Like a Victorian home that has been through many families. There is birth, love, dreams, death, a flurry of memories... Happy, sad, painful. This fragrance is the breath you draw in. Dioressence is a real classic beauty. It reminds me of those wonderful chypre and oakmoss creations with that unmistakable vintage elegance. A little Jolie Madame, a little Givenchy III. Glamorous and alluring. It goes from executive decisions in the morning to a theater function in the evening, before winding in an underground club.
Opening with a minor avalanche of sparkling insecticide aldehydes, overflowing oakmosses are next, beating out a baseline with a patchouli that will last the entire tune through. The melody itself is carried from the off by a charming, dry, somewhat spicy carnation that is filled in the heart by a string section of flowers with some support from attendant aromatics. The long dry down, so typical of Dior, sees a smoky vetiver and amber. In short seductive mossy oakmoss rules at first then, like a curtain being raised, the spice and flowers start to insinuate themselves. So subtle, yet intriguing. Like a woman you want to discover.
Luca Turin writes that Dioressence has been through multiple versions and rates it between four and two stars. The bottle I have isn’t the version shown in the picture above but one from 1995, a ribbed column in a blue mosaic box. The juice is an uneasy balance of resiny orange chypre and milky amber, and we all know that milk and orange don’t mix.
I have no idea what the original Dioressence, or any of its subsequent reformulations, smelled like. Nor do I care. Because what is wafting up from my wrist right now, from a bottle purchased from Saks just days ago, smells absolutely fantastic.
I struggle to express just how happy these kinds of outsized, kitchen-sink green/chypre/orientals make me. Spraying them instantly tunes the world right up to eleven, eradicating with a great big "hell yes" yop every single scolding voice that pushes for attenuation and restraint.
Screw that. I'm in the mood for clearing elevators.
My review is for recent incarnation, poss from 2016.
I want to like this as on paper its just up my alley but it is almost too overpowering for my tastes. Its a big patchouli bomb.If I spray very lightly I can just about get away with it and there are elements that I love but I think there is a bit of vanilla and too much of something else I can't place in the drydown,its compelling but a bit repellent at the same time.Will persevere as I blind bought a big bottle.
I did put some in the rinse water when I hand washed a silk scarf the other week and its smells lovely on the fabric so maybe that's the way to go with this baby!
Green, how I want you green.
Green wind. Green branches.
The ship out on the sea
and the horse on the mountain.
With the shade around her waist
she dreams on her balcony,
green flesh, her hair green,
with eyes of cold silver.
Green, how I want you green.
Under the gypsy moon,
all things are watching her
and she cannot see them.