Reviews of Furyo 
Jacques Bogart (1988)
DISCONTINUED

I blind bought this based on reviews here and on that other site that starts with an "F," and I am very happy with my purchase! Furyo is a "funky" fragrance that's right up my alley; for reference, I also like Yatagan, Chypre-Siam, Quorum, and Kouros which Furyo immediately reminded me of. I see "powdery" in its note tree which would normally make me hesitate, but this is more "dusty" and I like it. Performance is really very impressive as is it's price point on Amazon. Recommend.

The other day at the Osmothèque, Jean Jacques made an interesting comment. (He's the perfumer at Caron). He said perfumers tend to work with a limited number of materials, often around 200; which explains why their output may have a particular style.

It isn't just the fact they might be reworking the same idea in another perfume (the variations on Feminité du Bois are an example of this) there is also the limited palette to take into account.
So for example, if you had two paintings of similar subjects, and they were both done in maroon and dark grey, there would clearly be a resemblance.

And this is the case with Furyo and Salvador Dali pour Homme; both composed by Thierry Wasser in his early days.
To put it in a nutshell: Furyo (1988) is the polite version of Dali pour Homme (1987). Furyo goes light on the stinky aromatics in Dali and brings the fruity - powdery - woody side to the fore.

If you ever tried Dali pour Homme and found it too much, Furyo is the answer.
It's also better. The drydown is superb.

I truly believe that my 30ml in its alluring ruby red bottle is all I will need for the REST OF MY LIFE. One spray, that's it, under the shirt, and I smell like utter depravity—I love it. This is a take no prisoners RAUNCH MONSTER.

The smell of joss sticks, nether and hind quarters, amyl nitrate, dark bedrooms, seedy bar bathrooms.

Needless to say, Furyo isn't recommended as an office scent. I suppose it depends though on what type of 'office' to which you report...

And it gets compliments. Go figure.

8/10.

God only knows what we smelt like in the 80's before the restrictions on what goes in perfume. this is not a classy animalic like say Antaeus.it is a nice hot and sexy working class guy who likes to smell great and be an animalic magnet. classic 80s powerhouse.very virlie and masculine scent.yes i can understand how Furyo could be off putting for those who like today's fruity or sporty fresh fragrances.because this isn't a little boys fragrance,no this fragrance is the civet yowling and growling the mating call of the alpha male, this is a sexy scent,like an animal marking his territory, advertising for females in heat.

The fragrance corps juice starts with an animalic note mixed with herbs (fig leaf and lavender).in the heart he lights a cigarette,and suddenly you smell the smoke that comes out of his full lips, the light sweat from his body.and the smell, combined feels animal,debaucherous, lustful, hedonistic.the scent begins to unfold bringing camphoraceous notes and a sweet powdery base that lasts for ages.but the real star is the animalic accord-civet and musk.the impression is intimate like a bear's cave or lion's den.it has similarities to many 80's classics like Ted Lapidus PH and Hugo Boss Number One with a characteristic "urea" note from the civet but mixed with a soapy freshness,herbs.in fact it is so beautiful in it's primal musky animalic projection that is both a bit funky but lush and sweet.

Recently I acquired a bottle of Furyo that's current from it's extensive ingredients list on the box.

This opens up with a punch (I feel) is more hefty on civet than castoreum. The initial piss tone of the civet just sticks out more until dry down. I get a large note of jasmine that's linked to subtle amounts of sweet cinnamon, sandalwood, laurel, nag champa incense, and lavender. It's a dark red/exotically sweet and incense-ish (but not too sweet), and kind of leafy smell with a mildly soapy tone. The lavender note gets bigger and picks up the animalic notes and jasmine. I'll be blunt the whole floral and animalic note fusion shapes out a slight urinal cake smell. I'm usually not fond of the urinal cake association but Furyo is the exception. It's the slightly "new age" blend of notes that surrounds that urinal cake note. It's dirty sex in the bedroom while playing Enigma's "Principles of Lust" on the stereo.

Furyo's design I can detect some character similar to Kouros (1981). But Ron Winnegrad did use jasmine and animalics in an older fragrance of his called Leonard Pour Homme (1980). Furyo was a better fragrance than Kouros in my opinion and definitely was abstract. Furyo goes on heavy yet smoothens out balances out it's animalic/aromatic sides quite well. This was one that liked to stay close to it's wearer though so don't expect Kouros level projection.

Furyo is a musky, woody fragrance with a slight animalic twist. This is a crowded category (especially among vintages), but Furyo distinguishes itself with some wonderful touches of rose and jasmine, and a faint honeyed sweetness. The other accomplishment is that the emphasis is on the perfume rather than any shock value: it does very well on the Guy Robert test. Moreover, it doesn't emphasize 'masculinity', or being a 'powerhouse': there is definitely a subtlety here, as is a generous dose of romanticism. This possibly comes from the rich floral heart, and the slightly amber-y quality. The civet is there from beginning to end, but only to add a touch of sensuality.

The drawback is that the base appears somewhat thin, at least for my tastes. It's very engaging with a lush accord filled with subdued notes of amber, patchouli, and musk - but one would have preferred more richness. I find Furyo to exhibit moderate sillage, and good duration of six to seven hours on skin based on a conservative application of 4-5 sprays. Furyo is worthy of consideration if one's looking for an alternative to something like Kouros, but more floral, gentle and autumnal.


3.5/5

Ever have an "Oh my God" moment when spraying on a fragrance and taking it in for the first time? Well, I certainly had one with Bogart Furyo (1988), but more on that later. Bogart brought in some big guns with a young pre-Firmenich/pre-Guerlain Thierry Wasser, fresh off his perfume debut with Salvadore Dali Pour Homme (1987), coupled with Ron Winnegrad, the late-70's wonder perfumer who brought us both the original Lagerfeld/Lagerfeld Classic (1978) cologne and Dunhill Blend 30 (1978) in the same year. The two crafted a masculine floral musk that was part of a brief late-80's resurgence of the old Victorian style, and like several of its contemporaries was augmented with powerful animalics, building up and making more sophisticated takes the basic one-two punches of earlier powerhouses. Furyo was part of short-lived generation of slightly more genderbent powerhouses based on flamboyant fashions that were meant to carry men into the 90's in place of the macho bergamot/oakmoss/woods battle axes they were still wearing, but history would see to it otherwise. Much lighter, simpler, easier-to-understand fragrances rebooted men's perfume aesthetics back to functionality like the smell-alike barbershop fougères of the 60's, but with the added plus of being cheaper to produce and eventually focus-group-tuned for mass appeal. Poor old Furyo and friends would be lumped into the same dinosaur exhibit with the stiff oakmoss powerhouses they sought to replace, but with even less chance at legacy buyers because they were on the shelf for not even half as long. It's a shame really, but I can see why, as like with everything else in this special club, Furyo is very much a niche scent before ultra high-end perfume commandeered the term.

Furyo starts with a bizarre dandy-like fruits and flowers opening that instantly sets it apart from anything else in it's rare class. Traditional opening notes of lavender, artemisia, coriander, and bergamot are joined by fig leaf, juniper berries, and laurel. The berries and fig make themselves readily apparent right away, with the more conventional top notes blurring into a smooth accompaniment. Before long, you realize just how floral this actually is, and how it's predominantly a spiced rose incense scent, sitting somewhere between a dry woody rose, and a sweeter jammy damask rose and leather. The middle is where the Furyo rose lives, supported by indolic jasmine similar to other dandy men's florals from pasr eras, but lacks the grassy galbanium used to slightly neuter the femininity of that rose. Here in Furyo, the rose is polished with geranium and mulled with cinnamon then sweetened with vanilla. The top and middle are pretty wild, but in the base we get both urinous civet and the sharp, almost waxy castoreum, imbuing Furyo with the projection and sillage of Caesium-137, just without making your skin glow like a drum of nuclear waste. This sumo wrestler base has it's twin animalics further buffed with amber, patchouli (which definitely comes through after some skin heat), vetiver, oakmoss and incense. The end wear of Furyo is rich, sweet, inviting, yet frighteningly muscular and challenging, making me wonder if this was made to be both attractive and passively vetting of potential romantic liaisons all in one. Who dares wins when approaching a person wearing Furyo, that's for damned sure. Several people warned me of a heavy nag champa note in the base, and I have plenty of various nag champa incense, but I've burned enough of it to say that maybe this slightly compares to the smell of an nag champa soap, but not the actual incense when burned. I don't really get a nag champa vibe at all until very late anyway. Wear time is all day and sillage is weaponized, so beware. Best use is up to you.

Furyo deservedly gets recollections of room-clearing might from folks who used it back in the day, and despite it's floral delicacies, is every bit the horny monster -if not more- that the earlier powerhouses were. I don't believe I've smelled much stronger, and Perfumer Thierry Wasser seems most likely responsible for the very flirtatiously floral top and middle, while knowing Ron Winnegrad's past work, was likely responsible for the monster base that has not one but two scary animalics in it. The key underlying difference between Furyo and something like Chanel Antaeus (1981) is Furyo achieves it's massive power without being overly macho, since the animalics work under the other notes and not over top them, making it strong in an abstract way like some of the siren-song feminine powerhouses of the decade. This is easily my favorite of this late-80's transitional floral crowd, because it doesn't even try sitting on it's hand, and rather just goes out and gets what it wants with a rose corsage to soften the blow it lands to your ego. It's easy to see why this is the among the most difficult to find and more expensive of the universally-discontinued lot, since it's got both performance and unique character, while the rest usually have just one or the other. If you do end up tracking this down and buying a bottle, please be careful with application, as even a standard three-spray to neck, chest, and face will leave you gasping in a cloud for a good hour. I mean, what do you want for a fragrance with a name that translates roughly from Japanese to "prisoner of war"? I was excited, enticed, and scared all at once, hence my reaction. Just please, whatever you do, sample this if at all possible before you believe all the hype (including mine), or you may regret it. This stuff pulls no punches AT ALL. Thumbs up

Yo! Furious fur here. Good indolic jasmine and a nag champa like incense come across similar to honey. Civet, castoreum, and/or those indoles? Surely something is responsible for its growl! Amber too, and it's one peculiarly attractive oriental. As with other Bogart offerings, Furyo is a great scent to reach for when a 50lb sledge hammer is the right tool for the job. When more refinement is required I reach for Balenciaga pH.

I remember really loving Furyo back when I was in college. I never owned it because I always felt the animalistic aspect would be off putting to females, yet friends owned it and would pull it off. I happened upon a open bottle in a discount store recently and it was like I was in 1989 again. However, aspects of the fragrance seemed quite different to my mature nose today. First, I recall a much greener scent, with a big bite of laurel in the center. I mostly get clove, cinnamon and perhaps a touch of jasmine flower, which is altogether lighter and smoother than what I can recall. Also the animalistic aspect is toned down and it seems to have a more common patchouli and amber base, which gives it far more balance than what I remember. I actually wouldn't be afraid to wear this today. I passed on the bottle in favor of some more modern scents that were available. Furyo really is still a great fragrance that for me is lost in time. I'm surely going Thumbs Up for it though.

Nice animalic, the lavender and civet almost causes a nasty urine odor, but the florals stop it from being a disaster. I don't get green notes, just floral and spice. This is a nice fragrance, well balanced.

A number of Reviews right on in regards to this gem. Initial flash to the brain. Salome with a blast of Clove and Cinnamon replacing the Cumin. Next Bergamot, Clove, Cinnamon accord Youth Dew. The Civet fills out a background picture and an incense suggested by Fumerie Turque.
Drydown seems quite "Vintage Noxema Ointment" (a good thing to me) nostalgic. Civet remains as a canvas throughout.
What else could 1 ask for? Not much. The Incense draws slowly back into the distance and 1 is left with. Wow!!
To my mind Unisex, however Masculine in structure and esthetic.
Careful though, over do it and you will border on an old man's urine stained shorts.
A fine example of Perfume artistry of the 80's.

*This is a review of the vintage original formula.

Furyo (vintage) opens with a highly aromatic lavender and dulled rose tandem with hints of underlying carnation and green oakmoss. Moving to the early heart the rose and lavender rapidly recede as moderately animalic deep musk emerges as co-star alongside powerful heady patchouli rising from the base. Supporting the musk and patchouli starring tandem are the carnation and oakmoss, both growing considerably from their earlier presence while adding in an additional powdery facet, slightly urinous animalic civet and lemon-like geranium. During the late dry-down the composition shifts gears as an almost creamy slightly sweet vanilla joins supporting amber and the patchouli remnants through the finish. Projection is outstanding (particularly in the first two hours) and longevity excellent at over 12 hours on skin.

Furyo (vintage) is truly great stuff. It represents all the best aspects of the great 80's with its gorgeous, powerful patchouli and oakmoss, and the musk used through most of the composition is the perfect partner for the patchouli and carnation, never coming off as overdone. There is no mistaking Furyo's powerhouse credentials, but despite the potency and the laundry list of ingredients, the outstanding perfumers Winnegrade and Wasser have done a bang-up job of keeping the whole thing together without any one ingredient overpowering others. Even the vanilla-led late dry-down works perfectly and provides a nice change of pace from the potent open and mid-section. After all that glowing verbiage, the shorter verdict is Furyo (vintage) smells *darn* good! The bottom line is the sadly discontinued Furyo is a tremendously successful effort by a pair of extremely talented noses, earning an "excellent" to "outstanding" 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 and an extremely strong recommendation to vintage perfume lovers.

Bergamot, Lavender, Artemesia, Coriander, Green Notes.
Jasmine, Geranium, Cinnamon, Rose, Carnation, Thyme, Honey.
Patchouli, Amber, Vetiver, Civet, Moss, Musk, Vanilla.


My initial review was comparing the vintage formula to the later release of this 1988 strangely compelling scent from Jacques Bogart. The two things I will reiterate from the 2011 post is that the vintage really does possess better overall character and that Furyo is a forerunner to Arabian Nights from the same house. Let's just say it smells like the blueprint for it and leave it at that.

I suppose one of the things I like about Furyo is that it genuinely was not trying to smell like anything else or even attempting to improve on an already existing idea. Fragrances in the 70's and 80's were much like music was in the 60's and 70's. Variety was encouraged and financially backed, so taking chances was way more common than what I see today. This attitude produced some real iconic creations. Naturally, there's going to be failures as well in an atmosphere of experimentation, but just look back at the results in scent and music to see if it was justified.

Furyo is a masculine aroma. It's dark and wears on the heavy side because it possesses substance. There's an air of mystery about what you're smelling and the accents from honey and civet augment Furyo with a sensuality that isn't in your face, but obvious to those who get close. It makes for an interesting choice to wear during the colder months and I wouldn't hesitate to reach for Furyo for a night of fun, romance or both.

Furyo has some sparkle in its opening. Once that subsides, there's not much development or actual need for any. Within minutes, it basically unfolds and matures before your eyes and remains as such for the length of the ride. Furyo is a dense and concerted effort from many. Woods, Animalics, Floral and Earth converge for 5 plus hours before finally relinquishing its grip to a subtle interpretation of moss and vanilla. Thumbs up from SS for Vintage Furyo by Jacques Bogart. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Straight to the point: a masterpiece. Furyo (vintage bottle here) is a hyper-modern, really peculiar and fascinating masculine chypre which can compare to, well, almost nothing else as far as I am concerned. In rough terms, the “family” as others already stated may be the one of the good old civet bombs, like Kouros or Ungaro II (and of Rabanne's Ténéré too, to another extent): nonetheless, here you can find a couple of unique features which make Furyo completely standout, not making it necessarily “superior” but definitely different from any other scent. There is indeed a filthy, “urinous” civet heart, which however here is wrapped – and I would say, almost concealed – into an irresistible, warm, nondescript cradle made of rose, cinnamon, amber, lavender, herbs, woods (I get sandalwood more than vetiver); a soft Oriental blend which floats between sweet, bright, soapy, balsamic, dirty, spicy and dusty-resinous - almost with a beeswax note too. There is also a kind of dark fruity-candied feel, subtle but somehow “narcotic” and slightly decadent, really charming and much modern too (apparently Wasser is the nose behind this, and in fact, I get a slight sort of common ground with certain aspects of Dalì pour Homme, which he made as well the year before). The result, which as I said is quite nondescript, is an exceedingly alluring, mellow, intense and warm fragrance, with an outstanding quality to any extent: materials, balance, depth, composition. Quite hard to define, honestly, but basically: a sweet-spicy dark masculine chypre. But that really wouldn't do justice to the beauty of Furyo. An irresistible harmony of nuances ranging from the decadent carnality of rose and carnation to the elusive warmth of spices and amber, from the soapy-aromatic cleanliness of lavender and herbs, to the filthy dirt of civet and oak moss. And then balmy notes, woods, sandalwood, something resinous-sweet (Rabanne's Ténéré, again) ... thick and complex, incredibly rich, but perfectly harmonic, unique, easy to love. And not a powerhouse, meaning that despite it's surely really powerful, I wouldn't really place this close to the conventional, “hairy-chested”, slightly outdated and often a bit stern (not to say tacky) boldness of most powerhouses. Furyo is so much more creative, more refined, more complex, more modern than any of them. Really outstanding, smelling incredibly “new”, and so pleasant to wear. Plus, the sillage is nuclear and the persistence is everlasting. One of those scents which may easily fit the niche market (I thought of Amouage for instance, if only they would be able to make something half beautiful as this).

9/10

Fantastic Retro Masculine Fougere with excellent longevity. A must for any perfume lover.

Double Thumbs up!

This is for the vintage version...

Writing reviews isn't my strong point; dissecting this wonderful gem has already been done by better BN in this reviews section, especially ericrico.

To me, Furyo is a hardly spoken about gem of yester yrs - 11 out of 10 scent if math will allow me to rate so.

Exceptional longevity; with powerful silage for the first 2 hours, overall about 6 od hrs with good silage. Two thumbs up.

This review is for Vintage formulation:

Almost a surreal opening of rich spices (a full cinnamon stick is in this bottle!) and florals with deep, smoky patchouli and very nice civet - that comes together with a warm, glowing base of amber and vetiver in glorious richness! This is a time bomb from 1988! One is engulfed in the Nag Champa incense accord that these amazing notes form. Artemisia in the top along with coriander create a wonderful balance of herbal bitterness and earthiness right before an "incense cone" starts to form and glow on your skin. Rose in the heart along with jasmine and geranium create a nice bouquet that shows itself in plumes...this is rather amazing. The incredible power, as mesmerizing as it is (and well pointed-out by foetidus)...this is a truly radiant skin scent. It projects well on my skin for the first hour or so and after that, it wears close but breathes out a few inches from the skin...creating a true aura effect. A wonderful vibe that your skin is glowing with warm embers of incense, amber and spices.

The ingredients are of exceptional quality. Nag Champa incense is a composition itself that traditionally contains Plumeria flower (in a semi-resin form) and sandalwood. Those accords show here, but are mysteriously not listed as notes...which makes this even more fascinating. I am in full agreement with jenson - this is niche-quality fragrance in Vintage formulation. I cannot compare this scent to any other as it breaks conventional wisdom and turns its back on anything traditional in fragrance. I am in pure admiration. I have only done one full wearing and a couple sample wearings. It is a scent that one must be comfortable and confident to wear - not for the faint of heart. However, since it does not project too loudly, a scent that you could wear (in light application) to a lot of occasions.

Stunning. I will refrain from giving it a fractional rating but know that one is very lucky to be able to have tried this...for it is pure olfactory art, with no name on the canvas. I am so curious whose brilliant touch & nose was behind this under the Jacques Bogart label.

Cheers.

Wow - the initial hit of lavender, bergamot, artemisia and cinnamon is amazing, strong and with a touch of non-sweet fruitiness that is unique. Then the rose comes out, followed by a beautiful patchouli with vetiver clearly discernible on my skin. Added civet in the drydown give it a darker note. Shifty Bat's succinct summary "simultaneously dirty and clean, fresh and dank, bitter and sweet" describes this scent very well. The last hours bring out some oakmoss, establishing this fragrance as a fougere, albeit a very complex and unorthodox one, a floral-musk-vetiver fougere so to speak. The last hours are pure beautiful fougere with supercharged oakmoss; a bit like Revillon's French Line on steroids. Added aldehydes gives it a bit of a Chanel feel at times. The components are blended masterfully. Good silage, great projection, and a phenomenal longevity of over twelve hours. This is one of the greatest fragrances I have experienced for a long time, a Vintage Tabarome of the 1980s so to speak.

It's been a long time since I smelled a fragrance that opens so rich, varied and full. I immediately get the patchouli, rose, cinnamon, honey, jasmine, lavender, and a bit of wormwood: All these notes are discernibly clear and smooth. It's wonderful… it's nostalgic… and it's a bit sad to think that this is what one could once expect from a fragrance. But they don't make them like this anymore, and more's the shame.

Vintage Furyo doesn't project strongly off my skin. It is mild and very smooth. I don't get the bergamot of the opening – perhaps it was lost in the aging. Usually for me, a civet note will come through strongly, but I don't smell it anywhere in the several layers of this complex scent. The opening sans bergamot lasts for a long time before it transfers into a more floral texture without the opening's wormwood, aldehydes, and honey. It performs as a firm skin scent through the middle texture and through the long-lasting basenotes. In the basenotes, the patchouli still rules in conjunction with a smooth musk and with a little help from some moss and amber. I get neither vetiver nor vanilla. The same generous Basenoter who provided me with a small decant of vintage Furyo, also provided me with a small decant of the reformulated Furyo. Unfortunately I spilled the vial of the reformulation after only one cursory testing of it. It seemed stronger than, but similar to the vintage version - but without the depth or smoothness – but the reformulation was enjoyable.

I love the vintage Furyo. It's rich and delicious.

And the 80's high-fives me again! Furyo is a deliciously stinky patchouli bomb with an herbaceous twist and the heart of an animal. With the sweet cinnamon and green wormwoody team-up from Gambler and the warm and loud honey and patchouli of Giorgio for Men, Furyo was already a shoe-in for a good rating. But the sheer level of unapologetic animusk is really something else. This smells simultaneously dirty and clean, fresh and dank, bitter and sweet. This is love.

Edit: I have two discrete versions of Furyo and, to be perfectly honest, I am not certain which is the original. What I can say definitively is this:

One version is a little airy and more herbal than the other, and features less animal musk. It features an almost candied sweetness in the beginning, and overall smells like an overdeveloped interpretation of Jacomo's beautiful Eau Cendree.

The other, which was my first sampling, smells more crowded, and much more like Nag Champa incense. The bergmot from the former seems absent, and a brooding layer of civet is constantly present. This take on Furyo brings about images of 'head shops.'

Both versions are more enjoyable than 95% of all other fragrances I own.