Dior Homme Parfum is one of the designer releases of the last few years that I really loved from first wear and came really close to purchasing, but always postponed doing so to a later date thinking it'd be there whenever I'd be ready. I'd get to wear it every few months passing through a department store or an airport. Then it was discontinued, then covid and next thing you know I couldn't find it anywhere and I felt as I did when Sycomore edt went, regretful.
I was lamenting when giving my impressions on Zegna Iris Florentine earlier this year that I hadn't encountered a masculine Iris centric fragrance that had the 70s 80s vintage treatment.
DHP is not it sadly, but by toning down the sweetness of DHI, upping the rose a bit (almost if not a la Egoiste) and adding a good amount of an almost IsoQuinolic leather we somewhat get in the vicinity. Don't get me wrong, the base is still heavy on "amberwoods" and not nearly as striking as the first third of the wear but I enjoy it and I guess I don't smell as "old man" as usual (not that I care).
I did managed to get me that long postponed bottle in the end. Quite happy, as I see it now going for 400 plus bucks on the net.I can't really make out the status of DHP, discontinued,75ml limited to Europe I don't know.
Good, but not amazing. Nicely done, but ultimately not as good as the original Dior Homme.
While the original Dior Homme registers to me as mostly iris brightened with violet and warmed with vanilla and suede, the Parfum smells to me like the focus is shifted to the leathery vanilla. It's a bit animalic, while the iris is relegated to a small supporting role. It's perfectly fine, if not as wondrous as the original, but I feel like it kind of falls apart in the base, where a terpine tonka and smooth pink pepper wrap the vanilla in an unsatisfying clash of rough and fuzzy with just enough cheapness showing through to guarantee that this isn't as good as the practically perfect original version.
Don't get me wrong - in a universe full of smell-alike aquatics and candy garbage, this still merits an enthusiastic thumbs up, but I'd stick with the original.
Easily the most interesting of the Dior Homme men's line, but definitely not the best.
This takes the exotic part of DHI, and the practicality of DH, mixes them together, adds more depth, more unique, and definitely more intense. This should really be called Dior Homme Intense, because it doesn't have much DHI in it, it's more of an intense version of DH.
The opening.. it's loud, very strong, very potent. It's like a full bodied Dior Homme, with a sweetness that I get from DHI, but I don't really get any cocoa here. It's more of a Rochas Man sweetness, like a vanilla/tonka combination.. I think because I am so used to DHI, I wanna say it smells like cocoa, but it really doesn't, at all. The middle is where it starts to get weird. A noticeable rose note creeps in, but it's not that nice jammy rose I'm used to, it's more of a old school rose, feminine smelling rose. The only other fragrance I own that reminds me of the same rose note, is Calligraphy Rose, with a rose/saffron combo, that's what it smells like. It then gets smokey, very, very smokey, so smokey that it started to smell like grilled barbecued meats (if you know the infamous bbq meat smell from Voyage d'Hermes, and Sel Marin - also the cocoa fragrance from Slumberhouse - not sure the name). It sort of becomes a turn off for a good hour through the middle. A couple hours past, I am left with a fantastic vanilla and iris dry down. Iris, in the base?? Works for me! The iris here comes off the same as it does in many other men's iris fragrances, as more of orris root, than iris flower itself, creating a woody sort of smell. Ambrette adds a boozy, oak barrel sort of whisky-ish and oud like note. Every time I have smelled this note of ambrette, I think of a very subtle oud, mixed with some sort of boozy aroma.. but it's usually more of just a faint oud. Add it all up, and the dry down is fantastic here, probably the best dry down out of all the Dior Homme's, but not the best overall.
To me, it isn't worth seeking out, with how rare it is to find in the US market. It's literally just a stronger Dior Homme with a different dry down, and big hit of grilled meats in the middle. Maybe the middle will grow on me. The positives outweigh the negatives for me, enough to warrant a thumbs up review, but I doubt I will spring for a bottle. I will enjoy this sample I have, and see if my perception changes with future wearings.
After wearing this more.. I am not particularly fond of it. The rose is too dry and smokey. The BBQ meats smell lasts way too long, during most of the beginning and all of the middle of the scent, it makes it unappealing to me, and also being as strong as it is, it's hard to avoid this smell. I almost don't like this one at all.. but the first 15 minutes, and the last few hours make are redeeming. Overall though, it's certainly not worth seeking out, with how hard it is to find. It's like a mix of DHI and Calligraphy Rose, or maybe even the old school Tea Rose fragrance from Perfumer's Workshop.
Sorry for this review being more of a brainstorm, than an actual well though out reviewed, I must have revisited it several times, and just added to, or changed something. In due time I will give this another full wearing and finalize my thoughts with an affirmative review. This review/summary was however based on 4 full wearings, but I usually like to do 5 as a personal thing before writing a review.
Dior Homme Parfum (2014) is another example of Dior house perfumer François Demachy trying to wrestle and come to terms with the original Dior Homme (2005) structure made by Olivier Polge under creative direction of Hedi Slimane. Demachy functions both as house perfumer for Dior and creative director of cosmetics and perfumes for all of parent LVMH, and he has seemed content not to mess with the legacy creations of perfumers before him like Edmond Roudnitska's oeuvre or other classics like Poison (1985) and Fahrenheit (1988), except where bringing them into IFRA compliance is necessary, but he has endlessly tinkered with the DNA of Dior Homme since coming on board, showing some level of unrest he has with it. Huge Dior Homme-o-Philes track every iterative formula change and packaging change in minute detail, and their original research has produced much evidence of this unrest, from all the do-overs on Dior Homme Cologne (2007) and Dior Homme Sport (2008), to the various tweaks made both to Dior Homme since taking the formula "in house", and the alternate concentrations he made from scratch like Dior Homme Intense (2007) and this parfum version. Even the odd Dior Homme Eau (2014) seemed like Demachy was wrestling some inner demon found within the iris ionone of the Dior Homme DNA put forth by Polge, meaning it was no surprise when he just finally threw it away when launching the rebooted Dior Homme (2020) as a "nü-chypre" with a mid-century citrus accord wrapped around a modern woods and dry patchouli core. Dior Homme Parfum was destined for unicorn status among the Homme faithful, as the original 75ml release was limited edition from the start, and the newer 100ml re-issue bottles hotly contested both pre and post 2020 package changes (being separate formulas in their eyes), meaning diving in can feel like swimming with the sharks on this one. That being said, you're in for more of the same if you're already familiar with the line, and if you're not, then you're in for a doozy.
Dior Homme Parfum is yet another iterative revision of the core iris/cocoa/leather/sandalwood structure that sent people either running for the hills in 2005, or running into the arms of sales associates looking for their fix. There was little middle ground with the original genderbend masterpiece of Dior Homme, and the same proves true here. Demachy created a sweeter and more gourmand-focused fragrance with Dior Homme Intense, but reversed those steps with the Parfum, delivering something darker, drier, and marginally more masculine. Dior Homme Parfum backs away the furthest from the iconic iris note, but it is still certainly there, so people on the fence about it in the other forms may actually be able to handle it here if the rest of the fragrance suits them. The biggest shift beyond that is the switch out from lavender to Turkish rose absolutes in the heart, with the cardamom sticking around. Switching in a dark rose for the lavender has this huge deepening floral affect on Dior Homme Parfum that makes the niche noses go gaga for it, hence all the passionate throws and histrionics online (outside the limited distribution fear-of-missing-out frenzy), coupled with a base where the leather and ambrette dominate over a smooth vanilla, cocoa, and sandalwood. Green vetiver from the original and the patchouli is switched out for smokier and isolate types respectively that adds thickness to the finish, turning Dior Homme Parfum into this dark chocolatey black leather smokey monster with wisps of the waxy iris floating about and minimal powder. Dior Homme Parfum is keyed to be way more sensual and "bad boy" than the rest of the line, which is likely why so many enthusiasts love this as their date night weapon, and longevity is well beyond anything you'd ever need in a fragrance at over 12+ hours. Projection is contentious between batches but what I sampled was at least as good as the Intense version, so I can't speak to the flucuations. Suggested use is obviously evening and cooler weather, but because Dior Homme Parfum is more dark chocolate than milk chocolate, it may be dry enough to see use in spring or early summer at night as well.
In a nutshell: did you still like gourmands into the mid 2010's when this was released? Did you like the original Dior Homme? If yes to either or both, then chances are you like this too. If you never understood the whole shebang to begin with, this flanker wasn't for you and you're likely happier with the newest 2013 version of Dior Homme Cologne and the newest Dior Homme. I have a feeling that was the point of all these takes on the original: Demachy just wasn't happy with it, and it didn't sell enough for the bean counters, but the fanbase was known to be hardcore, so he tried and tried some more for over a decade until he couldn't stand it and here we are. That Dior Homme Parfum was kept on the books alongside a tweaked Dior Homme Intense is proof that Demachy wants all parties happy, only giving the EdT the axe in most territories while purging the failed "Eau" flanker entirely, although I wouldn't be surprised to see it and the "Sport" nameplates re-used for scents closer to the 2020 Dior Homme if they aren't already by the time you read this. Dior Homme Parfum is the ultimate take of the infamous "iris lipstick" accord for many male Dior fans because it has the most blended-down iris, offers the best performance, and concentrates what is universally loved among all Dior Homme fans about the scent profile overall. I still prefer the Olivier Polge-penned EdT and its later Demachy adaptations as a hallmark of the 2000's, but I can completely respect the work that was done here to take the scent to its most-masculine extreme. As for all the batch frenzy and vitriolic drama you see surrounding Dior Homme Parfum on social media and some forums, plus all the outrageous gouging going on for various bottlings of the stuff, I can only say that there are lots of angry solipsistic guys out there glued to their Office Depot desk chairs enabling that, so if that isn't you, I'd just find the best deal on a sample or full bottle and make your call then and there, rather than second guessing whether you got the "real deal" or not, because life is just too short. Thumbs up.
EDIT: Something has "clicked", and now I don't mind iris that much anymore, especially in Dior Homme. Over the past few weeks I've found myself coming back to my sample. Sadly, my opinion has changed just as it now appears to be discontinued. Was able to get a small decant that I'll save for special occasions. Changing from neutral to positive.
I must just have a personal aversion to iris. Almost every iris scent I've smelled has had an unpleasant opening to me, a smell reminiscent of mothballs. Yet, others seem to like it and I wouldn't dare take it from them.
Dior Homme Parfum on the other hand could almost convert me. I still get a bit of that waxy unpleasantness right away, but after a few minutes it cools down into something really nice. Not only that, I can tell that the iris is still there, but the qualities I dislike about it get masked by the heavier notes as they come in. To me this is only ok, I don't see a need to work though the opening to get to the rest of it, so I don't think I'll ever get a bottle. But I can see why everyone else loves it! I can only imagine that if you did like iris this would be an amazing scent.