Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé 
Hermès (2004)

Fruity, cinnamon, amber.

Like warm apple pie...

Ambre Narguilé is a reference gourmand amber, exploring the honeyed tobacco theme. There are vague fruity notes, very expertly edited, that brighten the composition. There are light spices, mostly cinnamon. There is some reference to an apple pie, but it's important to note that Ambre Narguilé is abstract as one would expect; it doesn't literally smell like a dessert or a shisha. It is very minimally smoky, quite sweet, and there is a chic elegance about it. Definitely somewhat dressy, more smart casual than casual, and excellent in all seasons with good duration and an enjoyable sillage. Ambre Narguilé wears like a comforting shawl in winter, and warmer weather brings out the tobacco and fruity notes.

Among "amber" perfumes Ambre Narguilé is quite unique. I find some similarities in 'personality' with Ambre 114, but the latter doesn't have the overly gourmand notes in the Hermès. Ambre Narguilé has inspired several later compositions, but hasn't been bettered.

There is an exuberant optimism about this perfume, maybe because of the brightness and sweet notes. I think that makes it popular and well-liked. I appreciate more the moodier perfumes, the ones that have a bit of gloom - either apparent, or beneath the surface. I can't wear Ambre Narguilé for too many days in a row.

4/5

I love Oajan so there was a fair chance that I would love this one too. And I do.

Beautifully constructed. Apple pie, cinnamon and tobacco.

A little quiet on my skin which is why I prefer Oajan.

8.5/10

Absolutely wonderful apple pie with cinnamon and rum. Beautiful creation and extremely gourmand to the point that you can taste it. Strong projection and great longevity as well. There isn't much more to say on it.

5/5

Card Players (5th version) (ca.1894-1895) by Paul Cezanne -- Musée d'Orsay

Ambre Narguilé is by far the most talked about perfume from Hermes' higher-end line and is frequently described as an “apple pie in a bottle”. I personally don't fully agree with that popular description. While I can easily get where that comparison comes from, it'd be much more like a raisin (and maybe prunes too) pie to my nose. A warm, almost burnt/lightly smoky one that was taken out of the oven just in time. One with a lot of spices, like an overdose of cinnamon and with honey and a touch of rum.

But at the same time its name “Narguilé”, or “Hookah” in English which is a pipe of eastern origin to smoke tobacco (And some other "stuff"), is aptly chosen as it does have an aura around the spicy dessert of dry but a little damp and even slightly medicinal tobacco. It plays a big factor in the sense that it counterbalances very well the dense amber-y, bakery like part and prevents the scent from being too sweet to me. I'd say it also gives it a classier and more grown-up aspect.

The result is a fragrance that is right at the crossroad between being a gourmand and a spicy oriental. And being from Hermes, it's made with great ingredients as usual.

It's easy to me to recognize its appeal and wearable originality. At first I liked it, now it's a strong love. In conclusion, it's totally deserving of the love it gets.