotic Florals, mostly Champaca and Musk, which can be heady by itself.
The Civet adds a slight naptha and high notepoints of Fecal to the mix.
As Starblind says, the delicate Florals are rather overpowered by the Musky, Tonka, Benzoin packet.
A slight bit more Citrus would bring out these delicates.
However this is, a Winter Fragrance and to further make that point the Nose has based this already heavy scent, with a Deep in Jungle darkness of rather Aristocratic Oud and a lick of smokey Cedar. The Betal Leaf acts like putting Cayenne warmth and fire in your boots.
Altogether, probably best suited to the Masculine brood.
And in Winter.

It's taken me a while longer than usual to write about INVERNO RUSSO. While it shares the same DNA as the amazing SIBERIAN MUSK, to pigeonhole it simply as a quieter, more floral rendition would be missing the mark.

The Siberian deer musk element has been toned down in here yet sports the same unmistakable velveteen signature albeit a touch more animalic, augmented as it were by the inclusion of synthetic civet. Someone thought it smells like 'butt', but I wouldn't go that far. It's definitely not skanky; to my nose it smells more like dried saliva on self-groomed felines and the few times I've worn it this animalic aspect harmonizes well with the white florals and the creamy-ambery base.

Sillage is adequate though I feel it doesn't project and envelope the wearer nearly as well as Siberian Musk.

The thing is it seems to wear a little differently every time I spritz some on my skin. On cool dry evenings my favourite aspect -the musky rose- hangs around longer, while on warmer humid days the florals are subdued and short-lived, the scent skipping right to the oriental base in as short a time as 2 hours. This is not a knock on the fragrance but a reality challenge especially if you happen to live in warmer climates and not in the frigid cold of a Russian winter.

Russian Adam thrilled and astonished me when he came out with Siberian Musk and Ottoman Empire, both of which are simply stunning fragrances that I am proud to own and love. Of his four brand new Areej le Dore scents, Inverno Russo is my favorite, although I find it surprisingly more challenging to wear than any of his earlier releases. The oud and the musk and the civet render this fragrance decidedly animalic--not stinky or skanky, per se--but in a dark, chewy, chocolate-mixed-with-oud sort of way. And there is even a tiny, almost naphthalene-like note that adds to its indolic character. This rich noir-ishness reminds me of the plush, velvety texture of certain vintage scents by Lanvin and Patou that I adore and miss, although I find Inverno Russo a bit less balanced than these older frags. Here, the darker aspects seem to override the florals--something that is especially noticeable when sprayed on clothing. I have a feeling that the oud Adam used here is partly (or primarily) responsible for this scent's unusual darkness and depth, but there are also some notes here I am unfamiliar with (e.g., Indonesian gaharu boya and betel leaf) that may be contributing, as well. While the beautiful florals combined with the clove and cardamom and sandalwood, recall Adam's own Ottoman Empire, Inverno Russo's far deeper base takes this scent into decidedly different territory. I think many will find IR's oudy and animalic nature compelling, while I find it just a bit too 'bottom heavy' to enjoy as a daily wear.

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