Fleurs d'Oranger 
Serge Lutens (1995)

This still deserves its position as a reference orange blossom perfume.

Fleurs d'Oranger is conceptually simple, but artfully balanced, with a unique hot/cold effect. The orange blossom shimmers like reflected sunlight, with the cumin lending a warm, slightly sweaty quality. The tuberose balances it out with some sunscreen coolness. The jasmine provides the backbone, bringing some indolic depth.

It's creamy, slightly rubbery, with just enough of a dirty edge to give it virility and vivaciousness. Fleurs d'Oranger wears subtly enough that it becomes a very attractive, fascinating, slightly abstract aura.

Starting off as a conflagration of white florals, Fleurs d'Oranger has a larger than life grove of orange blossoms accompanied by heady jasmine that at first would lead one to think "oh, this is extra" but just lean into it. Revel in its creamy, vertiginous voluptuousness. It's a bit intoxicating, and after some time, the spiciness and woodiness converge with these florals.

The turn of events in Fleurs d'Oranger may startle many but it is what made fall for it, hook, line, and sinker. The woods and spice grow a bit more fierce: everyone discusses the cumin here, but it isn't front and center, but it does add a shade of funk that I love. It adds interest here rather than completely arresting the wearer, and to my nose, it isn't nearly as dirty or sweaty as others might suggest. Then again, I love fragrances like Mazzolari Lui, L'Air de Rien, and Diptyque L'Autre.

The dry down is a rosy, spicy, musky woods with whispers of the white florals enduring; if sprayed on clothes, they remain far longer, naturally. I'm sorry, what can I say? I am a Sheldrake fanboy. This is brilliant.

Opulent rich thick orange blossoms, narcotic tuberose, warm cumin.
Isn't it hot in here…?