Bruno Fazzolari says:
Five is the first perfume I developed in parallel with a group of paintings. The paintings deploy vivid, slightly-off primary colors, painted wet-into-wet on a cold-white ground tinted with cobalt blue. They were shown in a gallery lit by bright fluorescent lights. A citrus scent, but one with an ozonic and mineral aura to reflect the whole installation.
Five fragrance notes
- lemon, sweet orange, rosemary, petitgrain, sweet woods, minerals, high altitudes
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Latest Reviews of Five
This is after a second wearing; during the first time I wore it my partner immediately said, "it smells like a high school locker room in here." Meaning that this stuff projects and announces itself, as few citrus-forward fragrances do. Today I am reminded of a cologne I had as a child–something I think my mom brought me back from France. Heavy on the neroli, citrus, and herbs, it does wear as you would expect a traditional masculine cologne, but with a marine and ozonic quality that others have mentioned. Much fuller-bodied, and much longer-lasting, and a little airier. Bright yellow sun and bright blue sky–both in balance, just not to my taste. I'm impressed at its ability to conjure this image, but don't find it to be particularly novel, just well-executed in its style.
As it wears down, I'm reminded of Irish Spring soap, which I can't say is my favorite smell. In fact, I find the house base to be a bit off-putting in almost every Fazzolari I've tried. It's a lightly powdery sweetness that seems to dominate after a time–but not sugary sweetness, more saccharine, like the difference between stevia and real cane sugar. Not unnatural, but it leaves a strange aftertaste. Not for me, but not as bland or thoughtless as many other citrus fresh scents on the market. (5/10)
Then increasingly floral with even more spice and there is the problem.
Slightly effeminate but gets up my nose.
This is probably a perfect one for the dandy amongst us and that's OK. Bruno caters to all our needs and all of us deserve something which suits us and our tastes. Just not for me this one. Phew. I don't know who thinks this is an office scent unless you are talking about the OOOO Darling film industry. Almost wash off territory.
It's kind of like a brighter, more candied, classier version of Spicebomb. The mix of cinnamon, clove, and cedar brings to mind CDG's Red collection, though Five is less heavy and wood-focused, being sweeter and more candied from the bubblegum, and also more floral.
I tend to dislike cinnamon/clove perfumes because they often remind me of cheap Christmas potpouri, and Five does kind of fall into that trap, though less so than most because of the candy and flowers. But because of that, though not terrible by any means, Five isn't for me.
The citrus is definitely a blended citrus, without the dominance of any one fruit, a harmony of orange and lemon. I'm often a fan of the way that petitgrain mixes with citrus and Five is no exception, as the earthy, wheaty quality of petitgrain contrasts the very fresh citrus blend poignantly, with rosemary lingering in the background to give an herbal feel that isn't overwhelmingly herbal.
Five performs pretty well, as well, giving hours of decent projection and hours more as a skin scent, so certainly above the norm for a warm weather EDP. Still, its full bottle pricing of $110 for 30ml is a bit steep, so this one I' need to sleep on and try some more before stomaching the pricing.
8 out of 10
The opening of this and some others from Fazzolari (Monserrat, Room 237, Seyrig) contains some sort of aromachemical that jumps off the skin in an aldehydic fashion but with more warmth, a warmth that I could swear is actually exothermic. It's fascinating to sniff. I've never experienced a true analog of this sensation from another house.
As previously mentioned, it's a very creative take on a classic structure. Five is full of crystal clear fresh green/herbal notes that are simultaneously futuristic and realistic. I agree with what Colin details about the "ozonic/watery" feel. There is something in here like that, but it's no where near the "ozonic" that we've grown to know.
Everyone else has nailed most of the specifics, so I won't go any further except to say I found the drydown disappointing. About 90 minutes in to this, on my skin it turns into something a bit mundane, similar to (gasp) the drydown of Green Irish Tweed. There's nothing wrong with that per se, but a familiar end to such a brilliant opening is a bummer. It almost landed this in neutral territory for me.
I might buy another sample, but I won't be buying a full bottle.