Eau de Patou (original) fragrance notes

  • Head

    • petitgrain, orange, sicilian lemon, lime
  • Heart

    • honeysuckle, pepper, tunisian orange blossom, ylang ylang, nasturcia
  • Base

    • amber, musk, civet, oakmoss

Where to buy

Latest Reviews of Eau de Patou (original)

You need to log in or register to add a review
I so agree with the majority of you. This is quality beyond anything you will find in today’s department stores. I actually think he leans slightly more pour Homme than femme, however, I also believe that all fragrances are genderless, if you love it were it and enjoy it.
I live in the UK and have just managed to secure a brand-new sealed 100 ML vintage splash bottle for £30. I had just beforehand purchased a 50 ML vintage spray for £28 and thought I’d landed an amazing bargain. The quality of the citrus notes and their lasting power considering the age of the fragrance is phenomenal, as is the overall quality of all the ingredients and the blending as well. Patou fragrances in vintage form. I feel are Simply unbeatable. I have a very old vintage Roger & Gallet pour monsieur cologne splash and this layers perfectly also with vintage Versace pour Homme.
19th May 2023
Eau de Patou was introduced in 1976, when women's tastes in perfume were changing: musty/dusty/fusty "airless salon" moods were "out", and people were looking for scents that were fresher and more outdoorsy... what was then called a "Sport" fragrance. It was around 1970 that a popularity grew for scents containing "green" notes.

Eau de Patou is the epitome the natural intelligence, charm and sophistication that a few women have in an effortless way. I think of a classy french lady, I think about Eau de Patou. Very sparkling and almost airy on the first top notes.. the first impression is very shy.. very 'ladylike'.. clean, citrusy and wet.. like a fresh garden in the morning.. the citruses are elegant and slowly show a tender floral heart. A mossy wet green accord and some herbs but the ultimate note is revealed on the drydown.. a dirty/animalic musk, skanky as hell comes to overcome the initial burst of lightness and poise; this french lady has her sexy side.. she represents all the 70's freedom with classy feel to it.. the musk lingers on skin as a silky caress with some "dirty flowery" tone to it.. clean but dirty at the same time.

Pure citrus colognes evanesce very quickly on the skin, but the rich structure of Eau de Patou keeps the tart citrus hanging around for a long. An undisputed masterpiece of bucolic, rural, elegant countryside smells, meant to integrate INTO life, instead of standing outside of it screaming "I am perfume. Smell me to forget about life." . I think a woman wearing this does not need or want to seduce anybody. She feels free and happy and she is wearing her happiness and freedom. young woman makes sense, now. The eternal green chypre. Bitter, green, grass. Thumbs up, definitely.
1st January 2023

ADVERTISEMENT
I just could not resist the eye-catching futuristic, brutalist monolith of a bottle. Come on now...it's inconic for sure. I expected it to be a decent "eau" with nothing to write home about, but I was surprised, stunned even...

Then again, this is Jean Patou we are discussing, how could it not be outstanding really? It opens magnificently with your classic bracing citrus, but the sensuous sunshine sings immediately through the florals that really radiate on my skin. I then detect one of the more convincing honeysuckle notes that I've encountered in a fragrance: somehow both voluptuous and airy, honeyed and mouthwatering.

It is the low-key civet in the dry down that really cinches Eau de Patou. This is the hallmark, what makes it oh so Patou, because its dosed in just such a manner where it exalts, of all things, a citrus floral. Therein lies the beauty, an "eau chypre", mossy, musky, with a dusting of animal magic.

And that damn bottle...I want to inhabit it.
9th March 2022
Eau de Patou (1976) is a gorgeous summery chypre that was composed by then house perfumer Jean Kerleo, something of a "maestro of oakmoss" in my books because oakmoss was a singular star player and the anchor of every fragrance he made, causing the bulk of his work to be in the chypre genre consequently. In 1976 he was hot on the heels of his own creation, the esteemed rose perfume called 1000 (1972), and because so much work went into that one, Eau de Patou feels much more relaxed. Of interesting note, this perfume changed packaging multiple times over the years, was sold to women at first, but ended up being liked by men, which is why it should really be considered an early forerunner to the unisex craze that would break out 20 years later. A few other houses tried deliberate unisex fragrances in the 70's too, including Balenciaga with the original market copy for Ho Hang (1972), then Yves Saint Laurent with Eau Libre (1975) the year prior to Eau de Patou, with neither of those attempts seeming to pan out. Ho Hang had success with men and was saved the axe, but Eau Libre was not so lucky, which is why I think Eau de Patou was likely never directly labelled as unisex by Jean Patou despite so many packaging variations and a fanbase across gender lines. Fans of scents like Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955), Diorella by Christian Dior (1972), Ô de Lancôme (1969), or Équipage by Hermès (1972) should love Eau de Patou, as it falls right into that same wheelhouse of dark citrus over soapy florals, with a spicy/leathery oakmoss chypre base flanked by amber and or musk (depending on example).

Eau de Patou starts things off with petitgrain, orange, lemon and lime, with a distinct lack of the usual sharp bergamot setting this one apart from most others. From this cheerful and semi-sweet opening hails a mix of honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, neroli, and nasturium. The latter is an interesting peppery sort of flower, and the name translates roughly to "nose twister", giving Eau de Patou a piquant quality that contrasts the soapy-sweet neroli and citrus mix. Soon after the chypre base settles in clearly and resolute, with oakmoss turned up loud in the mix as per the usual Jean Kerleo style, flanked with amber, civet, and sandalwood. For such a relatively simple chypre, the ingredient quality (particularly with vintage examples) leads to resounding fullness of aroma, yet everything is still fresh and easy on the nose, as even the richer base notes are in full balance. The civet adds skin retention but never feels like a urinal, and woody mossy facets are so smooth it's hard to see where they and the judiciously-applied amber separate. I imagine this was designed to be a hot weather casual-wear scent, but it has enough staying power and projection to last in cold weather as well, and because chypres are seen as old-fashioned anymore, may also serve well when dressed up. Wear time goes for about 8 hours of good performance too, which is nice. Also, if you didn't get the message early on, Eau de Patou is very much unisex so far as tastes go, despite whatever the old magazine ads may say if you dig them up.

Jean Patou re-orchestrated this when a series of reissues were launched in the 21st century, using uniform bottles, and these do-overs were not overseen by Jean Kerleo, so I can't speak much to them, but enough of Eau de Patou was sold that it should yet be a very long time before vintage becomes truly rare, and if it is by the time you read this review, I might consider you to take the plunge anyway because this is fundamental French perfume at its finest. Yeah, a mossy base might be out of style for the trend-conscious, but if you're willing to blow hundreds on niche re-visitations of classic styles like the kind Roja Dove puts out or Tom Ford issues in his Private Collection, you should do a turnabout and try this on for size instead. It's pretty rare altogether to find something that rides a razor's edge between fresh and warm, doing so without a ton of chemical wizardry or so much blending as to be a fussy "blob" of smell, making Eau de Patou that much more of a revelation for someone who has spent too much time investigating "middle of the road" options only to find they lean too far one way or the other. Not that I am going to insult Eau de Patou by giving it the dreaded tag of "generalist", but it is something that a person of any type, gender, or lifestyle could pull off as a year-round signature so long as they enjoy oakmoss, and has more personality than a bottle of Calvin Klein cK One (1994), which something I say with love because I like cK One a lot. Maybe Kerleo wasn't making a perfume for summer, but rather a perfume that just is summer in a bottle? Whatever it is, I'm sold. Thumbs up.
5th April 2020
Beautiful scent, particularly for Summer. Feminine? Maybe. Closer to genderless to my tastes.
Bright Citrus top. Finessed use of the Honeysuckle with the Orange Blossom and bit of Peppery Nasturtium to counter the sweetness. Musky, Oakmoss Canvas turns to a perfect Ambered Savon. Civet? Perhaps for a little angling to scent human.
This competes well with Vintage Pour Monsieur, Eau Sauvage, Dior Eau Fraiche for the sexy, classy Citrus supported by real Oakmoss depth.
Recommended.
26th May 2018
Wow, what a beauty...So, I put a few fragrances on hold at a store & went in to pick them y'day - just glanced around & noticed the older conical shaped Eau de Patou bottle - store's SA mentions those were not fragrances (but probably body creams etc), but the SA brings out 2 X 60ml splash bottles of the Eau de Patou from inside. As I'm a regular, I asked if I could sample one of them, just to see what condition the jus was in & lo - perfection in a citrus...Agree with most of what drseid mentions, but unlike him, I just love the deep oakmoss in the basenotes of this (another) excellent Jean Kerleo / Jean Patou creation. This has a lot of similarity to another fragrance created by the same duo - Lacoste Eau de Sport, but Eau de Patou is miles ahead in terms of depth due to the beautiful, strong oakmoss. Buy it if you see it, there aren't going to be beauties like these in the future...
1st August 2016
Show all 22 Reviews of Eau de Patou (original) by Jean Patou