Fumerie Turque 
Serge Lutens (2003)

Average Rating:  96 User Reviews

Your ratings


Overall

Longevity

Sillage
Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens

Fragrance Overview Where to Buy Reviews Community Ownership

About Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens

People & Companies

Serge Lutens
Fragrance House

Fumerie Turque is a shared scent launched in 2003 by Serge Lutens

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Where to buy Fumerie Turque

Some of the links we use are affiliate links, meaning if you click the links and make a purchase, we may receive a commission, which helps us keep the site running

Reviews of Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens

There are 96 reviews of Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens.


Fumerie Tuque by Serge Lutens (2003) is another of the big tastemaker perfumes from Lutens when they were "at the top of the niche game" as the self-absorbed influencers would say over on Instagram. I get that a lot of these were some of the first niche perfumes anyone in the online fragrance community space had smelled; as like Creed, Lutens fragrances seemed to be in abundant supply with discounters for much of the first decade into the 21st century, meaning that if you smelled an unusual tobacco scent like this before you had a chance to smell something more-conventional like Aramis Havana (1994), your mind might be well and fully blown. These days though, the men's perfume segment is full of rich and opulent tobacco experiences from bigger players in "the game" like Parfums de Marly, on down to designers like Burberry with their Burberry London for Men (2005) which debuted only a few years after this. Trickle down effect? Maybe, but it's unimportant. What is important to know about Fumerie Turque is it is considered a house-defining scent from the brand, like Feminite du Bois (1992), Ambre Sultan (1993), Iris Silver Mist (1994), Muscs Koublaï Khän (1998), and Chergui (2001).

Looking back on this Christopher Sheldrake creation before he was really shackled as the supervisor of Olivier Polge at Chanel, we really get something that's more akin to a semi-oriental fougère like Creed Bois du Portugal (1987) with rose acting in place of geranium, fused with bits of tobacco and honey, with a toe just barely dipped into something animalic to get that old-world Turkish horseback theme. Zeybek by Pekji (2018) would really revisit and take this theme to new levels later on, since the indie perfumer is actually from Istanbul, Turkey and is intimately familiar with the cultural history, but you can sort of see the inkling of that here in abstract occidental observational form. After the semi-oriental fougère tones and honeyed tobacco calm down, a bit of horse stable hay comes about, although not as barnyard as say Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur, so I wouldn't call this animalic all that much. Patchouli and leather materials are really the anchors under the tobacco and hay, with vanilla rounding out things. Fumerie Turque is good, I'll give it that. Performance is solid too, but this is not a screamer past the first two hours, as it sits a bit close. Unerringly a cold weather scent like most of the big hits from the house, Fumerie Turque also feels mostly masculine to my nose.

This scent was once relegated to the bell jars for a few years, seemingly after it stopped selling as well compared to the fresher, more floral things that followed up their dark and heavy late 90's through mid-00's period most superfans like to extol about until they're blue in the face. I guess after some darker flavors returned to the brand like La Couche du Diable (2019) and Fils de Joie (2020), it seemed only right to return Fumerie Turque to normal rotation in one of the new super-thin and tall bottles used for new releases of a heavier nature like L'Innommable (2018). I can't say a scent like Fumerie Turque doesn't fit the bottle motif, but super-fans won't be happy with anything but original bottles made in the old script-clad 50mls with the tan labels on them, where you had to remove the cap and add a sprayer if you preferred. For me personally, I don't really see anything that is a prerequisite to knowing what you're talking about in the world of online armchair perfume critics, at least not knowing what's come out since this has, but I think it is still a solid niche tobacco scent for those with the money to spend on Lutens, which is quite a bit more than it was in 2003. Ever since the brand pulled out of the US, a bulk of the online throngs for the brand now have one extra hurdle to jump through if they still want this in their lives. Thumbs up


Honey drenched tobacco ablaze. Autumnal landscapes and rustic backdrops. A kaleidoscope of falling leaves, obscured by the swirl of incandescent smoke.


The opening blast is a delight: It is the aroma of a sweet pipe tobacco that is flavoured, mainly with a dark rose and some fruits, like redcurrant, junipier and whiffs of blackcurrant, although most of the time is is a rather mixed fruitiness on me.

In the drydown I get touches of a smooth, dark and sightly dusty undertone of leather-like styrax note but not very sude-like to me. The sweetness is supported by a tonka/vanilla impression that lingers until the end. Soft hints of herbal teas - chamomille with whiffs of rooibos, are also present at this time.

The base continues the leather-vanilla theme, with a dark but rather smooth patchouli filtering into the mix gradually; this patchouli is neither harsh nor sharp.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This first part of this autumnal creation is a creative take on the tobacco-leather theme, but the later stages are somewhat blander at times. Nonetheless, overall a good composition. 3.5/5



Like Amouage Interlude Man, to me it evokes memories of smoking a fruit-flavoured narghile in a chicha bar in Beirut or Istanbul. Less cloying, less sweet and more balanced than Interlude Man in my view. I like it very much.


Revisiting this post-Écrin de Fumée (a decidedly more "mainstream" woodyamber tonkabacco) is interesting.

Fumerie Turque is dark and dense. While this was released quite a while ago (it's two decades old!), today it feels almost artisanal/indie in its sensibilities (Rogue Perfumery's Derviche is not worlds apart from this), which shows where this aesthetic has moved with the rapid expansion of masstiche brands. It's certainly hard to imagine Serge Lutens releasing this kind of thing now.

The honeyed tones here feel "vintage-y" (as opposed to the more modern honey accords that have become popular), with the urinous facets quite apparent. This is applied to a dense, smoky tobacco accord with fruity and floral and hay-like accents, though those elements stay firmly in the background.

I find it a bit too single-minded and prefer the more dynamic experience offered by Lutens' own Chergui, to say nothing of other notables (Acqua di Cuba by Santa Maria Novella is my personal gold standard for a honeyed tobacco). But it's a nice reminder of when niche really meant *niche.*


One of the most mature, "older" scents I've tried in a while.

Starts with a stuffy, musty, mature, chocolate tobacco and doesn't really change much.

Performance is very good with noticeable projection. I get 9-10 hours of longevity on clothes.

Show more reviews of Fumerie Turque...

Add your review of Fumerie Turque

You need to be logged in to add a review.

Log in here, or register

Required.

in the Community

From the forums

Recently Viewed on this device

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top
pp