Coty (1921)

Average Rating:  54 User Reviews

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Émeraude by Coty

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About Émeraude by Coty

People & Companies

Fragrance House
François Coty

Photograph courtesy of Alexandra Star of Parfums de Paris.

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Reviews of Émeraude by Coty

There are 54 reviews of Émeraude by Coty.

Right now I have vintage Guerlain Chamade extrait on my.left wrist and vintage Coty Emeraude on my right. To say they smell very similar is an understatement. Emeraude is slightly sweeter. Stronger and longer lasting too. Chamade is very good, but you get more bang for your buck with Emeraude. I can see why Coty was such a well respected perfume house.

Last year, I bought a 1960s-era 'flacon mist' bottle of Coty's Emeraude on ebay for like $11, and it is honestly one of the best fragrances that I now own. I had to decant it into a modern bottle, because the old sprayer was broken, but who cares?!? It smells heavenly! Emeraude is the quintessential oriental perfume, preceding even the great bat-wing by a year or two. I read that Shalimar was composed under the influence of this peridot-green masterpiece. If you see an old bottle available for sale that has been stored in a granny's dresser drawer for the last seventy years or so, go for it! She's such a beauty!

This was my mom's signature scent through the 60's and the 70's, right up to the moment she received her first bottle of Opium. I'm sure this was better back in its heyday, but I don't judge a scent based on my (possibly faulty) memory. I judge the scent under my nose. I still love It, even today's drugstore cheap-o. Rather than disrespect it for what it's lost, I love it for what it still has - a nice drydown and nice memories.

Citrus and herbs: the opening of bergamot, mandarin and tarragon is quite unique and quite pleasant indeed - well done!

The drydown soon adds quite a dark jasmine, which blends in well with the rose impression that emerges slowly. It is a darker rose on me, not velvety or rich; this more an elegant and lighter rose. Further into the drydown a smooth ylang-ylang is added that is neither very creamy nor very rich, but very pleasant nonetheless.

The base is characterised by woodsy undertones, but particularly by a benzoin characteristic in the foreground, which is combined with a darker and mellow patchouli. A good skillfully placed opoponax impression emerges gradually, which is counterbalanced by the restrained sweetness of the tonka that developed further towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely spring citrus-herb-floral scent for spring evenings that lacks a bit of vividness and intensity, but that is blended well if good-quality ingredients. 3.75/5.

A strange, citrus-green opening. It reminds me of some sort of cleaning product - in a good way. It's clean; interesting mix of herb and citrus. I went through about a dozen bottles of Emeraude back in the 80's. To be honest, I'd forgotten how this smelled. Guess what? I still love this inexpensive juice. I paid three dollars for my current bottle, that I acquired at a flea market...

Wood begins to blend in, with the top notes. Wood, takes the edge off, rounds out the citrus-green accord. Florals move in, turning this into a more recognizable perfume. The amber-like, oriental notes quickly begin to appear.

I whole-heartedly concur with N.Cal's comparison, to this being a combo of L'Heure Blue and Shalimar, or a halfway similarity thereof. A poor man's Guerlain - that is probably why I wore so much of it in my youth. Still, there are some differences here. There is a bit of dirtiness here - some slight animalic tendencies underneath.

Benzoin, patchouli, and opoponax are the stars of the base notes, IMO. This becomes earthy, like soil. Vanilla shines here as well. More woodiness comes in to play, with the sandalwood.

Emeraude is the sort of perfume most purists decry. Not me. I like its history, cheap simplicity, and the fact that it is still around (for now). It may be a tad weaker than it was 30 years ago - I can't clarify.

Vanilla and amber-like notes last and last.

Halfway between L'Heure Bleue and Shalimar. I get the powdery iris, heliotrope florals from L'Heure Bleue and the powdery vanillin from Shalimar.

If I had samples of both scents from the 1950s or somewhere around that era, I would've done a layering experiment and then do a side to side comparison between L'Heure and Shalimar on one wrist and Emeraude on the other.

It's very beautiful and elegant. One would definitely enjoy if s/he enjoys the powdery iris/vanilla accord. Two examples comes to mind: the silver collar formulation of Dior Homme Intense and Carner Barcelona D600. D600 had the inclusion of the cardamon note that over powered the vanilla/iris accord which I ended up not enjoying at all. Dior Homme Intense is my preference for the vanilla/iris accord. Not sure if I would reach for Emeraude personally since I already have Dior Homme Intense as my vanilla/iris choice. It's definitely a nice comfort scent.

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