This is a rose fragrance from beginning to emended through and through. It opens with a gorgeous centifolia aroma, a rose in full bloom, intense, with just a delightful modicum of natural sweetness. Delicious.
Whilst this is indubitably a soliflore composition, there is still some development occurring with time. The rose becomes a bit lighter, and whiffs of the leaves and the wood of the stems shine through, although this remains a rose blossom creation at heart.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
A delightful rose scent for day and nighttime in spring, composed of high-quality ingredients executed well. Whilst a tad linear and lacking vivaciousness and depth at times, it is still a lovely gift for rose lovers. 3.5/5.
It's safe to say that 2016's Essences Insensées is a rose soliflore. Right from the beginning until its very end, it's almost entirely a suave, velvety cabbage rose. A subtle green spicy nuance accompanies the opening, while rich, sweet honey and tart, wine-like raspberry aspects render a voluptuous feeling in the heart and the dry down, yet the fragrance maintains a diffusive, weightless character, like the delicate pink petals of a rose flower.
Essences Insensées becomes a bit more musky with time. Thanks to the slight animalic aspect of honey, it manages to avoid the clean "shampoo" route. The sillage is quite soft, and it becomes an intimate skin scent after about 6 hours, but I can always smell its trace even after 12 hours.
I find 2016's Diptyque Essences Insensées a very pretty rose fragrance, showing all the charming side of rose in a quite natural way. But even though it does present different nuances of a cabbage rose, it's so focused on these characteristics of rose that it became kind of monotone in the long run. I'd definitely recommend it to ardent rose fans to give a try, or to those who would like to experience a cabbage rose soliflore, precisely because of its sole focus on rose. But it can also turn out to be a flaw to some people for the exact same reason.
This just doesn't smell expensive to me. If I may explain, there is an accepted artificial rose smell, a construct of berries and honey and musks that's quite common. Essences Insensées 2016 surrounds what Diptyque refers to as a fantastic and expensive harvest-specific Grasse rose with this framework that's usually used with cheap fake rose, so it just doesn't smell luxurious to me.
That's not to say it smells bad - there's a pinch of vetiver in there for green piquancy, as well as a touch of saffron for depth, and it's hard for a rose perfume of any sort to ever truly not smell good, but the overall sugar-coated soapy honey fruit structure that supports the rose just isn't presenting it in its best possible light. All in all, I think you could do better for the same basic price.