Equipage Géranium
Hermès (2015)

I am a lover of Equipage in the original version, I also have several spare bottles since for me it is a very particular perfume, to which I am particularly attached, a cornerstone of my wardrobe. I had expectations of a certain level for this flanker...nevertheless it took me time to try it because I've never felt like buying it in the dark, so I waited for a friend to offer me a small sample... I must say, unfortunately, that this version of my beloved Equipage does not fully convince me. Let's start by saying that the nutmeg so characteristic of its predecessor is still present but greatly attenuated. The geranium feels but not as I expected. In general it seems to me a duller and less characterized version of the firstborn of the Hermes house, a sort of simpleton cousin from the countryside visiting the more "sophisticated" relative of the city. This Geranium lacks something, perhaps depth and substance, of that masculinity so present in Equipage but equally well tamed by the crew" of the olfactory notes that compose it. Modest projection and duration, far inferior to the original of yesteryear and I say it with full knowledge. Am I saying that it's ugly? absolutely not.... it remains a beautiful perfume but, perhaps, not fully appreciated by those who, like me, are used to using the vintage version.

This is based on my bottle from 2015, the year Equipage Geranium was released. Blind bought this one based on reviews--and am quite happy I did! Finding this perfume quite beautiful even though it has only three listed notes--(geranium, spices and sandalwood). It's elegant simplicity that IMO can be worn just as easily with a suit and tie, or jeans and a dress or polo shirt.

Equipage Geranium immediately reminded me of "That Man" by Revlon both in the opening and mid, and now I understand why. "That Man" contains cloves and geranium, while EG contains geranium and spices. Both also include wood notes. I'd say these are both warm and spicey.

In the drydown Equipage Geranium reminds me very much of
Acqua di Parma Colonia. Both contain sandalwood, and like ADP Colonia, EG has a lovely soapiness in there.

Finally, on my skin, Equipage Geranium projects about 3 inches after about 5 to 10 minutes of stronger projection. The longevity is quite good, and I can detect it as a skin scent the next morning if applied the evening before. I love this perfume, and am happy it projects softly. Can even see this as a great scent for the office.

Gosh, but I’m weary of descriptions like “classy gentleman” and “30+ only” and “clean-shaven” and related Art of Manliness hokum. Missives like these tend to feel prescriptive rather than descriptive, and thus require shaking up from time to time. Equipage Geranium would smell great on a woman, or a scruffy young man, or a house cat. It’s a lean, clean, bright and well-heeled bit of springtime optimism, but it can also work in colder months as a spicy, woody warmer. Basically, I can’t imagine a situation where this stuff wouldn’t work. Perhaps it’s not an obvious scent of seduction, but how hackneyed are most of those, anyway? Equipage Geranium is too relaxed and assured to be self-consciously sexy.

Having never smelled the original Equipage, I can’t say how this “remix” - I struggle to think of it as a flanker in the traditional sense - compares, but it certainly smells like something with its footing in another era. There’s no mistaking the expert blending and tidy, quietly luxurious sillage from a time when perfumers weren’t subject to shoestring budgets and constant pressure to appeal to every dude 18 to 35. And yet, there’s a modern buoyancy and translucent “aura” effect that is arguably Jean-Claude Ellena’s signature, along with a sense of rugged refinement that marks his best masculine work. This makes Equipage Geranium surprisingly versatile and wearable in the present day without coming off as some sort of costume.

Notes-wise, I can pick out geranium, clove, vetiver, and sandalwood, with touches of moss and leather - I think - to ground the production without weighing it down. Like many classic (or classic-inspired) perfumes, though, the blending is so good that I struggle to parse all the components and would rather just sit back and bask in the beautiful sillage, brain off, pleasure receptors on. Equipage Geranium is a bulls-eye.

I adore the original classic Equipage (I have a review there as well) and was therefore hesitant to reach for a flanker for fear of being let down. However, that is far from the truth here. Equipage Geranium is a magnificent variation on a theme, with geranium pushing it into a more aromatic and somewhat green realm. Furthermore, for those where it matters, if they find original Equipage to be a bit too stuffy and dated (suit yourself!) we see it having a sort of more modern make-over, but without any of the trite attempts often seen in modern flankers of classics. Rest assured, this has all of the soapy, spicy, woody elegance of the classic retained, with some additional flair.

The opening is a gorgeous blast of aldehydes, saddle soap, and verdant, mildly rosy geranium. What a showstopper. This soon mellows to a sheer spice heart; my nose detects clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, coriander, among others. The geranium becomes just a bit rosier as the signature Hermes leather underpinnings become more evident. Further into the dry down, the geranium subsides and smooth, supple sandalwood takes its place.

Equipage Geranium is yet another example of Hermes bringing exemplary quality and refinement to its mainstream designer offerings, leaps and bounds beyond many other designer houses. What a terrific release.

This modern and creative formulation may not be for everyone. It has a bright cheerful and slightly feminine character that makes it Unisex in my view. Probably for warmer months in four season climates. There is something quite compelling about the sweet geranium and rose smell that dries down very nicely on my skin. Layered over 2 hour old Terre d'Hermes its awesome.... I like it!

No use in the real world outside of cognoscenti discussing its relative merits and perhaps for a fresh spritz for a lady. Pleasant, fresh but only moderately so becoming increasingly powdery and hardly any base at all. Soulless.
This is not unisex it's feminine.