Eau de Metal
Paco Rabanne (1986)

This wasn't bad but it wasn't necessary either.
It's basically the pale green chypre of Y, with powder, and a dash of No5 Eau de Parfum (also 1986).
It made a change from the mid eighties circus of Poison, Ysatis and Coco, but being different for the sake of it isn't enough, you have to go your own way boldly, something Paco Rabanne was wont to do in fashion - as in perfume.
This was just going over old ground.

Eau de Metal is luxury and ease, cleanliness and sensuality, appeal and inaccessibility, audacity and delicacy, understatement and fullness, closeness outside and unlimited freedom inside. It is quite a multifaceted scent on close inspection, with citrus, aldehyde, woody and herbal accords at different points during the drydown.

This time of year, when in my part of the world we are still at least two months from any green in nature, Eau de Metal comes out of hiding as an early reminder that spring is on its way. The days are getting longer, the sky is blue and there is hope in the air. Eau de Metal is as dry and cold as the driest champagne on ice, but also as effervescent and playful. This is a very green, woody scent; the flowers are not easy to detect, but lends a sweetness to the transition from the energetic green in the top and middle notes, to the relaxed woodiness in the base. There is a hint of too-sweet Lemon Pledge that is fleeting and infrequent, moving away from that quality so rapidly that it's actually nice, like a quick taste of candy. I believe these transformative powers are due to skillful use of aldehydes, making this fragrance sparkle.

The hyacinth and galbanum and vetiver floating into the sky, bobbing amongst the clouds. The oakmoss holds their balloon strings, ensuring they don't drift too far up into the atmosphere. And, in a way, that's how Eau de Metal feels too grounded and clear-headed, bright and purposeful. Bright, uplifting and uncompromising but austere at same time.

Eau de Metal opens with sharp nose tingling aldehydes, with a natural smelling hyacinth floral in initial support. As the composition moves to its early heart, the aldehydes take a back seat to the hyacinth that now shifts to the starring role, with yellow floral ylang-ylang and white floral lily-of-the-valley joining the aldehydes in support. Significant mossy green oakmoss emerges as co-star, adding a musky-woody undertone to the overall complex mix. During the late dry-down, the composition remains relatively linear, as the aldehydes vacate and the florals gradually recede, leaving remnants of the green-woody oakmoss to pair with relatively clean synthetic musk through the finish. Projection is excellent and longevity outstanding at over 20 hours on skin.

I must say that initially Eau de Metal took a bit of time to win me completely over. It was evident from the start that the composition was extremely well-crafted, but something about the piercing aldehydes, coupled with the hyacinth-driven florals just seemed like it might be a bit too much to comfortably wear for this writer. That said, I think the oakmoss that is quite prominent in the heart section, acts enough as a binder to bring the aldehydic florals down to earth to make the whole thing work. Once you wear Eau de Metal a couple times it is hard to dismiss the obvious skill that perfumer Robert Gonnon exhibits to combine all the ingredients into a slightly challenging, but completely successful concoction. The bottom line is the sadly discontinued $65 per 50ml bottle on the aftermarket 80's release Eau de Metal is just another fine example of the amazing perfume output of that great decade and an equally fine display of perfumer Gannon's skill, earning an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to all vintage perfume collectors.

Another hidden disappeared gem for us and one of the most sublime "Odes" to the gorgeous note of ylang-ylang I've stumbled upon in my miserable life of southern solitary perfumista :-). Eau de Metal, yes a classic treasure straight from the "old style" Paco Rabanne's glorious "course", welcomes us dramatically (I'd say "metallically" in a quite angular, edgy, aldehydic-herbal-sharply floral-earthy-leafy-botanic way and just for twenty seconds or few more) before quickly morphing in to one of the most apparently "soapy-neutral-abstract-mossy" (but actually complexly floral) bases I've ever experienced on my "experienced" mediterranean skin. Eau de Metal is basically a musky-floral concoction (smelling finally at same time subtle-floral-chic and warmly organic-musky on skin) and the dry down is almost identical to a familiar aroma for me, namely the one of bath-foam Nidra Latte Palmolive (being Eau de Metal surely more subtle, complex, musky-boise and nuanced). Despite a veritable massive floral presence the floral perception is moderate under the nose (like something substantially restrained) because of a really dominant and catalysing soapy-musky vibe. White musk and oakmoss are complemented by soapy amber, balsams, tonka and by a complex "flori-herbal" bouquet (mastered by rose, hyacinth and ylang-ylang). The first blast is edgy with its lamellar twist of leaves, bitter-green notes, aldehydes, green earthiness (vetiver) and aromatics. A musky aura is by soon evident in its balmy substance supported by a sheer ambery soapy presence with a multicolored floral kaleidoscope of sophisticated nuances (jasmine, iris, ylang-ylang, hyacinth). Ylang-ylang is super chic, radiant and exotic while a musky hyacinth enhances a dominant "neutral" mossy (earthy-humid) atmosphere throughout (kind of vaguely earthy, mouldy, camphoraceous and boise). All the laminal elements gradually tame their "fury" tending to slide towards a more silky musky-soapy-floral atmosphere mastered by musky amber and chic/exotic ylang-ylang. Dry down is warm/musky/soapy on skin, is like a dive in the most heavenly hot foamy bathtub of this universe (spumous, milky, laundry-neutral, dreamy) but is super chic and sophisticatated "at distance" as well. Ylang-ylang and hyacinth are the royal elements of this marvelous soapy bouquet providing a surprisingly modern glamour "unisex" vibe. This juice is disappeared from the shelves but is still incredibly modern and timeless in its attractive intimate aura. A great pity its disappearance.

A rare treasure, but one definitely worth seeking out. This rather unique release by Paco Rabanne is part of the rich history of the house. It came out in 1986, and was actually, according to some old marketing I found, released "for Men". Here, on Basenotes, it is classified as a "Feminine" scent. However, most people who have worn it would probably agree it is truly Unisex. The bottle I have is not as shown, but instead came in a reddish/silver box with a big silver "Pr" logo on it with the bottle having the large, Vintage "Pr" logo - clear glass with all red lettering, no white border or white cap. The cap is actually black and is as wide as the bottle. You can find what I am talking about on Ebay, hopefully.

The notes here are actually wonderful! A vibrant opening of aldehydes, hyacinth (gorgeous here), lily-of-the-valley, rose (not dominant), jasmine and a nice note of ylang-ylang as well as a light iris which offers a touch of powder. There is also basil, which adds a nice green, herbal note that balances nicely and carries into the heart of florals.

The base is well-done as it doesn't dominate the florals. You will find oakmoss (more of a fixative than a note, but it is there and keeps the green notes alive and the florals fresh), a light vetiver, a touch of warm amber and a nice clean white musk.

On my skin, I find it to be very fresh and a wonderful radiating aura scent with just a single spray! I have done a wearing (3-4 shots or so) on a warm spring day and it lasted for hours. Definitely a scent for men who want to explore fragrant florals on their skin and don't mind presenting their feminine archetype (as Carl Jung would express). I have a static feminine with a dominant masculine, but I feel totally confident and comfortable wearing this. A composition to admire and one you will not find in today's mainstream boredom.

Glorious and harmonious. One of the better (and least known) Paco Rabanne bottlings, Eau de Metal in the clear glass (no white border) and red lettering with the red & silver box. I prefer to wear it during Spring, Summer and Fall days - with sunshine! The sensation is one of the flowers opening on your skin when the rays of sunlight interact with this fragrance. I deeply love masculine florals - and this one is even short of that and is fully Unisex (my wife wears it and it smells amazing on her as well). Enjoy...this is truly beautiful!!