FEB.14,1912
Rundholz Parfums (2016)

Looking at the notes gave me a premonition that this would likely be love for me, and after trying I must take my hat off to Rundholz and admit that this scent is actually very slightly enjoyable to me.

There's very strong iris surrounded by anise and fennel. It is a bit linear but there are some surprises along the way. Occasionally I smell a creamy-waxy like lipstick, with a soapy bubble bath accord. So there are some things that just jump out.

In fact, the iris here just has every facet that you can think of, it's almost a 3D iris if that makes sense. It reminds me of serious Face. But oh, no matter the scowl, that face is so beautiful that I want to squeeze its little cheeks and kiss it just for existing.

Notes 15/2/23
Dior Homme x Eau d'Hermes. Today, the opening was very strong on cumin (the 'dark burnt note' mentioned below), a hint of caraway, and a lot of celery; plus a Dior Homme-style iris. The drydown was Infusion d'Iris, with occasional wafts of cumin. I could get the same effect by making a curry while wearing Dior Homme.

A later wearing 26/3/21 :
The opening is very green, with a prominent vegetal aspect of fennel as well as more aromatic, anisic notes of licorice/aniseed. Then a strong rooty, carroty iris/orris, slightly milky, which persists throughout.
In the heart, there are delicate florals that remind me of a (very faint, very tasteful) 1970s 'ethnic clothes and orientalia shop' such as Neal Street East in central London - the smell of soaps imported from India, scented with rose or jasmine. A slight reminder of floral joss sticks. Absolutely no patchouli or this would be more headshop. And here comes the heliotrope, with a slight plastic doll-head tinge.
Drydown is still iris and heliotrope, and woods (wooden inlaid boxes imported and sold by such shops) : cedar, yes, but also sandalwood.
This was a subtle trip down memory lane into a world of paisley-printed cotton bedspreads and silk scarves, small brass joss-stick holders, soaps wrapped in crepe paper.

Having said all that, FEB.14,1912.is predominantly an iris scent, in the Hiris/Irisss/Iridium mould.

Earliest notes
Sampling on the basis of a review that described it as being related to the weirdness that is Iris Silver Mist. Since I am unlikely ever to try ISM, this will have to do.

I was expecting incense+heliotrope, for some reason. Instead, I get a very rooty, earthy iris immediately followed by a dark, burnt note, which reminds me of the black licorice vetiver in Bel Ami Vetiver, or Etro Vetiver, so is more probably what the notes say are licorice and star anise. Very iris, and a celery-ish or celery seed aspect (far more so than people accuse Yatagan of having).

I get none of the supposed citrus (orange, bergamot), or maybe a wee bit to spruce up the bluntness of the rooty iris. Later, at drydown, a hint of rose drifting in and out. But more of this nutty-salty-celery-burnt note that I associate with some vetivers.

If you like rooty, green fennel this is for you- powdery dry down. Not pleasant for me but our noses are vastly different…

I love bergamot and anise notes and the licorice present in the top note are well balanced. Now a confession, I initially wasn't enthralled with the wrist/elbow test,and can usually get a good sense of the scent this way. Giving it a third try I fumbled and dumped at least half an ounce of it on my clothes (linen/cotton). Happily working at home but no time to spare to change, so just blotted it as best I could and went on. Later, I realized, I REALLY liked the dry-down. So maybe the day or the quantity, I wound up enjoying the floral and final scents.