Hiris
Hermès (1999)

Plangent drops of iris fall like cold rain
on crumbling wood and bitter amber.

A Chopin Nocturne is played
and mourners stand around, their heads bowed.

The temperatures have finally dipped to comfortable levels after unseasonably hot May days. The breeze comes through the window and the Hiris on my skin shifts through the air like a blue apparition.

It opens cool, yet not steely, more a salve of rosy, violet-tinged carrots and powdered rhizomes of all kinds. Then, there's a beautiful "key change," as it were, a minor key resolved to major. It smells not merely of orris root but what I perceive when one were to get intimate with one of those large, ghostly, translucent bearded irises, after the rain, damp, its pendant-like pedals saturated, leaves and stems. I did just this in a garden at Acton Arboretum here in MA this past weekend. What a mysterious scent that comes from certain iris flowers themselves if one is to lean in closer. Hiris seems to capture this in its heart.

The base is a phosphorescent cedar, glowing as if foxfire, bubbled woody ionones, traces of bitter almond, saponified dried roots and bark, still cool, still calm. It isn't any wonder that Olivia Giacobetti is behind this understated genius given her many contributions to L'Artisan Parfumeur and her skill in impactful translucency.

A much friendlier Feminine Iris to my Masculine skin Vis a Vis that most opulent Xerjoff.
This, from a boy who will top anything, with Truffled Foie Gras.
The charm of this scent is it's delicate, sculptured composition and gentle season of Coriander.
The Rosy Pink Petals wrap the cool, carroty Orris.
Cedar applied with care, to offer a mild Woodiness.
Sweetened with a dash of Vanilla Sugar countered with a whiff of Dry Clean Hay.
Ambrette has this finish ala nettoyer le linge.
Yummy!

She might have one dress, but that dress is always passing and clean and tidy. She is a charming french lady hosts afternoon tea partiers with society women. It reminds me of the sunlight you can see clash though the clouds on a rainy day, the kind of light that looks almost like a clairvoyance on the sky. Earthy, elegant, delicate, powdery, clean, versatile, classic yet modern.

At first spritz there is a burst of carnation mixed with the dreamy waxy iris and the touch of neroli. The carnation abates and then the rose becomes evident as well giving her some added vibrance. The persistence of vanilla and honey keep it from staying too soapy. It's ethereal and slightly wistful but also optimistic. Like a garden of irises after heavy rain. performance is great.

Iris, carrot and coriander are the unequivocal component ms in the opening triad. The iris is delicious in its intensity and quite typical in its character; this a clean iris The carrot is well done too, and the coriander with its slightly tart touches blends in very well. This quite a unique opening.

The drydown add bundles of dry hay, combined with a rose that is rather light, a bit mundane and more in the background on me. Hints of néroli add a bit of brightness.

The iris still is going strong, and does so well into the base. Touches of a dry almond-infused vanilla and of cedarwood are present, but they are very weak compared with the earlier stages. A musky undertone owed to the ambrette seed joins in at a later sees it out until the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

In this autumnal scent it is the first half that truly convinces, be it by the good representation of the iris, or by the original approach that is taken. The second half is less titillating, but it is crafted well always. Overall 3.5/5.

Hermes Hiris is a rival in my list of olfactory delights to Lutens' Iris Silver Mist. A blast of purely beautiful, dry, suede-like orris greets the nose on first exposure. This deepens, but slowly, with the coriander and hay notes very subtly supporting the orris. The reserved use of the cedar and almond woods gives it a slight edge, but never permits it to become bitter or off-putting.

I await the honey and vanilla dry down, but for me it never arrives. No matter, I am happy with what I have.

Orris based scents, when properly done, are entirely unisex, in my opinion. Depending on body chemistry the genre can seem cold and aloof, or warm and earthy. Hiris seems equally at home with both men and women.

As a rival to Iris Silver Mist, Hiris comes out ahead due to its very affordable price in comparison with the Lutens, and its availability since the Lutens has up until recently only been available as an import from Europe.

To summarize one of the very best iris based scents available, expertly balanced and blended and a joy to own.