Hemlock
Parfums Quartana (2016)

Weirdness and juxtaposition of opposite elements are several of the key words to define this avant-gard american perfume-house rounding around the Six Scents Parfum's experimental fields. Hemlock is basically a liquorous spicy tonkinian semi-oriental fragrance performed with interesting effects (at least on my skin) by Christelle Laprade. The note of martinique rhum (rounded up by vanilla and tonka bean) is immediately heady in its super-spicy and floral vest, while eliciting a sort of dandy/exotic (and at same time kind of "agricole") aura full of caribbean beat and rhythms a la Jazz Club by Maison Martin Margiela (finally darker, less floral and more focused on tobacco and vetiver-oil). Another fragrance jumping on mind is the "rhythmic" 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana which is fruitier (and with a liquorous vibe mostly provided by ripe fruits and burnt sugar with just a tad of liquor). Spiciness (provided especially by cinnamon, pink pepper and cloves and initially kind of vaguely buttery) is quite sweet but gradually tending to reduce its "sugar" and to perform in a more restrained way supported by floral leafiness, citrus and synthetic rubbery patterns in a sort of unisex luxurious vest. Gradually pepper and saltiness (the landmark Quartana's well calibrated salty presence) restrain the benzoinic rhum finally turning it down in to something more piquant, musky and suedish. The juice smells vaguely sultry on this middle-final stage, quite sexy, floral, suedish and "sweaty". This is a night time "vynilic-musical" juice which could seriously appeal along hot rhythmic tropical nights, with that typical Quartana's exotic salty/sweet sultry vibe. There are several woody notes which reinforce the general structure. I don't know about Black Vynil accord but I suppose it has provided a sort of rubbery "xerox-tonerish" twist which I vaguely perceive since the beginning and which counterparts the dirtiness exhaling from spicy agricole liquor and the saltiness. Unfortunately the lasting power is just barely moderate on my skin and this is a pity since the contrasting juxtaposed notes are really well blended and harmonized. Finally suede and mostly white flowers clean slightly up the "sultriness" and afford a sort of softly silky-poudree smell of nectar, talc and balsams (which is cleaner if compared with the more carnal first stages). I recommend the house of Quartana with its excentric creations to all those bizarre persons loving summer, far lands, rhythm, sensual dances and live music-ambiences.

Hemlock is perhaps the sweetest entry of Parfums Quartana's Les Potions Fatales that I've retried so far. It's a mix of the eponymous floral note, the infamous poison taken by Socrates, and a host of other notes (really, the note list is unusually long), which consist of other florals, woods and woods-like influences, and some spices, still with the whole blend being rather sweet.

The elephant in the room is the black vinyl accord, which is very effective, as the perfume smells of a vinyl record--in concert, of course, with the host of other notes, but still rather prominent in the mix. The particular mix of black vinyl, and say, clove and cinnamon, fosters an almost anise-like vibe, certainly sweet in its own way, but somewhat bitter, as well. There are also healthy doses of woods (leaves, sandalwood, amber wood) and sweet bits (vanilla, tonka, benzoin) that foster a sort of comforting blend. It's really a remarkable accomplishment to balance out all of these competing aspects---daring/comforting and natural/synthetic.

I'd classify it more as cold-weather-appropriate but it's not so dense and overwhelming as to not be befitting, say, a summer evening; I'd simply avoid wearing it in extreme heat since the black vinyl accord might become a little bit overwhelming itself under those circumstances.

Hemlock is a very good performer, as well, like Midnight Datura, and a little bit better than Digitalis or Lily of the Valley. Pricing for Hemlock is in the lower end of the range for this collection, $145 for 50ml, and like the rest of the collection, can be found at Perfumology, among a few other similar US boutiques.

This is yet another fragrance in the collection executed with care, intrigue, and some sense of dare.

8 out of 10

Well this is different. Not sure if this will get a neutral or thumbs up yet... First off this is for sure 100% warm vinyl records. Dang is it strong. Sloooooowwwwwlllllyyyyyyy other notes start to pop up here and there... florals and sweetness... leathery notes... patchouli... it's not so much a fragrance but an experience. For those who had or have vinyl records you will have a complete connection... Flash backs as a kid getting into my parents records... getting my first KISS Alive II vinyl when I was 7 years old... Just not sure I would wear this or when or to where... Vinyl record convention? Going with a slight thumbs up.... But TRY BEFORE YOU BUY....

Hemlock conjures the rather unique olfactory terrain of weed sap – greenish, somewhat lactonic, with an undertow of dustiness that I associate with pesticides. After an opening bright with bergamot and light, almost rain-soaked, green notes, a very dry and almost rubbery vanilla emerges supported by a cast of desiccated spice and resins. It has a powder puff quality to it, with traces of the skin such a thing touches, while the lingering greens have now turned a bit waxy, darker and brittle. How all this signifies weed sap, beats me; maybe I am being susceptible to its name.
A tempting oddity, if a tad demure. However, all the fun of this perfume is in the first couple of hours, after which it settles into a too-soft spicy vanilla.