Amouage (2020)

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About Enclave by Amouage

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Part of the Renaissance Collection and inspired by the fjords of Musandam.  Perfumer Julein Rasquinet says:

When I created Enclave, my idea was to capture the very special light of the sun setting on the fjords of Musandam. This moment, completely out of time, conveys opposite feelings that have extrapolated with contrasting ingredients.

I chose to express the deep freshness of the fjords with Spearmint and Cardamom Oils, which refresh the cliffs on which the sun has beaten down all day long. I imagined the feeling of that incredible heat with noted of AmberXtreme, Labdanum Resionoid and Cinnamon Oil, enriched with Rose Absolute and Saffiano, while earthy notes of Vetiver and Patchouli evoke hot lands and stones.

Fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

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Reviews of Enclave by Amouage

There are 5 reviews of Enclave by Amouage.

Enclave goes on skin with a light, fresh spearmint with hints of soft cinnamon and cardamom spice before gradually transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the natural smelling spearmint remains, continued to be supported by the soft cinnamon and cardamom spice, but now also supported by translucent floral rose and warm saffron. This slightly fiery "red hots" overall accord gradually cedes to at first a supporting vague synthetic woody amber accord that increases in intensity over time to take over the starring role about midway into the heart. During the late dry-down the synthetic woody amber accord dominates, as the rose and mint vacate, leaving remnants of the saffron and cardamom spice remaining in support through the finish. Projection is excellent, and longevity outstanding at nearly 20 hours on skin.

When I heard Julien Rasquinet was the perfumer behind Enclave, I was excited. Mr. Rasquinet is a real up-and-comer, with already outstanding compositions like The Moon by Frederic Malle under his belt. If capable of that kind of work among many others of interest, Enclave should be a safe bet, no? Well, in a word, "*No.*" Things start off well enough, with a pretty enticing natural smelling spearmint and warm spice open... But when the spearmint and warm spice join a thin, transparent rose in the early heart the composition begins to smell like fiery red hots candy, but with an odd soft detergent-like floral bent. Things go from bad to worse when the *real* star of the show arrives... a vague synthetic smelling woody amber accord that starts off in the background, but gradually takes control and overpowers most of the other notes, save the warm spice. The bottom line is the $340 per 100ml bottle Enclave is probably the talented Julien Rasquinet's worst work, earning a "poor" 2 stars out of 5 rating and an avoid recommendation.
Aug 22, 2021

Stardate 20210610:

The top is beautiful. The juxtaposition of mint with spice is done beautifully.
But then as the top fades, all you are left with mediocre raspy woody AC and cardamom.
A shame really.
Jun 11, 2021

My first whirl of Enclave was on a blustery spring day and I sought it out for the cool-warm promise of its listed notes. Such juxtapositions are hard to pull off and I was curious whether this one would succeed. There’s a lot going on in Enclave for sure but it’s all emerging from a minty overrun. The herb that will take over your garden if not properly contained threatens to do the same initially for Enclave. Here it is fresh and cooling and pretty realistic, but associations with toothpaste will arise nevertheless. The rest of the perfume emerges from this somewhat chilly cloak with a degree of difficulty. It’s in the mode of a square-jawed spicy gents’ scent – with pepper, cardamom and cinnamon combining with woody-amber stuff and a touch of leather, all providing the requisite butch front for the floral sweetness that is pushed firmly back like a dirty secret. So far, so conventional – and then there’s the mint on top. I find it difficult to make my peace with it; it’s a bit like a takeaway packing mistake – the dessert crammed into the same container as the rest of the meal.
Eventually the mint recedes, but now the problem shifts from the muddle of the earlier stages to the desultory nature of what’s left – a forgettably middle-of-the-road woody-spicy mood-flattener.
May 8, 2021

If i had to blind sniff enclave man, i would bet money that it was released by parfums de marley! Its sharp, strong and smells overly synthetic. Specially if, like me, you have a bad habit of rubbing ur nose on ur fist every few minutes like a junkie!
Perhaps it does its intended job at a distance. And most people forget about what they are wearing after spraying it on, leaving a trail for other to smell. But they way i am consumed by fragrances, enclave man rubs me totally the wrong way.
Perhaps a lot of amouages do at some point in their development, but over the years i have learnt to be patient with them. In doing so i have changed my opinions about quite a few of the. Dare i say i have actually fallen in love with some. But even in the drydown, where most amouages shine, this one was merely passable.
Apr 11, 2021

Welcome to the Amouage mass-appeal fragrance, the Amouage scent Parfums de Marly fans have been waiting a lifetime for, and the scent that old-schoolers clutching their bottles of Amouage Gold Man (1983) and waiting for the perfume end times have been fearing for years. Is it really as dire as I make it sound? Well, no. There is no shortage of legacy catalog that Amouage is usually good about keeping around, and some of those sell really stupidly well, so Amouage Enclave (2020) doesn't much threaten to disrupt the status quo, but gives guys usually more into brands like the aforementioned PdM or Maison Francis Kurkdjian something to bite on. Enclave is part of the "Renaissance Collection", which features inspiration from locales and scenes around Oman. The perfumer here is Julien Rasquinet, and he does a good job of merging a bit of "that ol' Amouage" with the mass-appeal foundation here. Categorically, this is a chypre because of the labdanum and leather base, but there is a lot of other stuff going on that steers it more towards something like Montblanc Explorer (2019) or Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Urban Feel (2019). Also, the entire collection is issued without gender, but the gendered bottles usually imply who's gonna want to wear these, and are mostly on point.

The opening of Amouage Enclave is a minty cardamom and pink pepper bomb. Amouage decided to join Western designer perfumes with the abuse of pink pepper and to a lesser extent cardamom with this collection, and Enclave is no exception. The mint is the real make-or-break factor here, and does sort of come across a bit toothpasty like Dirty by Lush (2002), but I sorta dig that myself. Cinnamon is another major player, but not heaped on like it is in Amouage Crimson Rocks (2020), which is also from the collection, and not smelling of candy. The heart mixes a jammy rose and denatured "Western" patchouli, the thick non-green stuff slathered into most mass-appeal orientals and "fruitchoulis" conjured up by the likes of Armani and Gucci anymore, but it works. Some parts of me feel like this may have been a workprint for a men's Crimson Rocks at some point, because the rose/cinnamon/pink pepper combo is very similar, but Enclave goes its own way towards the finish. Vetiver, pasty/musky labdabum, ambrocenide (a woody-amber), and the same leather molecule found in Montblanc Explorer finish this out (evidently called Saffiano after the leather of the same name). Wear time is more like a classic Amouage at all-day length but projection is just shy of monstrous in the way 2000's Amouage was. Best use is fall through spring, and this feels pretty generalist.

Amouage Enclave looks to compete with the various Gucci Guilty pour Homme (2011) variants, the various heavy hitters from Parfums de Marly like Layton (2016) and could almost be a more-youthful take on Amouage Interlude Black Iris (2020) released just ahead of this new collection. The woody-amber base and smooth dry down on the way there alongside the dynamic mint and spice will defintely turn heads with the "beastmode br0" backwards hat Instagram types that like to pose with bottles while doing pushups on the roofs of their cambered Subaru street racers (pardon while I vomit), but the rest of us not so obsessed with validation may find this a bit too "witness me" for use. Regardless, Amouage Enclave isn't quite the "Metallica Black Album" sellout release from the brand, as it's just weird enough to keep mallrats in love with Paco Rabanne Invictus (2013) from embrancing it, and still costs more than triple the retail of what they use, but gets dangerously closer to "compliment juice" than anything released under Christopher Chong's watch, even if the rest of the "Renaissance Collection" is more "French perfume" by comparison. Enclave is the second-best behind Amouage Ashore (2020) and too likeable to find any real fault but also a bit too soulless for me to enjoy on myself, although I'd not be upset catching it in the street on someone else. Thumbs up.
Oct 2, 2020

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