Guerlain (1927)


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Djedi by Guerlain

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Reviews of Djedi by Guerlain

There are 17 reviews of Djedi by Guerlain.

Notes- bergamot, aldehyde, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, orris, vetiver, civet, musk, oakmoss, amber , Black amber

This review is for the 1996 reissue. While it has been criticized for its lack of civit, I have added a drop of civit / 5 ml of juice (parfum) with excellent results. It is chiefly a sweet hay scent. The civit brings forward the vetiver and adds a leathery, earthy creaminess. Meanwhile the floral undertones weave a subtle web throughout. This is heady, amber with a leather finish. After it has mellowed there is a cement note that pervades. Cool and stony, almost yeasty, like baking bread in an ancient stone kitchen.

Deep, dark and haunting. The rose and Vetiver cling for hours. Overall, a golden sensation, like autumn.

One of the great leather chypres.

Others have likened this to Chanel's Cuir de Russie, which comparison I can't fault. I find it to be a pre-cursor for both Coty's A Suma and Lelong's Sirocco (both 1934). I also find a similarity to R&G's 1904 Cigalia.

Coal tar, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, ambergris, orris, oakmoss. So primarily and literally a base noter. There is a subtle soft floral combo of rose and jasmine that keep it from being totally made up of base notes.

I can't imagine a woman wearing this. It is totally masculine, very sophisticated, dark, sexy, animalic.

In a word, fabulous.

First Edit: I have just experienced a decant of "very old" Djedi and it has decomposed into pure immortelle, a note which never made it into any note tree of the first half of the 20th century, yet was used extensively in the perfume industry. Very interesting that what is left after many many decades is the burnt caramel/garum massala note that now is so prevalent in scent trees. So with vintage Djedi, one must proceed with caution. Ask for a sample decant before you purchase.

The fresher top notes are almost certainly gone in my vintage sample, so on me the opening is a dyad of civet and rose. The civet is soft, rounded and dark, natural and with a touch of sweetness that seamlessly blends with the dark sweetness of the Windsor-style rose in the background. The drydown presents with a harsher birch tar note, reminiscent of Creed's Cuir de Russie but now lacking its fresher components. A raw, dark-earthy Molinard-style raw vetiver then comes to the fore, which later on merges with a dark ands surprisingly soft patchouli. The overall tone is brooding and dark - age probably emphasises these elements.

Now to the base, where I initially get a brighter leather note - a bit like fresh chamois gloves, which later takes on a dark and honeyed character of old Veldtshoen that have been waxed recently. This honey is quite persistent throughout the base, where a sombre musk appears that is beautifully complimented by a gorgeously natural and archetypical oak moss as backbone of this phase.

The performance is magnificent: moderate sillage with good projection, and a sheer amazing longevity of thirteen hours on my skin, albeit for the last four hours very close to my skin.

Apparently Jacques Guerlain was inspired by Egypt when he created Djedi. Whilst, of course, no fragrance can even dream to do justice to one of the greatest cultures in human history, this fragrance is one of the great oriental leather chypres of the last hundred years.

Well, I'm having a totally different experience from the others here...I got my sample from theperfumedcourt and I'm not entirely certain if it's the reissue or the original-formula since it's not labelled "Vintage" but either way this smells very good. It smells almost like some sweet food I ate years and years ago and I can't recall exactly what food it was. I think that's the sandalwood, oakmoss, and vetiver making an unexpected syrupy almost cinnamon-like accord (natural warm cinnamon, not the ground-up spicy stuff in the spice aisle.) Others on that-site-that's-trying-to-be-Basenotes have mentioned the same syrup sweetness so at least I'm not the only one in the world. There are some florals but they're not distinct to me. In the background I get occasional whiffs of leather and slight mustiness, but in my opinion I think the fragrance would be better if those notes were stronger to cut some of the syrupy scent.

Djedi is a bit more linear than other Guerlains I've tried, but it certainly does travel from a unique beginning to a nice soft end. There's a touch of Guerlinade peeking through but then again I knew what to look for. It's more subtle an accord than in many of their other fragrances. Djedi is also very long-lasting on me, as all Guerlains seem to be with my chemistry, and seems like it projects well.

Overall as others have said this is a remarkable scent, very unlike anything else out there (haven't tried the oft-compared Onda but I can't imagine it being even close to identical based on the note pyramid). This is a smell to wear just for yourself. It's not for wearing to work, it's not even for wearing around your husband or wife, at least in my opinion, unless you choose to wear it together in a bizarre bonding moment. I'm glad to try it but it's like a book that I can finish, glad to have the unique experience, but not unhappy to die having read it only once.

NOW, I know what everyone's been talking about: Djedi is unlike any other fragrance I've ever experienced, bar none. I won't rhapsodize on the elements of this fragrance; the folks below have done so eloquently.

What I will share are my associations to this fragrance: When I was a small child, I ventured away from a family picnic on a bright, crystal clear ,hot summer day. I was probably three years old at the time and before I was brought back to my family, I had ventured under a telephone pole with bright, sparkling-blue insulator caps and the steamy smell of creosote pervaded that spot; it was a joyful and yet melancholy moment for me and Djedi took me back there in an instant.

But, Djedi goes even further for me: Djedi is primal and limbic to the core; I can see why people have such intense reactions to this fragrance; I believe my reactions are less about my childhood memory and more about an olfactory archetype. I think this fragrance evokes the deepest fears, hopes and dreams of my childhood and...before that. That is why it is both strange and familiar to me; comforting and disturbing; joyful and morbid. Djedi is like the "Lucy" and "Ginko tree" of scent; it feels like the progenitor of later scents.

And if you want to trace a direct line offspring, follow this: Dejedi of 1927 bore Vetiver (J P Guelain) in 1961. After you have experienced Dejedi, Vetiver seems downright tame.

In the top I get some hesperidic notes that havent withstood the passing of time very well, then, vaguely, a sharply green note that might be oakmoss or vetiver. Mostly, however, the scent is dry and smoky in a way that reminds me of the smell of wool. It feels dense and flat and muted - it stays very close to the skin with non-existent sillage and doesn't develop much over time either. It's like it never warms or blossoms on my skin. I'm sad to say it doesn't do much for me and although it was interesting to smell I'm not as sorry it's discontinued as a lot of people are. In the interest of dosclosure, though, I only have a tiny sample and it might be better sprayed.

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