Grev fragrance notes
- Copaiba, fir balsams, clove, birch, orris, cedar
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Latest Reviews of Grev

At first it smelled to me like a typical fougere from the 80's or even from 70's but man.. Grev has got so much more to it. Mint, (oak)moss, lavender (maybe?) and there's hell more lot to it. Keeps you entertained for sure, while you're wearing it.
First things first - it's got absolutely outstanding and lovely note of clove. At times it's being dominant, at times it's blended perfectly into the other notes. Personally - I prefer moments when it takes control, because I absolutely love clove as a note. It's also got a lot of oakmoss and some woods to make the scent round and complete.
It's not totally bold and challenging as, let's say Jeke or Sadanne, but it's not gonna be everyone's cup of tea.
It can be worn almost year round - probably best season is spring, but I absolutely love its smell in the high heat and humidity. That cooling factor and clove note are absolutely to die for.
Now I'm regretting a bit I didn't pull the trigger right when it was re-released in 2022.

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Of the three Slumberhouse fragrances I've tried, this is my third favorite after Baque and Sova. I might have liked Baque a little more than Sova. Baque did become a little generic and/or one-dimensional in the base, whereas Sova kept up a more linear foodie smell into the base, but Baque smelled a little more ambitious in the opening and early development.
Grev doesn't have the warmth of those two, and it's less inviting in its coolness, but not altogether unapproachable.
The development isn't great. The opening holds some hopeful promise, but before a couple hours are up, it has lost its way and smells overly sharp and a little harsh.

There's a good helping of bitter green booziness with a lightly sweet undertone. I think of an alpine bitter, like an icy Fernet-Branca: chewy, bitter, leafy, minty spice combined with something like wet clay.
Clove is an important note in Grev...but its a deconstructed, weightless, cryogenically frozen clove that has somehow been filtered and inverted to feel "blue" and airy. It ends up lending more of a fizzy, sparkly zest than the traditional warmth you think of with clove. This is some fascinating stuff.
I can't say I get much of a barbershop fougere tone here...maybe a barber in a wintery holodeck scene on the Starship Enterprise (nerd alert). I do smell a good dose of the cold dustiness of a slightly metallic orris note with a hint of smooth sandalwood, which becomes more dominant as the base arrives, and lends a certain degree of soft, chilly, airy powderiness. It may also be responsible for the earlier "clay".
This would be fantastic on a frigid, snowy day, but it's fairly versatile for any season or occasion.

Grev is of interest to me mostly insofar as it is completely different from the accustomed dense, syrupy Slumberhouse style. Grev is as bright, metallic, and hard-edged as scents like Baque, Vikt, and Ore are dark and viscous. There are facets to Grev that appear saline, camphoraceous, and sharply vegetal, yet I would not describe the overall effect as aquatic, green, or woody. What does stand out to me, and frankly makes the scent unwearable in my estimation, is a powerful, almost caustic, vinegar note, which some have described evocatively (and accurately) as pickle juice. An curious fragrance, all-in-all, but not something I want to smell on my own person.

From the note breakdown and prior reviews, I'd imagined a sort-of "lighter Norne with mint" and the reality is not so far-off.
Grev's mix of copaiba and birch contributes to the acerbic, semi-bitter side that I and others seem to analogize to a minty aspect, whereas the clove lends its usual heavy-handed spiciness, complete with powdery orris and the more subdued fir balsam and cedar combination.
Its opening blast is definitely sharper and spicier, with the dry down smoother and a bit more of a creamy/spicy mix along the lines of Montblanc Presence.
Grev is slightly masculine-leaning, given that it's varying degrees of spicy throughout its evolution, but it's unisex enough that I imagine anyonecould enjoy it.
And, as Grev's pale-colored juice might imply, the performance is noticeably a few notches below that of the darker-juiced compositions (pretty much all of the others that I own), though fans of Sadanne, Pear + Olive, and to some extent, Kiste, already know this to be the case.
Like Baque, I quite like Grev and am intrigued by it, but I'm not enthralled by it and wouldn't say that I love it. I wouldn't recommend it as a prime representation of the best that the brand can offer. Still, like Baque, I'm happy to keep my bottle and wear it from time to time, and also, like Baque, it's not as overpowering as most of the house's scents are (generally an asset, don't get me wrong), so it has a time and a place where it can be useful contra Sova, Zahd, Norne, Ore, Jeke, etc.
7 out of 10

But I impressed with Grev. It's Norne's bad sister. :)

Grev presents mint, clove, sandalwood, green leaf, suede, and a soapy touch in a rather low key package. Quite minty to start, this quickly gives way to the clove and a leaf and stem combo (birch leaf), mingling with sandalwood. The sandalwood was unexpected from reviews of the prior iterations, and it works beautifully to smooth things and to provide a woody framework. While the clove here is prominent, as every review notes, it does not dominate this 2015 scent.
A couple of hours in, the mint and anise are mostly gone, and the clove and leaf are settling down. At this point, the scent has subtly morphed into a wood-suede-herbs combo, set in damp plaster. There is also a clear, but subtle resin. Is that the copaiba balsam? No experience with that material. There is not a trace of either flowers or fruit, and nothing discernibly citric–although the clear suede note could well be the bergamot listed in the house notes for the Ltd Cask edition.
Projection is rather modest, in stark contrast to the reviews of the prior versions. The scent stays close, even with 3 sprays, but it ran all day.
I see Grev as the summer and early autumn sibling to the house's green spring scent, Mare; and an interesting counterpoint to the other SH fragrance occupying the summer/autumn slot in the line-up: Kiste.
Sidenote: the presentation is terrific–pale lime green juice in the new eliptical bottle with gun metal grey hardware. And the price is right--25% less than the rest of the line.
I've been looking for Grev for 2 years. Its worth the wait. Grev 2015 Ltd. is recommended to fans of minty and green-leafy fragrances, and should be sampled by folks open to unusual treatments of sandalwood and of woody aromatics generally. 4.5 stars


6/10
