Eucris
Geo F Trumper (1912)

I read some of the other reviews of this fragrance, but the more I read, the more confused I became. Maybe I use words in a way that is different to everyone else, but I found that I could not agree with many descriptions given. Words like "gothic", "inky" or "dour" were applied to Eucris, by others, and I cannot see why. It seems to me that Eucris is a simple fruity floral, with a bit of spice and moss thrown in to take the curse off.

Eucris starts off in a somewhat hysterical fashion; green, sticky berries, with a dash of Cumin for no very good reason. It starts off quite strong, and the strident opening soon gets softened with a smooth sandalwood/musk effect. Then the whole thing collapses. It loses strength, and interest, and turns into another thin, fruity floral.

Dry down is mainly moss (which is nice) and sweet musk (which isn't).

"Masculine" was another descriptor used. I don't think it is necessary to describe fragrances by suitability to a particular gender, but I bet that if this was given as a blind smell, the majority smelling it would asign a feminine lable.

Accidentally spilled the whole sample bottle in my hand so probably applied more than I normally would but I really enjoyed it. The best Trumper fragrance in my opinion, superb, mossy barbershop number. I do enjoy my niche fragrances but there's I always get drawn back to old school beauties like this!

A 108 year old Witch-bottle of magical spells. A cool, breezy and grey overcast autumn day in a long abandoned medieval village that has been swallowed up by the mossy woods. Ancient memories. Eucris is an amazing fragrance that smells a lot like vintage Quorum without the pine. Beautiful effect on the psyche and it holds that first magical stage of the dry down all day when worn on your shirt. A true masterpiece that is a must have for all frag-heads. The bottle and packaging are also extremely beautiful. A perfect image for the scent. Many lifetimes ago. Wear this when casting spells. Just remember to "Harm None".

This is a very interesting one.
Last year the Edt was joined by the Edp. I love the smell itself and the shave cream is fresh and masculine. An instant classic. That said the Edt was to my senses too sweet. My heart sank when the Edp was announced. Sure enough out it came and took the best elements of the Eucris smell and shoved in your face in a boiled sweet. Awful.
That said those who like the 90s power house Polo and Loewe would like it.
All is not lost. It looks like G eof Trumper in their magnanimity repositioned the Edt and made it a tad lighter and fresher. It is still not as stunning as the smell of the shave cream but its just about a winner especially when you let it settle down. If you let the Edp settle down its like a sweet bomb that's gone off where you sprayed it.
I like the Edt but there really is space for a Eucris Fraiche in this line up. If so I'll be first in!

Fragrance: Shave cream: 9/10 Edt 7.5/10 Edp: 5.75/10
Longevity: 4/10, 6.5/10 7.5/10 respectively
Projection: 3, 6, 7.5 respectively

Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.

That's what I want to say. I want to give this a thumbs down. I want to discourage people from even so much as trying Eucris.

Unfortunately doing so runs the risk of sales plummeting and the discontinuation of this, my signature scent.

I think my fears either way (discontinuation or ubiquity) are unfounded. This will never be a popular fragrance. Every word you've read in all the reviews is true. Positive or negative.

It IS King Tut's tomb. This IS what Palpatine smells like.

Eucris is the embodiment of dour. It's not warm. It's not inviting. It's not going to attract people to you. It's not going make a woman nuzzle closer (my wife excepted). If those things happen, it's probably IN SPITE OF Eucris. It may very well turn otherwise happy people somewhat sullen.

That said, it works for me. It suits my demeanor exceedingly well.

This is a gothic and masculine masterpiece. It was created by the traditional English gentlemens' barber house Geo F. Trumper in 1912 as a hair dressing, and was purportedly the hair dressing of choice of James Bond in the novels by Sir Ian Fleming. In the 1980's it was released by the house as a cologne, in eau de toilette strength (notably stronger than their other colognes), and in 2015 as an eau de parfum (albeit in a smaller 50 ml bottle). I am reviewing the 100 ml eau de toilette. Although the hair dressing and cologne don't smell similar apparently (I've never tried the hair dressing), I can totally see this as James Bond's signature scent. It is austere, dark, and hyper-masculine and sort of smells like a niche version of Drakkar Noire - in fact it reminds me of my father who used to wear such oakmoss-heavy masculine fragrances back in the day. The scent would also be totally fitting for the Blade Runner universe as it is deeply traditional smelling yet contemporary and futuristic at the same time, oddly. The scent evokes the rain and stormclouds, and dark, somber tones. It is exactly what I imagine someone wearing in a Tim Burton movie. It is gothic, and as what one person said, "reminds you of crypts, old castles and cobbled stones under gaslight lamps with horse drawn carriages making there way through a rainy dark city". As for the scent itself, it is a dark oakmoss and blackcurrant blend. It is literally packed to the brim with oakmoss and is therefore very green and rainy, with the other major note being blackcurrant, with musk, and a very melancholic lily of the valley in the background. The eau de toilette comes in a beautiful dark ceramic splash bottle that totally represents the scent inside, and has a very good stoppage system for each drop that comes out (though I prefer to keep this in a travel atomizer and spray it). Sillage is strong with a minute amount splashed/sprayed yet oddly subtle at the same time, while longevity is quite good at over 8 hours on my skin. Overall, this is a masterpiece that deserves attention.

4.5/5