Eau Capitale 
Diptyque (2019)

Average Rating:  8 User Reviews

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Eau Capitale by Diptyque

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About Eau Capitale by Diptyque

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Eau Capitale is a shared scent launched in 2019 by Diptyque

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Reviews of Eau Capitale by Diptyque

There are 8 reviews of Eau Capitale by Diptyque.

Rose and patchouli - these are the two notes the greet men in the opening burst. It is a nice rose, centering around the blossom, with only a touch of the leaves in the background for part of the time. The patchouli does not hide, it is is more on the smooth side and not very harsh or sharp on me. This is a bright start.

Otherwise a weak bergamot in the background supports the bright character of the whole, with a restrained impression of white peppers providing just a modicum of crispness. After the first four hours, the later stages are much less intense, with a nondescript flowery aroma remaining close to my skin until the end.

I get on the whole moderate sillage, good projection for the first tho thirds of its development, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent lives on the rose and the patchouli, which are quite nice, but not of a level of quality or beauty that would compensate completely for its shortcomings, i.e. the generic and pallidly anemic second part towards the ending, which is very close to my skin. Overall 2.75/5

It was getting late in the day for Dityque to be going down the rose-patchouli chypre route and perhaps it shows. This is a creation that joins the dots and forms an agreeable whole, with little spikes of pink peppercorn and hints of cumin that mess up the almost transparent mode of its delivery – but it somehow fails to catch fire. What's at fault? Perhaps a ‘safety first' attitude or is it restraint, when perhaps a bit more indulgence would have produced more satisfying results? It seems to be aiming for the sheen of something like MFK's Lumiere Noire Pour Homme but not quite getting there. Or is it the less brash sibling of Portrait of a Lady? Comparisons may be odious but perhaps that's my problem with Eau Capitale – that it seems to elicit them rather than my being captured by the thing itself.

Fine, but a little uninspiring. I like that Eau Capitale avoids the clichéd berries that ruin so many rose perfumes. I like the powdery violets on top and the juiciness in the middle. But somehow, despite all that, I just don't care for Eau Capitale that much. I can't really find fault, but this just smells like what someone who knows nothing about perfume thinks perfume smells like. Meh.

Eau Capitale is a clean, true rose fragrance that lasts for hours until it slowly winds through a clear patchouli base that leaves a slight woody clean finish although it doesn't change the overall light rose fragrance aroma. The opening is what I would call bubblegum rose - syrupy sweet + pink powdery rose which is not as subtle and expansive as true rose oil but this phase doesn't last long. By the mid notes dry pink pepper & bergamot rose scent emerges. Patchouli is mentioned but unlike other rose scents where the patchouli is natural and green, this scent has a transparent clear patchouli that mostly adds dryness to complete the pink peppercorn opening. Rose as a fragrance is never boring when it is done this well, however when there is not a bold contrasting note to modify or define the rose scent, it often is interpreted as a feminine note or an old fashioned rose. When comparing Eau Capitale to other rose scents I notice that almost every one I tested outshines the rose in this Diptyque and they all contain some contrasting notes to help define the rose scent against the contrast. This perfume is a conservative, not very exciting, natural rose that is unisex or slightly feminine. First time I wore Eau Capitale, by spouse said to me, "you smell like an old lady, please take that off!"

I am reluctant to review Eau Capitale with a thumbs down because I the like the brand and also I collect Diptyque fragrances. However, when compared to eight other rose fragrances in my collection, I find every one preferred over this Eau Capitale, at least to my nose. I like rose scents but this one gets a reluctant rating: 5 of 10 stars, and I can not recommend this scent to anyone but the most hard core rose lovers.

Interesting rose-animalic scent. Has the dirty rose thing going on, more like Declaration dun Soir than Rose 31. I prefer the Le Labo, so this is not my favorite kind of dirty rose. More of a medicinal rose. It's also far more fem than masculine, more "perfumy-flower" rose than the classy rose you get in some of those men's frags.

Projection is impressive. Longevity is also very good. A very good performer overall.

Eau Capitale by Diptyque (2019) is a stunning modern interpretation of the 80's animalic rose chypre, and sits somewhere between a classic example of one like Montana Parfum de Peau (1986) and the bigger-boned animalic rose patchouli chypres like Estée Lauder Knowing (1988) that also existed at the time. Of course, being as this is a completely 21st century perfume beholden not just to IFRA restrictions but also sensibilities of the market base, Eau Capitale is going to be extremely light on any animalic tones and contain only a speck of oakmoss (if any) in the structure. Ultimately, this proves fine to my nose, as I appreciate a subtle tease sometimes more than gratuity anyway, but to the hard-nosed vintage purist, this will probably prove insufficient. For everyone else, Eau Capitale is a bold rose chypre that is very faithful by design, but colors within the lines of what squeaks by the censure of the buying public or perfume industry itself, which isn't easy.

Eau Capitale opens with a lusciously jammy Turkish rose and bergamot, very similar to Ungaro Diva (1983). Perfumer Olivier Pescheux has really done his homework here and keeps this chypre accord alive by adding some pink pepper to the patchouli heart, which helps hide the synthetic wood accord that zips and zings about within the seams. The base has some synthetic musk with an animalic tone (probably civetone) dosed real low with evernyl backfill and some of that aforementioned wood accord which becomes the "chypre" of the whole thing in place of something like sandalwood or cedar. I can't tell if it's some mix of polysantal, javanol and cedral or something else because the blending is too good, but I get the sharp "woodiness" that slides alongside the "mossiness" and the "muskiness" of the base; these things take a nose used to older specimens to familiar territory by proxy, but not with 100% accuracy. Wear time is good for an eau de parfum, and sillage is not verbose like an 80's perfume, but this is beautiful nonetheless.

Fans of modern rose perfumes really haven't had better outside maybe an expensive bottle of Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (2010) or a nice taif rose perfume from a Middle Eastern house, as most other niche perfumers seem focused on fresh "rose water" types like Maison Francis Kurkdjian's À la Rose (2014) if they're not playing with oud or patchouli. With Eau Capitale, Diptyque shows us that a "big" rose perfume without oud is still possible in these bleak times of aromachemical dependency and marketing department creative suffocation, although perfumistas used to the taste of vintage roses will find this homage to be a bridge too far in adulteration. I like me a nice no-holds-barred shoulderpadded Aqua Net hair tease of a rose perfume too, which is why I'll always love vintage Montana Parfum de Peau, but sometimes it can be a bit "extra" whereas something like this may scratch that same itch more discreetly. Oh well, I'm not going to split hairs here. This smells good. See for yourself. Thumbs up.

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