Well, ping my pong, this is a surprise. A weird three-point opening of a fruity rose doing the attract-repel thing with some green coriander doing the attract-repel thing with a mossy chypric base. I feared these protagonists would snarl-smile at each other through the course but just a few minutes in things began to merge much better the rose and chypre base became absorbed into an old-fashioned slightly spicy, lipsticky whole and the greener elements vanished. Here is a rose that tries out and discards clashing apparel to stick to the safer formality of something inherited from a beloved aunt. I like the fullness of Eau Suave it lights up an olfactory spectrum of floral, spicy, musky, chypric tones but the sum of these elements seems to be a composition that seems both elusive and yet distinctly reminiscent of old cosmetics. It teases me, but in a good way.
This formula first appeared in the early eighties when Coty released a new reformulated "Chypre," which bore no relation to its original masterpiece. This caraway rose formula has been copied over and over again. Lancome's original Magie Noire's dry down smelled like this, though the body of that fruity floral masterwork did not.
In any case, here I smell no fruits, just the caraway and the rose. It's a nice scent, but since it's pretty much an out and out copy, I can only give it a neutral for lack of originality.
Parfume d'Empire - Eau Sauve
A good perfume made with ditto materials that in the end misses a slight focus on its projection during its early dryout. The opening is very promising with a blast of peppery cumin, coriander and saffron - heated up by the idea of incense; I like good, expressive openings in a perfume. It gets to smell really fruity - like a nectarine and strawberry-juice that has been aromatized with lemonpeels that gives it a guava-tropical and orangey touch with a hint of clove. This grows into a moist-greenish fruity tone with a juicy 'snapped stem'-note, which to my taste gets a bit too sweet and easygoing. It gets a sourish-note like ginger, a soft floral note of lavender and somehow I spotted a light touch of tobacco.. A more raw and serious oily-green note grows with a more tight and grip-feel to it; while at the same time losing expression of its aromaticness. It gets a bit 'tame' and a bland taste to it, growing into a more airy-mentholic and very soft soapy/mossy kind of way, together with the pulpfruit-fleshy note of osmanthus(?), a pinch of rose and the green toned down to a herbal green-tea note.
A very joyful perfume with a soft, easy, friendly character and a 'natural' harmonious flow to it - never aggressive but always polite in a well-dressed kind of manner. Must smell very nice on a woman in springtime thats enjoying lunch in the sun with her soulmate - Eau Sauve is a good perfume to accompanying a good friend, good food and a good glass of Soave...
A fresh, green, springtime rose, quite sheer, delicate and polite; like a faint echo of Diptyque's much better-known L'Ombre dans L'Eau. Despite the fruit notes, Eau Suave is not very sweet, nor loud; I would put this is the 'office-safe' category for either gender, although it does swing a bit more feminine. Good longevity; 8 hours from 4 sprays. Average to low projection. 3/5, with one point knocked off for erring on the 'too timid' side and another for being a fruity/floral - I just don't like 'em! Worth a try if you do.
The opening of Eau Suave is a wonderfully strong fruity floral blast, but unlike so many similarly-styled womens' fragrances on the market today, this stuff's opening is spicy rather than sweet, and is really bordering on the masculine.
I find the opening few minutes to be extremely similar to Alain Delon's Iquitos (sans aldehydes).
In the progression, Eau Suave becomes very much its own scent - it softens down into a very alluring scent that treads back into more feminine territory thanks to the berries (which are, again, natural-smelling rather than sweet). The projection reduces, but is certainly still above average.
The musk comes to the fore in the drydown, and here lies the only criticism I have of this fragrance - after an hour or two it no longer smells like an utterly unique fragrance, rather you'd swear you've smelled it before.
A very good fragrance, and definitely a viable option for men, if this stuff retained a more powerful or interesting dry-down I'd stock up in a heartbeat.
Eau Suave means sweet water. If you know French, you say, why are you telling me this? And if you dont know French, you just learned something (just like me!). Eau Suave is a fruity rose chypre. The rose is very bright and loud. I generally dont like fruity notes with roses they cheapen the rose to me and it is no exception here. There are some delicate spices in the background, but they get lost in the noise. I dont like this one.
This is the weak one in the excellent PdE line! I can't say exactly what's wrong for me with this fragrance, but I lose interest after a couple of seconds, when the intriguing patchouli note disappears behind a thick and almost nose irritating curtain of indefinite, musky bright fruit and flowers (it's hard to detect roses or raspberries or whatever listed).
Eau Suave is not the type of fragrance that I appreciate, but, all things considered, it is impressive. Its fresh, well balanced, has excellent longevity. Its made of excellent quality materials, and is a bit edgy a bit unusual with its touch of menthol Its a fruity / floral for a real grown-up. Its opening is cleanly aromatic with just a bit of spice I even enjoy the saffron. I have to admit that I dont smell the roses theres no rose note for me, but I do get the fruit, and I admire how pleasant the fruit notes are even though I dont ordinarily care for fruit notes. The main aspect of the fragrance, though, is the aromatics: Theres a menthol-like note that is present from beginning to end. This aromatic note provides the clean, fresh feeling and tones done the sweetness of the fruit and, eventually, the vanilla. This is a refreshing, enjoyable feminine fragrance and the mythically connecting of this to Josephine is cute and charming.
Eau Suave is indeed lovely, and not a straight up rose (which works for me since Im not a rose person). Many of the PdE scents have an enveloping quality to me like wearing a nice cashmere shawl, and Eau Suave is no exception. I also get a lot of saffron, which probably adds to the suave effect.
Eau Suave is meant to evoke the era of a lounging Josephine, but reminds me a more of a feisty Napoleon. This is a leathery, spicy rose that is far more masculine in nature than I anticipated. It opens in a burst of mentholated rosiness (think dried eucalyptus and rosebuds), sweet but not heady and significantly soapy but not acrid. It evolves into a cranberry-laced kind of potpurri---think dried cranberries, deep red roses and plum pudding. It dries down like a bitter syrup of cloves, cinnamon and simmering blooms, yet still retains a subtle leathery menthol that would make this a lovely men's cologne.
I really am a passionate admirer of Parfum d'Empire. Eau Suave is the one that I always brand the most boring and then I try it again and remember how lovely it is, and also quite strange. It's interesting, because on me the opening is quite dry and lavendery, and then I get the full bodied floral hit, then a fruity end. It all seems to match though. How does it do that?!
My take on this one is different than Caltha's, and actually than the ingredient list, which includes rose, raspberry, pepper, coriander, saffron, vanilla, and white musk. This is a sensual, beautiful, dry rose leather on me. The rose is the predominant floral and the rest of the ingredients ended up spelling leather on my skin. It took two tries for it to click in with me - on my first try, I wasn't that interested. Then a week later the chemistry kicked in or my nose finally put it together, and I found it compulsively sniffable. Do give this one several tries if you don't like it on the first. Some fragrances are like that - they seem to need time to get your notice, just like some people. This one has become bottle-worthy for me.
So many great ingredients but it all adds up to a boring, nondescript floral/fruity feminine perfume. I'm sure those who are into that kind of fragrances will adore it, but for me the only interesting part is the sweet red berry opening.