Explosions d’Emotions : Rappelle-Toi
L'Artisan Parfumeur (2014)

With Rappelle-Toi, Bertrand Duchafour uses a similar approach as with L'Artisan Seville a L'Aube (orange blossom) and Penhaligon's Ostara (Narcissus), with Rappelle-Toi using gardenia as a centerpiece, framed by honey and beeswax. The gardenia, already plush and succulent, is singed with an animalic pepper and rendered even more ripe and sweaty with the products of apiculture, a waxy impasto that thickens the overall feel.

The end result is so sultry, with the milky blooms and velvety petals, oily and mouth-watering, a little bit "Ban de Soleil for the Saint Tropez tan" meets musky temple incense. It is one of the few fragrances that gives a tropical air without it being excessively coconut or two-dimensional jasmine. It grows more sheer and supple over time, never growing oppressive, with this seamless transition from gardenia to creamy sandalwood. This would make a fabulous wear for hot summer nights.

Ah...Yummy. What a wonderful orchestrate for Gardenia. At first it may seem odd with it's peppered Gin, however the creamy Gardenia is stunning. A honeyed Sandalwood base has the effect of having the Gardenia push into an Orchid-like halo. Gardenia has a Citrus Vegetal note to cut through any cloy. The scent throws off an oily Coconut Butter.
Scrumptious semi gourmand delight.

A lovely opening with gin and Sichuan pepper. The gin is not very boozy and quite light and without a lot of juniper - this not a typical London Dry gin, but with its inherent sweetness and berry aroma it reminds me more of the characteristics of a Chase Sloe Gin. The pepper is not that strong, and mixes very well with the gin note.

The drydown adds a floral impression - gardenia with whiffs of a green jasmine are added to the top notes.

The base added a sweet - not very sweet though - honeyed cedar impression, which is tailed by white musks towards the end.

I got moderate sillage, good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumn scent's most impressive part is the initial phase, where with a couple of notes a fairly unique effect is achieved - sometimes a few simple brushstrokes can be as creative as a whole mixture of a whole palette of colours. The rest is a bit more generic, but it is crafted well. At the border between mid-level and a positive score, one gives it the benefit of the doubt. 3/5.

I smelled Rappelle-toi on paper, in a shop full of l'Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, and it didn't strike me as the others. I remember I said:'oh, it's quite good, for a floral', but I'm not a huge floral fan and I got overwhelmed by all the other original fragrances from the house. I should smell it again with a little bit more attention, but I know it deserves a positive rating.

I consider myself an adventurous sniffer. There's practically nothing that I'd pass up on sniffing, should you place a bottle, sample, or tester strip in front of me. When I hear "tropical floral" however, I involuntarily make an eww face and I've the urge to pass. My opinions on most tropical florals are usually one of three things:

1) Hackneyed, boring
2) Pretty gross
3) Both

Despite the fact that I used to slurp down Hawaiian Punch by the gallon as a kid, I don't like sugary drinks and I definitely don't want to smell like one. Adding gardenia or jasmine or tuberose or mimosa to fruit punch makes it even less appealing, despite those flowers' abilities to produce beautiful soliflores.

Rappelle-Toi, for whatever reason, simply works. I think this smells great. To me it reads as a simple concoction of jasmine and gardenia notes with a backbone of white musk and a touch of incense, with very brief aromatic citrus top notes. It's modestly sweet, although it doesn't read as the listed honey note, just more of a "sweet floral" accord. It possesses an charming sense of tropical exoticism that I enjoy.

Not too heavy, not at all cloying, and somehow rather distinctive smelling, despite the rather common structure.

Off the top of my head (and I'm probably forgetting a couple) I can only think only one other "tropical floral" that I enjoy - Dusita's Mélodie de L'Amour. The Dusita is much more full-bodied and decidedly more exotic/classy, but they scratch a similar, very specific itch for me, and I can't help but enjoy them. Nicely done.

This is my favorite of the entire Explosions d'Emotion series. I do love gardenia, and this is a wonderful take on a flower that has to be imagined entirely by the perfumer. The sichuan pepper makes an unusual partner, and it works. There is a honey note but it's very sheer, never cloying. Incense and musk reveal themselves in the drydown. I didn't pick up on the gin note, which is good, because I don't want to smell like someone splashed their drink on me. Longevity is at least 8 hours, sillage is moderate. This is a cheerful, yet quiet gardenia with a few fun quirks. Really lovely.

A seriously, delicious woody concoction of gardenia, Sichuan pepper, honey, sandalwood, and incense. Hot buttered rum accord. Oozing, dripping ecstasy. Musk only reveals its presence after the dry down.

I can hear leaves rustling in a cool, autumn breeze, when I wear this. An enchanting evening elixir.