Fille en Aiguilles 
Serge Lutens (2009)

A fragrance I'd be happy to make my signature, if I had the money that this now fetches. I want to do a side by side with Memo - Shams in Oud, but in my mind both are incredibly similar during their drydown, with the Lutens being the more bold of the two and Shams being the more wearable as Fille is certainly abrasive. Bone dry and peppery evergreen woods, drenched in sticky and bitter resin. This isn't just the pine smell of Gris Clair, it's that plus so much more. Something akin to herbal cough mixture in the vein of a bitter Italian amari or Slovakian Demanovka Bitter. If artemsia and Caron's Yatagan are your thing then seek this out.

This ranks as perhaps my favorite Serge Lutens: it may not be the most innovative, spellbinding, or even challenging from Christopher Sheldrake. It's simply the most beautiful to my humble nose (and heart).

Fille en Aiguilles (translated literally from French as "girl in needles") is a creation that evokes all the effulgence of conifers, be they pine, fir balsam, spruce, or hemlock. Images enter my head of the reflective crystal beads released from the trunk and the cones; looking up in awe at how far the trees reach into the heavens. I am impressed with Sheldrake's ability to capture as closely to reality the headspace of the conifers, not merely presenting the conifer as a monolithic and two-dimensional pine, but trees with many nuanced facets to their scent profile.

While isobornyl acetate, the camphorous, soapy, classic "pine" aromachem is present here, it is but a small modifier, so we do not have this unfortunate awkward point in the development that sends our mind to functional fragrance "Pine Sol" territory at all. We have a lot of layers, including the use of balsam fir absolute, with its sweeter, jammy qualities that impart a true yuletide sensation, the classic Christmas tree scent, while extending the dried fruit note. This particular note reminds me of a specific preserve produced by Wilkinson & Sons, Tiptree Christmas Preserve, made with red currants, Victoria and Damson plums, Sultana raisins, cloves, cinnamon and various spices.

Further into the dry down, we move from the needles, sap, spices, and fruits, to the spell of the pine wood itself, richly saturated in its own gum and exudate, and a slowly revealing incense note, reminiscent of the Paine's incense sticks from Maine that would come complete with a tiny log cabin incense holder.

Fille en Aiguilles would no doubt resonate with someone like me, who is as deeply connected with trees, forests, and the ineffable sensation of awe that comes from their surroundings. Hardcore city folk who have difficulty connecting with the outdoors may need some time warming up to its realism and subtlety as a fragrance. Regardless, it would behoove any hardcore frag enthusiast, city mouse or country mouse, to at least sample this stunning creation.

This might be my all time favorite scent. It smells super dry and very natural. I am from Seattle and it really brings me into the pine tree trails I miss so much. It gives me a dose of those forest visits from my past, something well needed here in the concrete mazes of Brooklyn.

It smells like the end of a hot summer and an afternoon walk into the forest. I have gone off-trail to sit on the warm earth covered with dried pine needles, looking up I see the tree tops and the sky above. The dried pine needles on the ground are eminating their captured heat and aroma into the air around me.

Sizzling pine needles, pine sap, something sweet - maybe vanilla, and the edge of frankinsense cutting through - elevating my senses to the sky, making it a bit more intense.

This scent is warm and comforting. It is instantly recognizable as something unique and probably expensive. Countless compliments and happy people around me wanting to get closer lol. The sillage is powerful but not pointed and it lasts, seeping into your skin and clothes. Its dry down brings out those pine needles like a dried rusty colored pine tree branch baking in the sun. lovely lovely lovely. So special and daring. Lasts for hours.

Sweet pine sap with that typical Lutens syrupy, dense structure.

Nice, but as usual with Serge Lutens creations, I find it a bit thick and one dimensional. A more translucent take on this theme would thrill me.

From January, 2015

A classic winter fragrance with a thick and rich pine tree and sap aroma. This one's not paired up with citrus notes so it doesn't have that brighter aspect to it. Instead the dried fruits in the heart give it a sweet, syrupy consistency. The color of the juice (dark red) seems an accurate representation of what's inside. I don't find the incense very strong (as it is in Wazamba, for example). While it's there for sure, it doesn't dominate at any point and instead lends a smokey/ashy accent. Projection is close to the skin, longevity is very good. I like Fille en Aiguilles but I only wear it a couple times a year, as it's kind of a one-trick pony to me. If you like this, definitely check out "Winter," by DASEIN, which presents a similar style in a brighter white and yellow hue.

Thumbs up for sure, but sample first, as this might not be for everyone.

This is one of my top 3 all-time fragrances. I love experimenting with the Serge Lutens line. I find them unique, intriguing, and of very good quality. Of all the SL fragrances I've tried, this is hands down the very best (my second favorite is Chergui).
A very rich, dark, resinous pine dominant scent with a lingering sticky, stewed fruit note. I'm not a huge fan of pine in most fragrances but SL hits a home run with this one.
Perfectly blended, incredible longevity, and just the right sillage. Thumbs up all around. Very happy to own this one.