Herrera Confidential : Mystery Tobacco
Carolina Herrera (2016)

Undoubtedly 'Quentin Bisch' in delivery, the aromachems are the main star once again.

This is no way similar to Bois Imperial, but it has the same 'synthetic' feel to it, if that makes sense. Mystery Tobacco is boozy, leathery feeling, with a dark, mysterious 'aura', but the chemical bite was just too much for me.

I seem to be very sensitive to the types of materials that Mr. Bisch' uses, as the sweetness just compounds the "screaming" for me. It's not the garmound sweetness found in modern club scents, but the sweetness derived from certain types of leather. This is "one of those" leathers, the variety you don't want to wear in summer.

All in all, a respectable fragrance that may very well resonate across the spectrum of fans, but this is simply not for me. At this price point, I expect better quality materials, but I haven't found a Herrera that didn't have a chemical bite to it.

5/10, weighed heavily by my personal preferences

A luxe, smooth interpretation of Middle Eastern opulence, Mystery Tobacco is undoubtedly "bougie" but nevertheless compelling in its willingness to eschew the modern trend to drown tobacco in gourmand sweetness. Mystery Tobacco borrows the vocabulary, synthwoody backing, and high-end pricepoint positioning of the Tom Ford Private Blend line, but not its penchant for bombast. Mystery Tobacco earns its name; it's comparatively subdued to some of the other entrants in the "exotic tobacco" category, a smoky and dark and dry concoction with an aura of shadowy intrigue.

Mystery Tobacco opens with a spiced floral-fruity sweetness, somewhat plummy, but that impression largely survives only throughout the opening. Mystery Tobacco quickly shifts into a dry, woody vein. The tobacco accord, more evocative of fine cigar tobacco than of the juicy, damp experience of shisha, moves front and center. This tobacco is dry with a bitter edge coming from the patchouli (a subtler, more complex version of the effect achieved in Robert Graham Fortitude, which blends tobacco, tonka, and a sour patchouli). I detect some distant burnt sugar sweetness, with a powdery element coming from the tonka, which is used here as a blending note to soften synthwoods rather than as a distinct presence.

It's easier to think of richer or more complex tobacco scents in this style, but Mystery Tobacco doesn't go for showstopping fireworks. Instead, it offers a kind of smoldering intensity paired with an aloof, confident formality.

It wears pleasantly but linearly, perhaps to a fault; there are no revelations to come beyond the first hour of wear. Projection is modest, but longevity is commendable.

The opening is fresh and dirty at the same time with citrus, tobacco and green vetiver. The drydown is a nice, dry tobacco with just a little burnt sugar sweetness.

Mystery Tobacco resembles Pure Havane mostly and a little bit of Phaedon Tabac Rouge but it has more spice and is more dry than both, less sweet as well.

Performance is great, both in projection and longevity.

A totaly warm, truly unflinching and luxurious (arabian in style) woody tobacco's rendition from the luxury Carolina Herrera's line: Herrera Confidential. Tobacco is dry, herbal, woody and supreme. Ginger enhances the initial drama. Vague feels of honeyed caramel and liqueur perfectly match and complete the stout carnal accord of woods, dry spices, bitter herbs and tobacco. Frankly my humble nose is unable to catch any osmanthu's spark. Dry down is quite bold, supremely masculine and mysterious. I detect a vague burnt sugar-accord. If you want cheaper (similar though not entirely close) kinds of this one's popular "Brothers" stick to the "fresher" Armani Code Profumo, Viktor&Rolf Spice Bomb, or to Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum.

Mystery Tobacco immediately leaves the impression of being very good, and up there among the best/most popular tobacco fragrances that are most often referenced when discussing the genre (Tobacco Vanille, Odori Tabacco, Herod, 18.21 Man Made, Pure Havane, Franck Boclet, etc.). That's just the immediate feeling it gives off--a high quality, natural, well-made tobacco, able to compete with all the rest. And it's probably better than most of them...

What I first noticed about this one, is that the tobacco itself is not adulterated by an overload of gourmands notes, spices, booze, or anything else.. Many tobacco scents are just partially so--they may be 25% tobacco, but contain larger proportions of other notes like vanilla, cinnamon, rum, or leather. Even in fragrances with 'tobacco' in the name, the note itself may only appear in a supporting role, or at most, sharing the spotlight with something else. That doesn't mean that some of these fragrances aren't very good--because scents like Tabac Rouge and Ambre Narguile are some of the best around--but it does mean that you may be left a little unsatisfied, and wanting a little more...tobacco. True tobacco fragrances are rare.

Mystery Tobacco puts the tobacco note right at the front and center of the composition. It's a natural tobacco, and smells like a combination of freshly harvested, golden tobacco leaves, and darker pipe tobacco, a hint smoky, with chocolate-like patchouli accents, and a wonderfully-creamy tonka base beneath it all. The tonka is subtle at first, until you hone in on it and realize its undeniable presence in the overall structure. There's also a fresh, lively spiciness infused throughout Mystery Tobacco which balances the tonka and darker aspects of the tobacco and patchouli. This is an important element in the fragrance as it keeps Mystery Tobacco from becoming too dark and heavy, which can ultimately be a drag to wear--you want your fragrance to have at least some sort of levity and ebullience, and the ginger does a good job of affecting that here. Overall, this is a mostly linear fragrance, with the creamy, roasted qualities of the tonka emerging more over time, along with some of the earthiness from the patchouli. The tobacco remains present from beginning to end.

Performance is better than above average, as it has 12 hours-plus longevity and very good projection. This one gets out there well, though (to its credit) I wouldn't quite describe it as "nuclear," and that's because of the fragrance itself and how it's composed. It's not one loud, thick wall of scent that's going to smack you in the face, but rather a very diffusive, yet substantial and aromatic tobacco with good range and sillage. I sprayed it a few times in a room upstairs and was able to catch sweet wafts of it all throughout my house. But even in the room where I sprayed it it wasn't overwhelming or clogging it up.

I do not think this smells like any other tobacco scent on the market right now--at least that I've smelled--though it may have some qualities that remind you at times of certain other tobacco's. What's really nice about Mystery Tobacco is that it presents a true tobacco fragrance--placing the note right at the forefront of the composition--while embellishing it just enough with other notes to make it interesting, alluring, and enjoyable enough to be something that you would really want to wear. You're not going to smell like a birthday cake garnished with a single tobacco leaf, but you also won't smell like your old uncle when he's glued to his favorite armchair smoking his evening pipe. The tobacco accord is smooth and natural, and given enough depth and dimension to drive the fragrance. Two or three sprays should be plenty with this. If you can find it, Mystery Tobacco is well worth sampling. If it wasn't for its expensive price tag, I'd recommend it as a blind buy. As of now, I'm giving it a final rating of 9/10, with the potential to be a 9.5.

I went on a buying spree a few months ago trying to find a favorite tobacco fragrance. I bought all of the big names as well as a couple of niche as well. After wearing them all several times I can say that the CH Mystery Tobacco is the clear winner of all of them.

It isn't too sweet (I'm looking at you, Herod) and also manages to keep from being too one-note like several other tobacco fragrances do. Plus the longevity was better on this than the others I tried as well, which is always a big plus for me since I need my fragrances to last the entire day.

I've added it to my list to buy as a full bottle once I've finished all the tobacco samples I ordered... which could be a while.