Perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena says:
During a visit to the Forbidden City in Beijing, I was captivated by an exquisite smell that led me by the tip of my nose to the Imperial Palace, where osmanthus bushes were in bloom. In November, despite their tiny size, the flowers exuded a strong scent of apricot and freesia. I imagined combining these blossoms with a tea from Yunnan, the most beautiful province in China… and the idea for the fragrance was born.
Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan fragrance notes
- tea, orange, freesia, osmanthus, apricot
Where to buy
Latest Reviews of Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan

Be that as it may, Ellena's creation here is full of presence, and his minimalism works to his benefit here. The osmanthus uses the natural absolute with other materials to broaden and exalt the accord, and the tea is a natural pairing—I do love to sip osmanthus tea, with its bittersweet, floral, apricot flavor. There are citrus and herbal facets that come through as well, and hints of that smoky undertone that we come to expect from black tea.
I also praise Ellena's restraint with the leather as this transitions into the heart, seamlessly, appearing to use Suederal or something similar in a way that I can appreciate, nuanced and clear. This is a perfect fragrance for a space of reflection or introspection. Apply some of this, write in a journal, read some poetry, or just let your mind meander. If worn for others, having intimate company and your willingness for others to lean in will result in others potentially appreciating it as well.

It also happens that my favorite black tea is from Yunnan province. The perfume doesn't smell like that, either.
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I expected more of an apricot flair...

Since osmanthus is an autumn flower, I always apply this in autumn, but recently I realized it projects better in warm weather. So this is going to be my late summer fragrance.

I have to put my foot down here and call a spade a spade as I just wasted $250 on a blind buy of Osmanthe Yunnan. First of all, take all the high praise this has received and push it to the side, because none of it matters when YOU CAN'T EVEN SMELL THE SCENT 10 MINUTES AFTER APPLYING IT! This is one of the worst examples "transparency" I've come across in perfumery. It is so light as to basically be imperceptible. Even as a skin scent it is extremely light. And it's BORING. It's highlight is a 2 minute flash of a juicy orange and apricot smell, and that's the extent of anything remotely interesting about this scent. The juicy orange quickly dies down, and now, barely breathing, emanating about 1 millimeter off of your skin you may smell a vague, floral apricot smell. It gets even quieter and then Osmanthe Yunnan turns into what smells like a dull piece of suede leather or very bland, unremarkable "tea." As I've mentioned, all of this occurs on the skin, but not a millimeter beyond it. Well, it's a personal scent. NO, It's not. I can't even smell it for my own personal enjoyment. And when I can smell it it's all so unremarkable. Really, this was a huge let down. If you absolutely need to get your nose on this, make sure to sample it. It is not a safe blind buy. I've heard so many euphemisms used to describe OY: 'sheer,' 'transparent,' 'gossamer,' 'like silk' and I have to shake my head and ask "why?" Just be honest with yourselves and the public--this stuff is WEAK. No way around it. Thumbs down.

What becomes important, then, is whether it's a match for my skin and living space. Osmanthe Yunnan is nice, it's easy-going. But at this level it's competing with natural blends designed specifically for the energy body at better prices. Some of those, healthy and supportive of the skin/aura, also have fantastic subtle fragrances, like a spa treatment. And they feel great.
I like OY, but because of the niche it inhabits, it's almost subliminal presence, I might often prefer a more aura-oriented fragrance. But I still like it, though not FBW.


Heavenly Attraction by Farshchian

Soon the ismanthus develops, and whist is is in the foreground for a while, the initial impression is weakened by the fact that the the osmanthus weakens soon, and from then on stays in the background.
A fruity tea note, a very gentle white floral tea note develops and merges with the fruity notes. This is a tea note that is not very exciting in itself, but it provides a lovely counterpoint as well as a complimentary aroma that blends in well.
I get soft sillage initially, adequate projection - initially - and an unexpectedly excellent longevity of eight hours on my skin - albeit very close to it.
This is a very restrained, at times weak spring scent, which after the first couple of hours is basically a skin scent. So is it too weak? Well, whilst it is a skin scent for most of its duration, it is well structured and the components, and especially the eponymous osmanthus remains with admirable persistency present until the end.
Is this sheer and simple diluted weakness or an array subtle impressionist touches on a pastel
canvas? On my skin it is the latter. A few extra sprays are, however, definitely needed.
A weak fruit tea in a very thin bow with just enough aroma after a long brew. 3.25/5.

However, the osmanthus disappears within 20 seconds and leaves behind a very soft, dry peach tea, specifically white tea. A delicate watercolour fragrance suitable for days where you don't want to stand out too much. It's pleasant and well realised, but it's not osmanthus anymore. Alas.
