Hermèssence Brin de Réglisse 
Hermès (2007)

This is the only Hermessence that I own (for now), and this simply because, while many of Ellena's impressionistic and minimal compositions in the line are captivating and beautiful, I just can't see myself paying anything close to the full retail price. The others I've sampled are simply too introverted and diaphanous to warrant adding to my already sprawling collection that already includes equally lovely introspective scents that have proven to be more affordable. This is coming from someone who by no means obsesses over the performance of fragrance.

However, I found Brin de Reglisse for a shockingly reasonable price and this just so happened to be one that most interested me from what I sampled. A bittersweet, earthy, melancholy opening that gives me the same sensation as the gorgeous Serge Lutens Gris Clair, but here, we have this classic fresh mown hay accord and licorice that makes for a thoughtful variation on the lavender aromatic style. It's so gauzy and sheer, a delight for the olfactory receptors, and rather calming and reflective. It is true that much like the other Hermessences, this one doesn't have a ton of fuel, but it isn't quite as fleeting on my skin as others have suggested. It's the intimacy of this scent that begs for someone to come closer. It reminds me that we all could use some more hugs in this day and age.

But no one would be getting a Brin de Reglisse hug from me after paying 300 dollars. Brilliant for a 1/3rd of the price, however.

The opening of Brin de Reglisse is medicinal and very intriguing combination of herbal lavender and black licorice or anise. The combination of these two cooling medicinal aromas is fascinating and has a very clean cooling effect. But "not cool" soon arrives with a waft of orange blossom which corrupts the herbal green lavender into a quaint lavender flower which smells dated and dowdy. Fortunately the fragrance is so short lived that this floral lavender doesn't last long. The opening licorice and lavender is so fresh and original that this is still a thumbs up for me, but the ending is a bit of a disappointment.

Wonderful authentic, dry, rich burst of Lavender in the opening, full of unmistakable quality... followed by a juicy liquorice note. Very well made.

Brin de Réglisse is Jean-Claude Ellena's take on Lavender, and for this he chose Liquorice - another note which has some olfactive similarities to the herb (he also managed a similar choice of combination with Vétiver Tonka). It's dry, almost caramel like quality pairs with the deep lavender to give a very rich, authentic feel... like standing in a lavender field in summer eating liquorice. The hay is also a wonderful choice here, which really evokes the natural and dry, herbal feel of this fragrance.

I also suspect there may be other notes at play here such as immortelle, with a dry, burnt-sugar and herbal feel, or maybe a hint of vanilla and orange blossom. Either way, Brin de Réglisse has one of the best lavender and liquorice notes in any perfume I've tried. It's transparent, as is Ellena's style. But, much like Vétiver Tonka, although I do like the combination... there are better interpretations of lavender and liquorice in other perfumes out there. Dior's Eau Noire comes to mind, which smells much more authentic than this (it's also a lavender liquorice combo). Overall I do really like this one, I just wished it gave me a little more.