Fêtes de Noël
Darren Alan (2022)

Fêtes de Noël by Darren Alan Perfumes (2022) is a particularly faithful chypre using totally not IFRA-compliant materials to make a properly re-created Mousse de Saxe accord (within reason because vintage formulas for it contain materials that no longer exist), and is patterned after holiday-themed fragrances of old like Caron Nuit de Noël (1922), although this is -not- a clone of that scent despite the name similarities. Fans of other rounded, powdery/mossy vintage chypres from the era by brands like the aforementioned Caron - but also brands like Avon or Prince Matchabelli - will find particular favor here. The accords are closely patterned after what was then considered feminine-market perfumery, but like many vintage chypres of this type, could easily be unisex if not masculine in the 21st century. In particular, I find a strong connection to really old Avons like Avon Cotillion (1933).

The opening of Fêtes de Noël is bergamot, sweet orange, and bayberry, which is the most this scent will ever smell like Nuit de Noël. Carnation, jasmine, rose, and fleshy turberose are blended with musky ylang-ylang, making this a great deal more indolic than many squeaky Avons and also even slightly more sexy than the aforementioned Caron (the choice of wives while Guerlain was classically the choice of mistresses), although I would veer just shy of calling Fêtes de Noël truly animalic. Soapy and waxy orris butter mixed with real sandalwood oil keeps the muskier materials in the base from getting too horny, meaning the civet, patchouli, and labdanum behave under the backdrop of the Mousse de Saxe, vanilla, and other resins. Fêtes de Noël does pulls into a slightly oriental direction near the end, but I wouldn't call it one. Twenty percent compounds is pushing it for an eau de parfum, so expect closer to a pure parfum in performance too, rich and buttery warm. Longevity is outstanding.

Bathory by Darren Alan Perfumes (2017) can be a bit much unless you particularly love animal musks; but If for some reason even Chypre No. 1 by Darren Alan Perfumes (1996) is too much for you in that department too, then Fêtes de Noël might be just the ticket, as it is a much more "prim and proper" chypre like everyone's grandmother used to wear at Christmas, hence the name in the first place. For me personally, I love this and recommend anyone who dwells on early 20th century classic perfumery or just in general classic chypre structures to seek it out. The price for some of nearly $200 for 50ml may be a bit steep, but outside of Avon, try finding a good vintage specimen of a chypre like this with materials like these at this price for 50ml, and you're rolling the dice on whether or not it is even intact or refilled with something else. Just another all-around marvelous period-correct perfume in all regards, worth a sniff from vintage enthusiasts. Thumbs up