Fougère Emeraude
Les Indémodables (2016)

I have extremely narrow parameters for the type of tuberose I am willing to wear, and I usually find fougères too masculine and bitter-smelling for me to pull off. But I’m pleasantly surprised! Fougère Émeraude manages to find my sweet spot on both the note (tuberose) and the style (fougère) and does so with such panache that I’m genuinely excited to wear it. It might even be – gasp – my favorite of the entire Les Indémodables sample set.

Let’s start with its treatment of tuberose. Fougère Émeraude captures all the toothpasty, camphoraceous ‘box hedge’ greenness I love in Carnal Flower and sidesteps entirely the lurid butter-bubblegum loudness that I abhor in Fracas. The tuberose smells dewy, crisp, and freshly-watered, not wilted or overblown. What I appreciate in particular is that, before the tuberose can start to droop and start smelling of its naturally fleshy, semi-decaying self, the note is quickly flanked by a softly powdery ‘fern’ accord made up of lavender, mimosa, tonka, and amber, so what you end up smelling is tuberose that’s been modulated and softened from all angles – a creamy, powdery floral accord with tuberose in the mix, rather than a full-on, straight-ahead tuberose.

The fougère element of the scent also plays squarely in the modern fougère sandbox, meaning that it leans on creamy tonka, powdery lavender, and soft floral notes rather than on the rather brusque aromatic sting of leaves, twigs, and bitter-minty oakmoss for its structure, thus making it perfectly easy for a women (certainly this woman) to wear.

The green, floral creaminess of Fougère Émeraude, particularly in its drydown, reminds me a little of the drydown of Chypre Palatin (Parfums MDCI), albeit without that scent’s lush, dense-as-a-brick castoreum-oakmoss-labdanum accord that makes it both sweetly creamy and subtly animalic. But where Chypre Palatin is a special occasion scent, Fougère Émeraude’s lightness of texture and (comparative) freshness makes for an altogether more casual wear, and thus is perfectly suited for an everyday ‘reach’.

I imply a distinguished woman with good ethics, composition and grace. Visually, a ballet dancer who has retired and is now invited to teach. This is an unusual fougere. There is a rich and flamboyant quality in it that i miss dearly in modern perfumes. To my nose it is a perfect balanced blend between florals and green notes with a chypre base. A classical, sophisticated, lovely soapy and very womanly scent.

It has a keen, green tuberose, almost botanic opening. After a while you can feel very opulent by mimosa. The dry down on my skin has a hint of vetiver. Such an strangely beautiful perfume and appropriate for all seasons. It is a very balanced green scent and not only green-herbal, from which young women stay away from nowadays. Positively perfect.

Fougere Emeraude

At the outset, the tuberose is loudly singing soprano. The clary sage, which was strong on paper, is barely enough to undergird all the tuberose. It's a fatty tuberose such as the one in Fracas, not a cold tuberose like Champs Lunaire by Rogue. The clary Sage and other green notes provide a smoky, earthy, mossy, leathery accompaniment beneath the white floral solo. The leather Chypre base reminds me of Eau de Sud by Annick Goutal. Utterly fantastic. If I didn't very nearly despise tuberose in perfumery, this might be a purchase for me. Substitute the tuberose for frangipani and I'd be hooked.

The total effect of the base is cousin to Dryad by Papillon. Remove the sap from Dryad, add an acrid leather note, and you're in the neighborhood.

A soft feminine fougere with Tuberose. Very light. Well constructed with nice materials. Nothing to complain about but also nothing mind-blowing.

This may be listed as unisex but to me this is a wonderful subtle feminine fragrance with a clear rose vibe with sage and tonka.
Very nice indeed. It starts with a bit more of a sharp zing which suggests a guy could pull it off but it quickly settles and finds its feminine side.
But not for me. Its not even metrosexual.

For ladies:
Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10