La Parfumerie Moderne (2014)

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Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne

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About Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne

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La Parfumerie Moderne
Fragrance House

Désarmant is a shared scent launched in 2014 by La Parfumerie Moderne

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Reviews of Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne

There are 5 reviews of Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne.

Stardate 20171026:

Have you heard the one about "Ylang, Orange, Styrax and lilac go to a bar".
Well neither have I and there is a reason for it.
They just don't work well together.
There are flashes of a good fragrance but they don't stick.
The styrax up top just messes up the whole thing.

Too confusing and lacks direction.

What an inebriating classy fresh creation is it!!! Muskiness, radiant-bright floral grassiness and resinous soapiness are in here (by a modern cleaner approach) provided with the top level of neo-classic grandeur. La Parfumerie Moderne Desarmant strikes me immediately with its flashback of something classically musky-chypre and aristocratically floral. Yes, a jump back at time of my youth with its huge background of floral-chypre conjurations waving helter skelter on my nostalgic mind. I detect in here elements reporting in my mind scents a la Ysl Paris (the effervescent general green-floral sense of hyper class and the musky/aldehydic/honeyed soapiness balancing the initial angularity of bitter leaves and grass), the more recent Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition (a similar structure, a marked ylang-ylang's presence, a similar musky-rosey-powdery dominance anyway finally mastered by an iris/violet royal presence) or Giorgio Armani Onde Mystere (rose, ylang-ylang, musk, laundriness, resins). There is anyway probably something far more familiar in the air which I'm not unfortunately able in this moment to connect to this Corticchiato's piece of hyper refined vegetal-musky floral. Lilac, osmanthus and rose are heady and royal in here, providing a general sense of freshly-musky floral courtisan refinement. Rose (probably connected to hints of benzoin and frankincense) provides a tad of fresh subtle soapiness while the muskiness is waving all around, supported by vegetal grassy patterns and well modulated resins. Gradually a sort of dry-fresh darker ambery/honeyed powder starts taking the stage with a role of co-protagonist (even supported by this magnificent fresh floral bouquet basically mastered by the supreme elegance of trio rose/lilac/osmanthus). There is a general sense of musky-incensey-rosey (soapy) "neutrality" which I've yet detected in Onde Mystere and in several fresh musky floral parisian accords of the past. This musky-floral neutrality is supported by a dominant ylang-ylang (really notable in here) sapiently flanked (by the alchemic work of an insuperable connoisseur of classic perfumery like Corticchiato) to musky resins and florals in order to project all around a supreme level of neo-classic sophistication. Ylang-ylang (supported by exotic spices) enhances this widespread sense of soapy-cosmetical dreamy subtleness. I appreciate the specific realistic projection of each single note (to me easily noticeable as individual part of a perfectly orchestrated soapy-musky-floral composition). Yes, each single note seems clear in its peculiarity but as part of an harmonious amalgam. I detect in here as well the Corticchiato's landmark musky association of rose and osmanthus we've admired in Osmanthus Interdite but while in that accord the "fluidy" freshness seemed mostly provided by a green-tea's presence in here you can detect mostly this fresh accord of musk, lymphatic-leafy floral presences and resins. The final issue is simply gorgeous, devoted to tradition (classic, measured, lofty and luxurious) but at same time surprisingly modern, radiant and joyful. Highly recommended.

Perhaps one of the best lilac fragrances I have had the pleasure of smelling. It is every bit as disarming as the name suggests.

The story behind the scent is a tiny vial of perfume that the founder of La Parfumerie Moderne, Philippe Neirinck, came across one day in the Royal Picardy Hotel in Le Touquet when he was a small boy, in the 60's. The smell of this unmarked vial of perfume haunted him until he met Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the perfumer behind Parfum d'Empire, and commissioned him to create the perfume he still smelled in his head.

Who knows what the mystery perfume was, or if it even contained lilac? Philippe seems to think so, since this is a lilac-focused perfume. I have another theory….but first to Desarmant.

The opening of Desarmant smells like the fruity, wet-paint undertones of true lilac blossoms – a gorgeous, full smell that reminds one that flowers can smell both of themselves, authentically, and also of household things like latex paint, sticky tape, rubber tubing (hello tuberose!) and lemon Pledge (hello every single Taif rose!). It is a true-to-life lilac note, so outrageously so that I laugh out loud.

But this isn't some one-trick-pony. Desarmant takes that wet-paint lilac note and mills it through a kaleidoscope of other notes that somehow just add to the beauty of the lilac without detracting from it – oranges, black tea leaves, apricot, a faint lipstick wax note, apple peels, and a liquorish note, like apricot schnapps. It somehow reminds me of the exuberance of I Miss Violet in all its fruity, tannic, over-the-top fun. Both are fragrances that make me feel like I could tip back my head and drink them; they seem delicious to me. It might be the osmanthus note that I find so compelling in both.

The heart section of Desarmant is all about building a dark, slightly sharp suede layer to ground and anchor those flighty floral notes up top. The austere leather note – styrax perhaps – reminds me of another fragrance from La Parfumerie Moderne, namely Cuir X, which is something I've developed a mild obsession with. The slightly bitter suede is needed here, for gravitas.

Desarmant evolves even further in the basenotes, morphing into a heavy floral musk with a hint of something animalic like ambergris or civet. It is slightly green-inflected now, as if there is sun-dried hay mixed into the musk. It is at this stage that I am surprised to draw a clear parallel between the drydown of Joy Eau de Parfum and Desarmant – they are practically twins, with their sharp, slightly nostalgic floral musk and complex textures.

The Patous, especially 1000 and Joy, as well as the old Dioressence, all share a certain green, pungent floralcy, almost old-fashioned/grandmotherly, that hides a rip-roaringly animalic streak in their tail. That this duality is present to a degree in the drydown of Desarmant makes me wonder if the perfume that Philippe Neirinck smelled all those years ago was, in fact, Joy? Or perhaps it was 1000, with its dusty, greenish osmanthus note, casting its vintage-era, peachy glow over the other florals.

On my skin the initial impression is floral - mainly ylang-ylang and lilac, and the ylang-ylang soon takes over. The combination works very well, and an added richness is provided by a lovely cinnamon.

In the drydown a very pleasant vanilla arises, but later on it turns harsher and edgier. There is styrax evident in the mix, as is a strong benzoin note, and this interplay constitutes the core theme of the base notes. At times a nigh oud-dy hint comes up, whilst on other occasion I reminders of an oak-mossy nature, made smoother by the vanilla note.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity and amazing fifteen hours.

Made of good-quality ingredients and well-blended, this is an autumnal-wintery scent with a crispy edge. 3.25/5.

Smells like grandma? Not if it's Mirren, first name Helen.

Lilac notes can be a little tricky. Too much of it and one could easily be reminded of cheap talcs or baby powder. Thankfully in Désarmant I get none of those, with the lilac wonderfully disarmed by a dose of ylang ylang and orange. Quality is perceptibly top-notch, nothing cheap-smelling here as far as my nose can tell.

After the luxuriant opening Désarmant quickly recedes to a more modest projection mode though it remains faintly floral with just a dusting of powder. While I have absolutely no qualms over wearing this supposedly 'unisex' fragrance, I fear it might be a touch fusty for the average guy.

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